FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

So tonight I decide to put the shiny and clean EXUP replacement parts that Rage sold me on my bike. This, of course, requires removing the header from the bike. All that goes well with the exception of one rusted bolt. Anyway get the header back in and i'm tightening the last nut and BAM!! The stud breaks. Fun times I tell you. So how easy or hard is it to replace the stud?

i broke two of mine. just did nothing and it's worked fine for months. i don't remember exactly but i think they looked like they were pressed in not threaded so pretty hard.

bike bandit shows them as threaded on both ends so they should be replacable , when it broke off did it break off flush or is there some left ? if there's still some sticking out i would suggest a pair of vice grips . if it's broken off flush it'll require a little more work (either drilling or welding something to it so you can turn it back out ) but either way it shouldn't be too hard to replace .

studs are easy to replace. You can get them fairly inexpensively from a dealer if you want. Now if you broke them off inside it could be a little more difficult. This happened with the exhaust studs on my dad's zephyr and the bolt extractor we used didn't do the job. We finally had to pull the engine and take it to a machine shop to get it drilled out.

It's threaded in. Some WD 40 and vise grips had it out in 5 minutes. Replaced it with a bolt that I had that was the same size and thread pitch. I even went ahead and removed that mess of an Air injection system (there for emissions) that was there too (and found out 3 of the 4 connecting pipes were even connected). Makes it alot easier to change the oil. Got a practically brand new EXUP servo and header valve parts from Rage. Rebuilt and lubed my EXUP valve in the header. Doing all this made a BIG difference in how the bike runs. I thought my valves were toast because it always seemed to have that "tick" that denotes valve work would be needed. Removing the emissions stuff caused that tick to go away. I still plan on at least checking them and shimming as needed. The bike doesn't sound like it's miss firing anymore either. Seems to have kind of "woke up". I can only imagine how it'll be when i go through carbs and do my version of the coil mod (hint..i won't be using a ford coil).

What are you planning on using? I bought a Dodge Neon coil with the intent of trying that out but the coil was DOA. All I needed was wires and I figured out you can replace them on these coils but it is a pain. I broke two of the wires off on the spare dead set of coils I had trying to get them out so I opted not to try on my working coils. I just sleeved the wires with some vinyl tubing that fit over top and now my arcing problems are fixed.

But I am curious about your plans.

Luke-a-Tron wrote:What are you planning on using? I bought a Dodge Neon coil with the intent of trying that out but the coil was DOA. All I needed was wires and I figured out you can replace them on these coils but it is a pain. I broke two of the wires off on the spare dead set of coils I had trying to get them out so I opted not to try on my working coils. I just sleeved the wires with some vinyl tubing that fit over top and now my arcing problems are fixed.

But I am curious about your plans.

A suburu imprezza coil has a compact design so that's what i plan on using. Also has a female harness plug with a few inches of wire attached to it as well. My goal is to use it with the stock air box and a stage 1 kit in the carbs. Hopefully, given the amount of miles on my motor, it runs good and doesn't blow up. If i can source an F2 radiator that will be even better and will clear up under the tank cover even more. All this won't happen until after i go through the carbs though. That's the first priority. This winter is gonna be fun.

Be careful the primary resistance is in the same neighborhood as the stock setup. If it's too low you'll burn out your CDI and they're hard to come by without spending some change.