FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi guys,

So I went to a shop and they had a "Factory Carburetor Recalibration Kit Yamaha FZR " for $95.Part # CRB-Y271.. I'm just wondering if it's the same kit as the one at http://www.factorypro.com ?? Since I don't know anything much about carbs they charge $240 with labor and the carb kit. Getting ripped off?? Better off installing it myself? If I get one of those kits , and the emulsion tubes the bike should run like a champ , right?

I sure that I'm running rich because i put a Yoshi slipon the bike and it's very bad at idle.It starts and idles fine around 1200 rpms. It seems like it chokes untill i hit rev it up to 4000 rpms. I'm planning on getting a K&N filter. Will that make it leaner because more airflow ?? The bike only has 8500 miles on it so i'm confused..

Phew i'm confused..

If you guys managed to read all of it without getting bored , you rock..

Haha, thanks for any enlightment..

Before you go and dump $240 on a jet kit and installation I would consider getting your carbs synced. That should at most be 1 hour worth of labor at your local bike shop. Typically a slip-on only will not materially change a motor's performance, a full exhaust system will but not normally just a slip-on. Idle for most of these bike is 1200-1500 they hate it below these levels for whatever reason. If the bike sounds like its choking, is it only when the motor is cold? Again these motors are cold blooded and do kind of puke on themselves/stumble until they are up to operating temperatures.

Most jet kits will not included emulsion tubes so you might have to buy those in addtion to the jet kit. At 8500 miles I wouldn't think your emulsion tubes are that worn. If you do put a K&N filter in you will definately have to adjust your air screws because it will lean out the a/f mixture since you are diluting the fuel with more air.

When were the spark plugs and air filter changed last and what is your current milage? Old plugs and a dirty air filter can produce the same symptoms that you are describing and fuel economy can also be another indicator of the same.

+1 on what M said.

M240 rebuit with a jet kit that's pretty cheap. I'm thinking its just a gasket and o rings.I'm in Detroit and they quoted me 400 and jet kit separate. God I wish someone from the board was within 100 miles and knew how todo it . Or help me . ! For 240 w kit I'd do it. Just because it be worth it. My time to money ratio IMO

M in KC wrote:Before you go and dump $240 on a jet kit and installation I would consider getting your carbs synced. That should at most be 1 hour worth of labor at your local bike shop. Typically a slip-on only will not materially change a motor's performance, a full exhaust system will but not normally just a slip-on. Idle for most of these bike is 1200-1500 they hate it below these levels for whatever reason. If the bike sounds like its choking, is it only when the motor is cold? Again these motors are cold blooded and do kind of puke on themselves/stumble until they are up to operating temperatures.

Most jet kits will not included emulsion tubes so you might have to buy those in addtion to the jet kit. At 8500 miles I wouldn't think your emulsion tubes are that worn. If you do put a K&N filter in you will definately have to adjust your air screws because it will lean out the a/f mixture since you are diluting the fuel with more air.

When were the spark plugs and air filter changed last and what is your current milage? Old plugs and a dirty air filter can produce the same symptoms that you are describing and fuel economy can also be another indicator of the same.

The bike is choking at the operating temperature. When it's cold it seems to work a little better.
The insane thing is that I removed the air filter , ran it like that and it runs perfect. I should have my K&N filter sometime this week and I'll see what happens , because I don't want to run it without one.
I changed the sparkplugs 2 days ago , and the filter looked knew. I just blew it with air.
Do you have to remove the carbs to adjust the air screws?? Everything is stock..
Thanks for your help

PIMPMYFZR wrote:M240 rebuit with a jet kit that's pretty cheap. I'm thinking its just a gasket and o rings.I'm in Detroit and they quoted me 400 and jet kit separate. God I wish someone from the board was within 100 miles and knew how todo it . Or help me . ! For 240 w kit I'd do it. Just because it be worth it. My time to money ratio IMO

I put a stage 3 dynojet kit with individual k&n air filters about 3 months ago, with that and the yosh pipe it sounds amazing. Just rolling on the throttle a hair and letting off the clutch some at a stoplight so i move forward slowly gives me this amazingly sexy sounding lope, i get chills and smile every time. anyway, if I lived near you i'd jet them for $150 ish if you bought the kit, i did an intense cleaning on mine and synched them too. i do this type stuff for a living, so it's nothing for me, i kinda like carbs. but $400 is insane, what's the hourly shop rate there? Hawaii isn't even that much.

yamaboy wrote:
The insane thing is that I removed the air filter , ran it like that and it runs perfect. I should have my K&N filter sometime this week and I'll see what happens , because I don't want to run it without one.

if it runs good without a filter box, then just do what i did and get individual air filters, i forget what the k&n part number was, but let me know if you decide to go that route and i'll look it up in my inbox.

yamaboy wrote: Do you have to remove the carbs to adjust the air screws?? Everything is stock..
Thanks for your help

no, you should have little gray things about the size of a pencil eraser near the bottom of the float bowl, drill out that CAREFULLY (screws are beneath that) then adjust the a/f mixture, just be sure to spin them all the way in and count the turns before you adjust them. that way you can at least return them to the way they were if it doesn't work out.

hi,
I hope you bought the single K & N not pods or you are going to spend alot of time tuning the bike rather than riding

Get the carbs synched first , then add fresh plugs properly gapped NOT out the box into the bike.
ride it and then pull the plugs to see how she is on jets.

If you do not know how to read plugs look at:-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/jennings/spark.html[*]

for a full how to that can be saved as a PDF and printed for reference

yamaha_george wrote:hi,
I hope you bought the single K & N not pods or you are going to spend alot of time tuning the bike rather than riding

Get the carbs synched first , then add fresh plugs properly gapped NOT out the box into the bike.
ride it and then pull the plugs to see how she is on jets.

If you do not know how to read plugs look at:-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/jennings/spark.html[*]

for a full how to that can be saved as a PDF and printed for reference

Yeah I bought the single K&N .. It's not here yet . I did get new plugs and gapped them at 030 mm . I noticed after a while when I took them out that cylinders 1& 2 plugs looked a little burned and 3 & 4 looked clean.(the center piece is really white). Maybe I'm too lean now.
Thanks

match417 wrote:

yamaboy wrote:
The insane thing is that I removed the air filter , ran it like that and it runs perfect. I should have my K&N filter sometime this week and I'll see what happens , because I don't want to run it without one.

if it runs good without a filter box, then just do what i did and get individual air filters, i forget what the k&n part number was, but let me know if you decide to go that route and i'll look it up in my inbox.

yamaboy wrote: Do you have to remove the carbs to adjust the air screws?? Everything is stock..
Thanks for your help

no, you should have little gray things about the size of a pencil eraser near the bottom of the float bowl, drill out that CAREFULLY (screws are beneath that) then adjust the a/f mixture, just be sure to spin them all the way in and count the turns before you adjust them. that way you can at least return them to the way they were if it doesn't work out.

I'll let you know this weekend if i get that damn K&N filter.
Are you talking about the Main air jet , because I couldn't find the little gray things. If I remove the airbox , I should see them , right?? If anyone has a "how to" with pictures that would help a ton. Don't want to drill something else because I only have one shot at it..

Thanks

match417 wrote:

PIMPMYFZR wrote:M240 rebuit with a jet kit that's pretty cheap. I'm thinking its just a gasket and o rings.I'm in Detroit and they quoted me 400 and jet kit separate. God I wish someone from the board was within 100 miles and knew how todo it . Or help me . ! For 240 w kit I'd do it. Just because it be worth it. My time to money ratio IMO

I put a stage 3 dynojet kit with individual k&n air filters about 3 months ago, with that and the yosh pipe it sounds amazing. Just rolling on the throttle a hair and letting off the clutch some at a stoplight so i move forward slowly gives me this amazingly sexy sounding lope, i get chills and smile every time. anyway, if I lived near you i'd jet them for $150 ish if you bought the kit, i did an intense cleaning on mine and synched them too. i do this type stuff for a living, so it's nothing for me, i kinda like carbs. but $400 is insane, what's the hourly shop rate there? Hawaii isn't even that much.

Damn , I wish you'd live near me 2. The hourly rate is $70. If I just get the factory pro jet kit and the emulsion tubes , is it pretty much straightforward?? Do they come with any instructions??
Thanks

P.S Yeah I know what you mean.. especially when I go under bridges and jump on it , it screams..Yoshi is the best...My friend has the RS5 on his NINJA.. WOW is all I can say!!

yamaboy....

here's one of the pictures that I took when i jetted my carbs, i took pictures of EVERYTHING when i did mine... I also included my other picture with the individual filters..just because it's sexy... Basically, the air fuel mixture screw is in the cylindrical shaped part that the float bowl curves around. There is a little gray thing that is stuck inside it, just drill that out and adjust away. In the first picture it is in the back middle of the carbs, i drilled my caps out, yours might have caps in it that are flush with the top of the little cylinder. In the second picture they are in the front middle of the carbs more toward the right. And in the 3rd pic they are in the middle on the bottom facing the camera, the float bowl is just in the way at this angle.

There are several carb shots that I took and put in the GALLERY under 600 >> Carbs

yamaboy wrote: Damn , I wish you'd live near me 2. The hourly rate is $70. If I just get the factory pro jet kit and the emulsion tubes , is it pretty much straightforward?? Do they come with any instructions??
Thanks

I don't know about the factory pro kit, we don't usually install many jet kits, we usually work on stuff because it isn't running or because the person failed the safety inspection and needs it to pass. The dynojet kit i put in mine came with complete instructions, and jetting is really simple anyway, just don't damage your diaphragms when you drill out your slide. I like doing this stuff, so if you have any questions let me know.

yamaboy wrote: P.S Yeah I know what you mean.. especially when I go under bridges and jump on it , it screams..Yoshi is the best...My friend has the RS5 on his NINJA.. WOW is all I can say!!

you should hear it with individuals on it, it sounds even better, i upgraded mine from a single k&n filter to the individuals..what a difference, even before i jetted it. but my air/fuel mix is off even though i followed the dynojet instructions on idle screw adjustment, just regular riding and idle is fine, but i can tell when i really crank on the throttle, so i'm not too worried about it, and my mpg is still low 40's.

And just incase anyone wants to know, my filters are KN-R-1060(R-1060) and they were $16 a piece through clubplug.net. They fit fine but you have to work with them a bit between carbs 1,2 and 3,4 as it is a tight fit.

yamaboy wrote:

match417 wrote:

yamaboy wrote:
T
I'll let you know this weekend if i get that damn K&N filter.
Are you talking about the Main air jet , because I couldn't find the little gray things. If I remove the airbox , I should see them , right?? If anyone has a "how to" with pictures that would help a ton. Don't want to drill something else because I only have one shot at it..

Thanks

Hi,
there was a carb "stickie" title was something like all you wanted to know about carbs (I'm off to Hospital so I have no chance to bookmark it & copy it here sorry)