FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi,
I currently finished painting my fairings for my bike , and now it runs really bad.It sat for about 2 weeks.
It has issues after it warms up but it starts and idles fine at around 1100RPMS. After a while it's scary to drive in traffic because i'm afraid someone will hit me from behind. I have to rev it up good when i start from a traffic light, and hold the clutch a little so it doesn't stall. After 2000-3000 rpms it runs great.(Mostly 1st gear) So pretty much it runs rough and want to die like it doesn't enough air. If I remove the airbox it seems to run much better. This is what I did and ran out of ideas.

Adjusted the idle to about 1500 than when I put the airbox back on , the idle dropped to about 1100 rpms
Adjusted the chain to about 25mm
After I took the airbox out , I sprayed air and used a fishing line to make sure that my jets are not clogged. When I blew air in the white "fittings" fuel came out spraying about a 2 feet in the air.
Lubed the slider springs
Removed , rebuild , and cleaned the fuel petcock ( it had a lot of crap in it)
Changed the fuel filter
Cleaned all of the fuel lines
Tommorow I need to hold each plug line by the valve cover to check for good spark , and replace my spark plugs . I currently have the NGK CR9E but they looked burned.

When I bought the bike the dealership said that they already did a full tuneup . Cleaning carbs , Carb Synchro , new air fuel filter.

If the sparkplugs/coild don't solve my problem I really give up. I'm really trying not to go into opening up my carbs but i guess i'll do it if I have to.
Emulsion tubes , and jets?? What do you guys recommend? Factory Pro?

By the way the only change that I did is put a Yoshi RS3 slipon on the bike. Based on the sparkplugs I guess i'm running rich , but that still doesn't justify why before it ran good and now really bad after it warms up..

I'm sorry for writing like 5 pages. Just wanted to get everything out of the way , and see if i missed anything.
Thanks for any feedback

WOW, that sounds like what happened to me.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1205
I ended up taking the carbs apart for a complete cleaning, new air filter, new plugs, and put the battery on the charger. It runs much better now but not sure which one actually fixed the problem.

davephipps wrote:WOW, that sounds like what happened to me.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1205
I ended up taking the carbs apart for a complete cleaning, new air filter, new plugs, and put the battery on the charger. It runs much better now but not sure which one actually fixed the problem.

I'm sure glad I found you..Try to remove the airbox and see if it runs better. I think this is my case because the bike is running very rich , so when I remove the airbox it makes it to run leaner. Too much fuel not enough air.. I'm really debating if I should get a K&N filter or not..it's like $53. Just don't want to spend money on something that won't benefit my bike.
Hmm. I did change the battery , so that should be out . Carb cleaning , K&N filter , and new plugs ..crap so much money ..
I'll let you know tommorow what happens..
Thanks again

The K&N is not much more expensive than the OEM air filter (40 bucks). You can get an aftermarket one from oldbikebarn.com for $18 though. Shipping might be worth it especially if you buy plugs too and don't mind the wait.
My bike is now accelleraring faster than it ever has. All I have left to do is dial in the idle. I hope yours gets solved this easilly too.

I have a new k&n that i'll sell you for $40 shipped.

Damn.. I wish I would've known that you are selling the K&N filter. I already paid to have it ordered and it was $53.I hope the air filter solves my problem because carbs are a pain in the butt to work with and a lot of money to get parts. Today I got new sparkplugs and also checked for spark. The spark is good , and it seems to work a little better .
By the way I've also adjusted the chain , and the people at the shop managed to break my little adjusting bracket on the left side. It's all good because I have another one at home and only paid $10 because they f.... up. I adjusted the chain 4 times and it was too loose , too tight...so I decided to take it to a shop for a dumbass..sorry professional to do it..

For those who are confused , it's 20-30 mm from the bottom of the chain. I got mine at 25mm . Here is a picture for a better understanding. You measure from the bottom of the chain pushing it down to the bottom of the chain pushing it up. Where the blue line is that's where your caliper/ruler should be.



I'll keep you guys updated
Thanks

P.S Never let other people work on your stuff. I learned my lesson

yamaboy wrote:P.S Never let other people work on your stuff. I learned my lesson

I thought I had ignition problems, and took my bike to the stealership. Turns out the carbs were gummed up from the previous owner letting it sit up for too long, and they were nice enough to clean the carbs and replace the spark plugs I replaced literally 0.1 miles ago. To top it off, they killed my emulsion tubes.

Carb cleaning at your local stealership: $545.00
Having to order replacements for your previously functioning emulsion tubes: $105.00 + 1 killer migraine.
Realizing why the guys on the forums call it a "stealership" instead of a "dealership": priceless.

the_finch wrote:

yamaboy wrote:P.S Never let other people work on your stuff. I learned my lesson

I thought I had ignition problems, and took my bike to the stealership. Turns out the carbs were gummed up from the previous owner letting it sit up for too long, and they were nice enough to clean the carbs and replace the spark plugs I replaced literally 0.1 miles ago. To top it off, they killed my emulsion tubes.

Carb cleaning at your local stealership: $545.00
Having to order replacements for your previously functioning emulsion tubes: $105.00 + 1 killer migraine.
Realizing why the guys on the forums call it a "stealership" instead of a "dealership": priceless.

Damn those stealerships.. That amount of cleaning your carbs is insane!! I just have a feeling that you are not going back there for sure.
The guy that adjusted my chain came back telling me that my left adjusting bracket was cracked..Haha bullshit.. I have taken it back and fourth trying to properly adjust my chain (it was spanking new), than I decided to have them do it right..So I can measure with my caliper when I get back home and make sure that I was doing it right for the future.. What that moron did is tighten the axle bolt too tight than forced the nuts agains the bracket causing it to brake.."It was cracked"..Right.. The thing that pisses me off is that I just had them powdercoated glossy black along with my swingarm..

I don't know why but i'm just so happy to see someone with the same configuration as me.. Most people get the Vance & Hines or the D&D exhaust..The only reason that I got mine is because my friend has a Yoshi RS5 on his Ninja and it sounds amazing.. I love the sound of it especially when I go under the freeway or bridges and rev the bike..

I rode my bike today without an air filter and it drives amazing..(don't want to jinx it..) . But that is not good for the engine , right??It's probably like riding on the freeway with the helmet visor open.. Everything is fine untill you get a rock or a bee right next to your eye..Damn it hurts.. I checked the new sparkplugs that I got after about 50 miles and they don't seem so black like before...I guess that indicated that the engine is running leaner. Do you know what color the sparkplugs would have if the bike was running lean?? I know it's black for rich.. The last thing that I'm wondering about is if you can adjust the air ratio without taking off the carbs???. I know there is the idle screw but that's just for idling..

If you managed to read all of that
Thanks for the ideas ,it really helps
I'll keep you guys updated

Update:

I finnaly got my k&N filter(YA6089) yesterday and it seems to work much better with it . Also it sounds better..so no jetting or messing with the carbs yet..

P.S By the way my gas milleage went up when I drove it withou the air filter. 35-45mpg depending on the way I drive it....I'll have to see how it does with the K&N

Sell it! Everyone else is.