FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

What's up guys? I recently snapped my chain and it busted my water pump (purchased new one) and also my clutch push rod. Is there any models that interchange with ours? I have a 1996. The reason I ask is I'm trying to get this all put back together as fast as possible and I'm having trouble finding one for my model that isnt having to be ordered from a stealership. They want a ridiculous amount for the cheapest made shit. (I'm sure you all already knew that ) I have also searched on ebay and I came up with nothing except for 1000 model ones. Any ideas on which ones would work? Thanks in advance and ride safe everyone

Presuming your engine is of the 3H series;
The pushrod 2 originated from the 1WG Genesis engine.
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamah ... 01-00.html

Fitment options are included in the link.

Any competent machinist could make on if you had the dimensions,
He would no doubt charge something in the region of the cost of a new unit.

Why owners refer suppliers a stealerships and define parts as cheap shit is beyond my comprehension.

If the chain had been inspected , maintained and replaced with a quality unit it would not have snapped and damaged the pushrod which itself is easily able to outlast the life of the vehicle.Parts are still available new, for a motorcycle that is now approaching 20 years of age and had an anticipated designed lifespan of perhaps ten years max. Perhaps owners expect the dealer to hold parts in stock and give them to owners for free ?

Take note of how long your desktop/laptop/tablet/ipod/smartphone lifespan is before calling any Japanese motorcycle
"cheap shit"
For how long they have lasted and the abuse they have suffered at the hands of inexperienced owners the FZR range of motorcycles would easily have warranted a 3 fold increase of their original price.

Thanks for the info and it was a used bike I had for a month and the chain wasn't oem it was a cheap generic p.o.s. and at the time that I got it the shop that did my inspection looked it over as did I and it seemed fine. It looks like a bad master link.I had intended to change it but took to long bc im not rich so for that part I take the blame. As for the stealership remark every time I price a part from my local one its generally marked upup close to 25% more than anywhere else and only bc they are the only one within 75 miles or more. Also every part I have gotten from them has been junk.I don't know if the manufacturer they order from is trash or what but I refuse to use them. Once again thank you though

Argh; I see your comments are aimed at the aftermarket or pattern parts that a local shop has sold you.
The way it was posted described genuine parts from a Yamaha dealer as the pushrod is only available as a manufacturers part .
Most pattern parts are not of the quality of genuine and often work out more expensive in the long term as you have found with your chain.

As for overcharging; with the inception of online fiches and ordering, many companies are able to offer parts heavily discounted. It is pile 'em high,sell 'em cheap strategy. They do not need to retain the staff or pay for the frontage
that a small independent shop does.If there is no local competition and the prices seem inflated ; one needs to factor in the cost of travelling the extra 75 miles each way to visit the alternative .

Well as you said the rod should outlast the bike as far as normal wear and tear (damn chain) so I have a question. I ordered one from the U.K. and its for my bike luckily it was like 15 dollars all together. The only part of mine that busted was the small 2 inch section that sticks out from the chamber. Would it be possible to get a small self tapping screw and somehow slowly drill into the end of the old rod and slide it out without removing the whole clutch basket or should I just man up and take it all out? I know its the more safe way but would this work? I just worry im gonna take all that shit out and screw something up.

The drilling method won't work. What would stop the pushrod spinning ?

What may work is to start and run the engine with the sprocket cover removed and the bike on the sidestand.
The oil pressure should expel the pushrod. It does on my bikes anyhow.
Switch off the engine immediately and be prepared for oil leaking all over.
Put the bike upright before removing the pushrod completely.

If the rod is snapped inboard of the oil seal you may have to remove the seal carefully.
You could reuse the seal temporarily.
Really it is best to replace it regardless after the rod was damaged.

It is not a big job to strip the r/h clutch side out to push the rod out but you WILL need a new gasket.
Keep the plates in the exact order and be aware of the mark aligning the faceplate with the drum.

More people than enough have snapped one or more of the outer clutch face plate fixing screws when refitting the plate.
Be very careful, they are super soft and require only a slight nip up. The torque setting in the manual says 6 Nm ; apply less .Loads of folk snap them at the recommended torque.

In the link you posted earlier can you tell me which number am I looking for to get the replacement seal on the push rod mine was damaged slightly and like you said I need to replace anyways but I can't tell if I need the collar or the oil seal or both I'm kind of lost as to what may have came off when the rod broke. I know the actuator thing on the clutch cover still intact and the ripped rubber collar that slides in where the rod goes needs replaced but is there anything in between the two?

13 is the oil seal.

Inside the cover of a 400; 600 is virtually identical.


What you refer to as the "ripped rubber collar" is the oil seal .!

But see that sounds right but when I look at the one that I removed its not just a round piece it has a little collar that goes into the shaft part around the rod. Am I just missing this in the pic? I mean its not like I would be out much its only 6 bucks but I just want to get it right the first time so I can ride sooner

I think you are confusing the description of an Oring with an oil seal.

If you posted up pics then there is little confusion !

Guess what these are called;


This is the Clutch pushrod oil seal( not 600 but virtually identical)


If you look at the parts fiche and follow how the parts are assembled; it is virtually impossible to install the wrong part
in the incorrect position !

Yes sir that is the piece for some reason I was thinking mine looked different but I compared them. It helps to have the parts in front of you when you're trying to figure shit out. Thanks for the pic man.

Awesome idea with the oil pressure shooting the rod out worked like a charm saved me so much time doing that. Just wait in on parts now and I will be back on the road thanks for all the help man greatly appreciate it

Ok so here's my newest issue I got everything done except rod and seal which is easy but now I need to tighten my chain and not screw anything up. I dont have a trailer or a truck so cant take it anywhere and I dont have one of those jack stands for a bike so how do I go about this? Thanks

You can do it without a stand; many others on here may not have access to one.

First you need to know what the correct slack should be and where measured.
20/30mm movement from pushed down to pushed upwards measured midway between the sprockets on the bottom chain run.
Between finger and thumb is sufficient; you don't need to be Hercules.


Wheel the machine forwards and check the tension.
Move it about a foot forward and measure again.
This needs to be done a few times until the chain has had a full rotation to find where the "tight spot" is on the chain/ sprocket run.
You now need to mark the chain so that you can find that position again.
Always check and adjust tension at the tightest spot.
I can do this operation by sitting on the bike and feeling down with my left hand.
You may need to wheel it forwards and keep using the sidestand.Its only a "used to it" thing.

Next move the bike to where it can be safely worked on,a level and hard standing.
Wheel it so the "tight spot" is in the middle of the bottom chain run.
With it secure on the sidestand;
Remove the rear axle nut split pin or R clip.
Slacken the nut about 2 turns, just enough to loosen the axle slightly.
Next slacken the rear brake caliper torque arm stay at the caliper.
This allows the axle to move freely.

Slacken the chain adjuster locknuts and nuts on the end of the s/a.
If the chain is slack; tighten each adjuster nut an equal amount until the chain tension is correct.
If the chain is tight; put a chock at the rear of the tyre and rock the bike back against it a couple of times.
Make sure the chain is still in the right position and re check the tension; it will now usually be too slack depending how much the adjuster nuts were slackened.

You must ensure that each of the tensioners is an equal distance from the end of the s/a and the axle/wheel is central.
If one side is further out/in than the other; the wheel will be out of line with the front wheel and also the frame.
This also effects the chain run on the sprockets alignment.
You may use the markings on the s/a to check this or measure how much thread is showing on each adjuster and comparing.
Tighten the spindle nut, don't allow the spindle to shift its position. I like to use a tool that is carried in the toolkit for this to the extent that it may be undone at the roadside if needed at a later date.
There is a torque figure for this; I think it is of little use if the nut is too tight to be able to tension a chain when out riding or needing to remove a wheel for puncture repair.
Under no circumstances have the axle nut too slack though; this is what keeps the wheel aligned;NOT the adjusters.
On the 600; if the axle moves it usually allows the sprocket retaining nuts to contact the adjuster end plates and they shear in half and fly off.Legion are the owners who have found this and cannot fathom how the end plate has disappeared.!
Tighten the adjuster locknut, don't allow the locknut to alter the adjuster nut; use two spanners.
Check the slack in the chain.
Stand the bike up and check again whilst sitting on it.
The slack will alter from the bike being on the stand with the suspension unloaded to that with a rider sat on it,
You do need about 20mm slack when it's loaded to account for s/a movement over undulations.
Readjust if necessary.

Tighten the caliper torque arm. This should also have a split pin.
Fit the split pin/R clip to the axle nut.

Go for a test ride carefully and recheck chain adjustment.

You should not fit a new chain to worn sprockets.

I apologise if this is longwinded and you already have some chain tightening experience.
It took longer to type this than it usually takes to do once one has the experience.

Some use axle stands and a pole under the s/a to hold a bike upright when tensioning.
A trustworthy mate is better.

Save for a paddock type stand; you will find it so useful.