FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

As the title says, I am looking at a 91fzr600. Put a new battery in it. It cracks good but doesn't start. We noticed at the same time the neutral indicator and the headlight do not come on. They both worked when the bike was last parked.On further examination, the fuel pump isn't getting any power either. The fuese under the seat check out fine. Any ideas? Thanks

Iowegian wrote:As the title says, I am looking at a 91fzr600. Put a new battery in it. It cracks good but doesn't start. We noticed at the same time the neutral indicator and the headlight do not come on. They both worked when the bike was last parked.On further examination, the fuel pump isn't getting any power either. The fuese under the seat check out fine. Any ideas? Thanks

I'm a little confused, is this a bike your thinking of buying, are you repairing it for someone, or is it your bike?

Any ways hope this helps you out.

Switch the ignition ON, kill switch ON, the fuel pump should prime for around 5 seconds (you should hear it clicking), after 5 seconds power to the pump is switched off. Therefore you only have 5 secs to test for power on the Blue/Black positive wire to the pump. If the pump isn't working try spraying starter fluid into all 4 carbs before you attempt to start the bike.

This wiring diagram should help you solve the other electrical faults (I'm assuming you've checked the bulbs).
http://fzronline.com/wiki/lib/exe/detai ... iagram.gif

You haven't said wether or not the plugs are sparking, if they aren't read the excellent advice given here
http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=no_spark_now_what

The Stock VRR fitted to 89 - 94 models is know to fail high (up to 19V DC) causing bulbs to blow, damaging the TCI, Fuel Pump E.T.C.

Sorry if I've insulted your intelligence, it's unintended GL

Change the fuses anyway

It is a bike I am looking at buying. Looking at the wiring schematic it looks like the main relay is bad. The current owner ordered one, should be here in a week or so.

Iowegian wrote:It is a bike I am looking at buying. Looking at the wiring schematic it looks like the main relay is bad. The current owner ordered one, should be here in a week or so.

Yup it could be a faulty main relay, however the TCI switches the fuel pump on and off. I'm suspecting the crap VRR fitted to older FZR's may have fried the electrical components on this bike

Never ever believe what the PO says.

The owner is a stand up guy, works with my wife and we know him well. With that said, he's not mechanically savvy. I take it we should check the regulator as soon as we get it running, assuming it does after the relay is replaced? Is there a write up as to its location? I'm mechanically savvy but haven't done much with bikes.
The bike wasn't rode last year but quite a bit the year before. It looks to be in good shape. It has 25k. On the odometer and has a v&h pipe. He was asking 750 for the bike, but I see him asking another 100 since he bought the new relay. The tires have okay tread but will be replaced due to age for my piece of mind. Since I haven't heard it run I don't know if the cam chain has been adjusted

The headlight and gauge lights are interrupted by the starter button; open up the right switch cluster and clean out the years of bugs and dust with a few sprays of contact cleaner.

The VRR is on the left side of the tail, under the side panel. If the battery is charged, unplug the VRR while troubleshooting. Check it once the bike is running; be prepared to use a boost battery or charger as time goes on. You can use a car's battery, and so long as the VRR is unplugged the car can be running. Once the VRR is checked and reconnected, the car must be OFF when boosting. A 1000W alternator will make rather short work of a 230W regulator ...

Iowegian wrote:The owner is a stand up guy, works with my wife and we know him well. With that said, he's not mechanically savvy. I take it we should check the regulator as soon as we get it running, assuming it does after the relay is replaced? Is there a write up as to its location? I'm mechanically savvy but haven't done much with bikes.
The bike wasn't rode last year but quite a bit the year before. It looks to be in good shape. It has 25k. On the odometer and has a v&h pipe. He was asking 750 for the bike, but I see him asking another 100 since he bought the new relay. The tires have okay tread but will be replaced due to age for my piece of mind. Since I haven't heard it run I don't know if the cam chain has been adjusted

As Don said the VRR is behind the left rear side panel, 4 wires 3 White and 1 Red (assuming the VRR is stock) , the main relay is also behind the left rear side panel, black relay with 10 wires. The TCI is under the riders seat 3 wires on 1 connector and 6 wires on the other connector.

The Main relay houses the Fuel Pump Relay and the Start cut out relay.

Disconnect both of the TCI connectors, turn the ignition switch and the kill switch ON, then short the Black/Blue wire (it's on the TCI's 6 wire connector) to ground. If the fuel pump then primes, the pump and main relay are fine. The Black/Blue wire on the TCI grounds the Fuel Pump relay.



If not check for voltage on the Red/Black wire on both the main relays 10 wire connector and the TCI's 6 wire connector, your looking for around 12V DC.

Edited: Reason the main relay has 10 wires not 11, the TCI has 6 wires on one connector and 3 wires not 2 on the connector.

Still haven't got it running yet. Apparently both lights were in fact burned out. They are awaiting a new ignation module. I would say my chances of buying the bike are slim, as they will probably want to recoop the price of the parts they put on, bringing the bike up to over a grand. They back needs new rubber, and I don't think the valves or can chain have been adjusted.

Iowegian wrote:Still haven't got it running yet. Apparently both lights were in fact burned out. They are awaiting a new ignation module. I would say my chances of buying the bike are slim, as they will probably want to recoop the price of the parts they put on, bringing the bike up to over a grand. They back needs new rubber, and I don't think the valves or can chain have been adjusted.

The stand up guy that works with your wife obviously tells porkies and does not listen. IMO the VRR fried the electrical components, then the stand up guy tried to sell you his pos bike but that's my opinion.

Yeah, I don't know what's going on. It actually belongs to his brother, who apparently is somewhat worthless. So he may be a scheister. Mike is ignorant about mechanical things, but a decent guy
Assuming they do get it right and don't think I'm going I'm going to pay much more than the original 750, I might still be interested. Otherwise, I have my eye on a CBR 600 for sale. Unfortunately it has a fuel pump out, but it sounds like its been taken care of, and fuel pumps are a known issue on them.

So, they still haven't got it running. Actually I think they lost interest. They are still asking 750 as a guy that owns a bike shop offered them 750 for it. So I have to ask, assuming the vrr did fry stuff, is this bike worth buying and fixing? I have no idea what ask parts this would require. I am a truck mechanic by trade, so I am mechanically inclined, just don't have much experience repairing motorcycles. I have noticed bikes tend to sell for a little more here in Iowa, as the selection isn't as good as some places. So, what day you?

In my opinion, a bike that is not running is useless and only worth the parts that you can sell quickly or use (which does not sound like the case). In my experience most of the stuff won't sell at all and the rest will sell slowly. You can probably make about $300 in parts (assuming no bodywork) within a month but to get that you have to do a bunch of wrenching, packaging, advertising and shipping.

Does the seller have the title in the sellers name with no liens? If not then move on and don't look back. The more interest you show the more they are going to stick to their price.

I would not offer more than $500 if you want to try to restore it to working order. $300 if you are going to part it and try to make a profit. Wave the cash in their face and see if they bite.

By the very fact that you started this thread six weeks ago, it is plain to see that the would be seller has little intention or skills in the repair of the motorcycle.
From your own admission, you have little experience with motorcycles.

The fzr is not a technically difficult machine to repair.
It is however often a very hard motorcycle on which to correctly diagnose any faults.
This is particularly relevant in a newly acquired non runner that has lain idle for a period.

I would advise expanding the search and buy the very best example you can afford.
A reasonably cheap motorcycle very soon becomes a money pit and expenditure far exceeds it's value if numerous faults occur and parts require replacement.

I have been known to travel the length of the UK to purchase a good example.
I would not go to the end of the street to view a "nail".

Good luck with whichever option you choose.

Iowegian wrote:Yeah, I don't know what's going on. It actually belongs to his brother, who apparently is somewhat worthless. So he may be a scheister.

You actually answered you own question, that bike could be a money pit. It's known that an over charging VRR can kill all of the electronics resulting in $700 just to replace the burnt out parts.