FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey guys looking again for some advice related to my last post. "Whack" I do believe.

Problem description:
Upon cold start, the bike turned and when Whack ...and turned no further. Its a violent sound and one that sounds like a lot of #$%$%^ time and $.
Added information:
1. Just put a newly rebuild set of carbs I worked on over the winter. So I was looking carefully for fuel leaks etc all is good.
2. Bike runs great for a week
3. Then I got this whack????!!!!???? and instantaneous stop of the rotating assembly.
4. Bike will start on the second try but it also did this once before. I dont want to bend a rod so I now am trying to understand what else it could be that is causing it.

Investigation results to date:
1. A few items came to mind after discussion with a full time knuckle bruiser. And that was Hydro-lock.
Took the CR8E plugs out (examination rather fouled rich)
2. Disconnected the HT lines and put paper towel over all the cylinders to see if one jets eject any petrol against theory of Hydrolock. They all were clean and the started swings the assembly like a champ, interference detected after multiple shots over time (so as not to damage the starter).

conclusion:
1. Hydro-lock not detected therefore not the problem.
2. Starter mechanical and electrical circuit ok no interference.

Must be something else..............

Can you shoot some video of the "whack" and throw it up on Youtube or something.?

Hi M, Thanks for the reply really stuck on this one......Well not really I don't want to put the bike through that again as it sounds like enough force to bend a rod. Also it does not do it every time. But what is sounds like is just as I said. As the bike is turned over and before it fires up it goes around and than SMACK! Dead stop like a hammer hitting and anvil!!

Remove the starter gear casing on the r/h side (peanut cover) and inspect the gears.
Unfortunately you cannot test the operation with the cover removed; the pinions require the casing for support.
You will require a new gasket unless you are very lucky so have one before removal.

willandrip wrote:Remove the starter gear casing on the r/h side (peanut cover) and inspect the gears.
Unfortunately you cannot test the operation with the cover removed; the pinions require the casing for support.
You will require a new gasket unless you are very lucky so have one before removal.

Exactly what I was thinking until I read the original thread and the advice given

DonTZ125 wrote:WOW - that sounds potentially expensive. DO NOT attempt to start it until you get this sorted!

Three things spring to mind - fouled / damaged starter gears, marginal hydrolock, or marginal interference in the valve train.

• Drain your oil
  pull the plugs
  pull the left and right case covers
  turn the motor over by hand (the flywheel on the left makes a great handle)
  inspect the starter gears in the right cover

Let us know ...

I assumed that the OP had followed the excellent advice offered, leaving me totally clueless as to any other fault that could cause his issue.

To be honest with you I did read the post then forgot getting senile......Plugs are out, oil and covers still on. Have not taken off the right and left case covers not sure which ones I need to remove and what to look for.

nochain wrote:Thanks I did all except the inspect the starter gear. Have not taken off the right and left case covers not sure which ones I need to remove and what to look for.

Ok the FZR has 4 covers 2 on the right and 2 on the left

Right hand side is the front sprocket cover (rear most of the engine) then (front of the engine) the stator cover that covers the flywheel, you can unscrew that but it must be supported unless you remove the fuel tank and disconnect both of the electrical connections ( the 3 plug stator connector & the 2 plug pick up coil connector) then you can safely rotate the engine by turning the flywheel.

Over on the right hand side is the clutch cover (rear most of the engine) ignore that one. Then carefully remove the peanut cover (front most of the engine). Behind that cover are the starter gears inspect them for broken or damaged teeth and or any foreign objects, have an assistant rotate the engine VIA the flywheel whist examining the starter gears.

The stator cover has no gasket so don't worry, as previously advised you should renew the peanut cover gasket.
HTH

EDIT: what does "senile" mean? I'm sure I've head of it before but I can't remember .

EDIT: when you have the peanut cover off, inspect the bearing in it for damage. This old age shit isn't what it's cracked up to be ha

OK did a little more work today. I think the problem maybe the starter but not sure. I checked out the starter gears under the peanut cover. Looks good bearings are good. Also took off the clutch cover and inspected all the gears and looked for anything unusual. The assembly moves OK but the starter was making lots of noise. I pulled the starter and took it apart. The bearings were fine as was the gears. The mating gear in the engine also looked good. So I reassembled the starter and tried to bench test it with a power supply. No dice as it cant deliver that much instantaneous current. I then took it to the battery and tried that but it would not turn. Maybe I messed it up upon reassembly? I should be able to apply 12V from a good battery and get the starter to spin right?

A starter connected straight to a battery should work.

By the time they start getting noisy and unpredictable they are not worth repairing.
A used starter costs around £10 for a 600.

You could re-use the peanut cover gasket .

Yup connecting the starter straight to the battery should work, but make sure the starter is bolted to something, otherwise you or the assistant could loose their balls. The starter will jump all over the place.

Well I still have em...my balls anyway

The Whack is gone as far as I can tell with my new starter (the old one I think was fine as it did jump all over the floor with no rattle). There is a significant rattle during fire up. I don't seem to recall so much in the past so I don't think its "mechanic's ear". So I was wondering if you guys hear that on your bike?

Let me hear from you guys!

Picture for you guys taken after I put in the new starter.......

Continuing on:
Ok, so I have a new starter and put a set of freshly rebuilt (including float height and mix settings) carbs on that are jetted for the exhaust and intake. I fully synchronized them as well. I have two sets one is my back up and the set that are on are my primary. We have terrible fuel here in Arizona and the bike does not get run as much as I would like so they get craped up easily. The bike runs better than new and idles very well at 900 - 1000 RPM's. So I have no complaint about running.

I however am trying to understand what variables cause a bike to either fire right up vs spinning for a longer time and stumble to a start? The bike falls into the later category now. It did not before all the work I did and I am wondering if the pilot circuit is not quite perfect or something else. The starter is brand new and I do hear a lot of rattling going on before she stumbles to a start. Before I would press start and bang! Fired right up. Wondering if this is related to the rattle I hear when the starter is engaged?

Oh and yes the battery is good/new
Any idea's guys?

Well I am back

The bike is running very good (new starter). Last night I went to take it for a ride and get some gas and I went to start it and whack! Then I tried again and she fired right up. I am starting to think its hydrolock but I am not sure. I have a few questions and wondering if anyone has some background info?>

1. What mpg are you getting city riding? was geiing 50mpg now only 35mpg...wondering if I am running to rich??
2. If you shut off your petcock (neutral seting for no flow) how long will your bike run? Mine was > 10 mins.

Humm anyone?