FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I was searching the board for an answer and I'm awful at navigating these forums so please forgive me If this is already a subject..

FZR 600, 1994. Bogs at anything below 5000 RPM, pods and a jet kit (factory pro, stage 3 i believe?). Will going back to stock jet sizes/needles and an airbox give me solid power through my range, I just want a nice running bike that has some low end power. The low end on it is garbage and i believe it's the air filters/kit, but it screams above 5-6k. Also, what about emulsion tubes, how do i know when my emulsion tubes are worn, I have the carbs out now.

What I'm curious about is if I do get an airbox, do I have to go back to stock jets and needles, or can I leave the jet kit in and just switch the pods out for the airbox?
I'm currently running
52.5 Starter
115 Main
35 Pilot

Can i keep these jets in and just put the airbox on? will that solve my bogging issue?


Thanks!

You may have not heard it by now but pods are notoriously difficult to dial in and they are more finnicky than an airbox. While I'm not suggesting that you have to get rid of the pods, it would be a good start. As for the other quesions, I'm not too saavy on jet sizes, however I've found this link useful.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tun ... gines.html

As for the emulsion tubes, the usual issue with those is that the hole goes from round to oval shaped / worn out. I check mine for roundness by taking them out, insert the needle. then drop some gas on the hole. If it leaks through, it's probably out of round.

By the way, where abouts are you in NY?

first off thanks for the response !
I've heard that about pod filters I got the bike for pretty cheap so I cant be too irritated but i hate those damn pod filters. I gotta check the emulsion tubes. So the needles should be flush with the inside of the emulsion tubes otherwise they need to be replaced?

And I'm about 40 minutes west of Albany NY. Well, my bike is, at home.
But I live in in long island now, right outside queens.

Also I have a Cobra F1 Slip on if that makes a difference, I looked up the number on the needles and i'm pretty sure that it's running a stage 3 FP kit. Which would make sense as it has....pod filters on it

The needle is round and the opening on the emulsion tube is round. Put them together and they should fit perfectly at some point along the needle. You are not checking depth or the size of the opening in the emulsion tube, just that it is round. Place a light behind it and see if you can see any light coming through. My advice is all shade tree mechanic stuff, there's probably a more official procedure somewhere. The reason it goes out of round is because the needle is steel and the tube is brass or something softer than steel.

Going back to stock is never really a bad thing. Somebody will probably chime in about float levels, however in my experience they are difficult to set and easy to get wrong. If they have not been tampered with from the factory it would be best to leave those alone.

Even if the float levels haven't been officially tampered with, it would still be a good idea to check them. The floats have little mass, but it is still possible for them to drift over 20+ years of use and vibration. For a simple comparison, checking fuel level on the outside is quicker and easier than measuring float height.

I said I have no low end power but I realized after thinking about it that my bike doesn't bog down in the low range, it takes off then bogs at about 5-7k, mid. I have the stock needles they came with the bike but I read about it and they say some sort of After market jetting is required when you have a slip on. I'm just trying to see if there Is a way to keep the jet kit in and do an airbox swap with the pods to avoid blowing money unnecessarily. Maybe a K&N drop in filter? I don't know if having the slip on is enough of a justification to run A stage 3 kit.

Acd92910 wrote:I said I have no low end power but I realized after thinking about it that my bike doesn't bog down in the low range, it takes off then bogs at about 5-7k, mid. I have the stock needles they came with the bike but I read about it and they say some sort of After market jetting is required when you have a slip on. I'm just trying to see if there Is a way to keep the jet kit in and do an airbox swap with the pods to avoid blowing money unnecessarily. Maybe a K&N drop in filter? I don't know if having the slip on is enough of a justification to run A stage 3 kit.

Did your bike come with a jet KIT (a selection of parts based on what the kit assembler thought would be reasonable for the described use), or just the jets that were picked out of the kit? Jet kits are generally IMHO a waste of money. You need to tune your bike to how YOU ride it, and the parts YOU have installed.

Do some searching in the Wiki about jetting pods; you don't want to mount the pod directly on the carb throat, but rather have it stood off a short distance.

I bought my bike from a guy, who bought it from a guy (who knows a guy who knows a guy) who had installed the jet kit in it. when i got the bike I got your typical box of parts and in this was the factory pro box with some leftover jets and the stock needles. Oh yeah, the pod filters ARE mounted directly onto the carb throats. It was some amateur attempt to .. Supe up the bike I suppose? keep in mind it has purple street glow on it, which is essentially purple bar lights ZIP TIED to the frame. I love the bike and it's been a blast to ride so I'm just trying to figure out how I can get it riding smooth and back to normal, I dont want any of that extra crap and I'd like to lose the pods with as little tinkering as possible.