disengage clutch = forearm workout

[lgndryspacemnky]

Next time someone is adjusting their clutch (93' fzr 600) could you please measure the amount of the long pushrod that protrudes out of the crank case? From the seal to the tip of the rod my measurements are 34.5mm with my current setup.

I am trying to determine if i have installed something incorrectly in the clutch basket or if my problem is with the drive sprocket cover assembly (actuator).

I have had a stiff clutch lever since my last rebuild and i believe it is due to incorrect configuration on my part.

Thanks!

[pefrey]

Did you install new / stiffer springs? Check the cable routing so that nothing is binding.

[lgndryspacemnky]

The cable is routed under the carbs and through the hole in the frame, no sharp bends or anything. I did install new oem clutch springs, and new clutch cable, but i had to install the actuator backwards (if that makes sense) just so i could screw in the phillips headed screw and locknut when adjusting the clutch. If I screwed the actuating assembly onto the drive sprocket cover where it would mount flushly to the threaded holes (2 of them), then i would be unable to screw in the small phillips headed screw when attempting to adjust the clutch.

If i could compare my current clutch pushrod's protrusion measurement (from the seal to the tip of of the long pushrod) i believe i could then determine if the problem is in my clutch basket or the assembly in the drive sprocket cover.

[lgndryspacemnky]

I feel like i have too much of the long pushrod sticking out of the seal. As if i had missed a spacer or something, but i have everything installed correctly according to the diagram in my service manual.

[lgndryspacemnky]

Opened up my clutch housing to see if i had installed everything right, i noticed this in the back.


Behind the clutch boss the gear's teeth arent flush with each other




Are they supposed to be off that little bit? I wonder if this is why im having so much difficulty adjusting the clutch?

[pefrey]

Can't see it but I'm pretty sure there's a write up with pictures in the Wiki.

[lgndryspacemnky]

Whoops! There we go. Pics are there now.
I searched but i didnt see any in the wiki.

[DonTZ125]

Your first pic definitely shows the rod standing out too far - look at the built-up ridge of old muck, then the sudden transition to shiny and clean. Since your clutch basket seems to be offset by about the same amount, I'm going to say this is an assembly error with parts left out. Look around your workbench for spare parts - odd looking washers, I'd guess.

[lgndryspacemnky]

I don't believe i have any extra parts laying around, every spacer and washer shown in the diagram is installed on the shaft. I think the shiny part of the long pushrod is where the seal sort of wipes off the crud when the actuator is twisted when i pull the clutch lever.









Very confusing and frustrating. I have been fighting this issue ever since i bought the bike from the p.o. If I have every component listed in the parts list and diagram, it makes no sense to me why it is still not functioning properly.
I have pondered with the idea of adding an extra collar or spacer onto the tranny shaft to increase the distance the long pushrod would take until it made contact with the pressure plate, but if i did that i wonder if it would rub against the clutch cover on the crank case...that would make a huge mess at a high rpm.

[lgndryspacemnky]

Could i have the wrong parts as in different years mixed into my clutch? Are they different sizes or do they even vary between the years?

[DonTZ125]

Well, you certainly seem to have all the parts in the right order. The FZR600 had the same clutch internals from 89-99; if you have a part from something else, I can't say. Two comments - first, the spacer washer with the groove is backwards; the groove should face the basket, not the pressure plate (unless it's grooved on both sides). This won't affect stack-up, obviously, but it might cause other issues down the road. Second, check the big spacer (with the big roller bearing) if it goes on differently one way or the other.

You haven't shown the two push rods and ball; even if the basket stack-up is correct, damage or spare parts there will cause your problems with the lever feel.

[lgndryspacemnky]

The first washer with the groove does have the indention on both sides, and the large spacer with the roller bearing seems to make no difference if i reverse its direction, same on both sides as well. The long pushrod and short are being replaced (a small crater was forming on the tips of both) and the ball bearing is being replaced with new oem parts too.
Adding an additional spacer would for sure screw up the inside of my crankcase cover I imagine. But even after I have replaced the pushrods and bearing, I don't believe i will be able to thread into the actuator. Nothing has been changed or corrected yet.
On the top of the motor there is a stamped set of letters and numbers reading [3HH-056553] is there a way i can use these numbers to verify that the motor im working on is a 93' fzr600? I'm just worried ive been ordering the wrong parts for it.

[DonTZ125]

The 3HE and 3HH are fundamentally the same; I believe the UK version had an oil cooler, but that wouldn't affect the clutch. As I said, the internals were unchanged throughout the run. Some of the various clutch consumables are using updated part numbers, but are still physically interchangeable.

I'm baffled ...

[lgndryspacemnky]

Same here. I'm not even sure the clutch setup inside the housing is where my problem is. If I knew how much of the long pushrod is supposed to protrude out of the seal under the drive sprocket cover maybe I could rule out that the issue lies in the actuating assembly and not the clutch housing.

[lgndryspacemnky]

Okay, well I got another question, and this one might be a dumb one or whatever but...in my clutch's actuator is there supposed to be a small metal bearing? Its in there like its supposed to be though...