FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

My carbs settings:
22mm floats
3.5 a/f
synched
setting 3 (from the top) on factory pro needles
new emulsion tubes
factory pro springs
stock jets 7.5,5.2 etc

Starts with choke, when it starts revving to 3k (it takes about 15secs to to this) I turn off choke and it idles @12-1500.
Decent friction zone I don't really have a stall issue, but it does lurch a little till 2k.
Been using midgrade, just filled up with regular.
Throttle response normal at normal operating temp. I do notice coming off the highway that in nuetral it will hang for a couple secs in 2.5k range and then back down to normal.
It does seem a little rough to 3k but its pretty smooth acceleration after up to 7-8k (have not revved past there yet).

I am leary to start wrenching again for fear of throwing it all back out of wack. I have 150 miles on it like this and it has no problems on highway or with power. just hoping to smooth out. assuming the floats or the needle jet could be adjusted. Also what about the main jets, would putting the 10s on mean floats have to be higher?

I would guess that you're running too "lean".

Try to pull the choke on right before it ups the RPMs after the bike is heated up. If it works, then you need to richen it up.

Do you know what your header temps are at idle?

darrin

I started it just a few minutes ago without choke, started and idles at 1k but will start to drop down and die if i don't goose a little throttle (just barely)then a within a min it idles fine with no choke. the other morning leaving from work is when I noticed it needed full choke for a few secs and then as it "stabilzied" it would kick up to 2.5-3k and i would just kill choke and it idles fine. 15 secs may be an exageration, more likely 5-10sec

I would check the header temps to see how hot they're running and the temp variance between the cylinders.

darrin

Sorry my laptop batt was flashing i forgot to respond to the whole thing, plugged in now. Not sure about header temps. Are you saying turn on choke after it warm?

Ok will get a heat sensor, recomend a good inexpensive one?

I use a RayTek MT6. eBay LINK

Yes. If you leave the choke open slightly, it acts like you "richened" up the bike.

It sounds lean, mostly down low. Luckily this is the range where the pilot screws have most their effect and they're easy to mess with. You might try going up a full turn on the screws and see what that does for you. The right way to tune the idle is with the temperature gun though.

If you continue to hang up in the RPMs after a while of cruising it probably means your lean higher up. You could try moving the needle clip another notch towards the pointy end. If it doesn't make you bog anywhere that might be enough. If it bogs then the problem will most likely need to be addressed with jetting changes. Are you running the stock airbox and exhaust? If not, the stock jetting will certainly be too lean.

The reason you're hanging up in the RPMs after cruising is because you're running lean and hot higher up. Going to a lower octane fuel will exacerbate the problem, though it does make diagnosis easier. As long as you aren't way too lean, going to higher octane gas might be enough to fix the problem.

I used a cooking temp timer

#1 275-280
#2 275-280
#3 330
#4 275-280

#3 is a bit off.

You do know that you should tune from high rpm to low rpm. Make sure your top and mid range feel strong before moving on to low rpm. Cuz if you have to change your mains, it will affect your low end richness.

It feels very strong and no noticable bog at all from 3-8k. I do feel like my mid to high end is right. but i cruise at 75 on the freeway at 6k. I have not really opened it up except building up to speed from 1st-3rd.

tuning from header temp, Higher temp equals lean right? So for the 330f cyl at 3.5 turns , I should take it to 4 turns and leave the othersalone ?

fadlan12 wrote:tuning from header temp, Higher temp equals lean right? So for the 330f cyl at 3.5 turns , I should take it to 4 turns and leave the othersalone ?

Correct and yes

megaloxana wrote:

fadlan12 wrote:tuning from header temp, Higher temp equals lean right? So for the 330f cyl at 3.5 turns , I should take it to 4 turns and leave the othersalone ?

Correct and yes

how long does the temp take to cool down after adjustment?

fadlan12 wrote:

megaloxana wrote:

fadlan12 wrote:tuning from header temp, Higher temp equals lean right? So for the 330f cyl at 3.5 turns , I should take it to 4 turns and leave the othersalone ?

Correct and yes

how long does the temp take to cool down after adjustment?

Not sure, let the bike sit for like 10-15min and give it another go.

megaloxana wrote:You do know that you should tune from high rpm to low rpm. Make sure your top and mid range feel strong before moving on to low rpm. Cuz if you have to change your mains, it will affect your low end richness.

The Mains shouldn't affect the low end (throttle less than 1/4 turn) at all.

Here is a good chart for reference on what affects what throttle range: