FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I have my bike almost stripped down for paint. all I have to do is drop the engine. when it come to paint I thought about painting it straight black, but can I use the same paint in silver or chrome to avoid powder coating. will I still have the same shine and luster when the sun hit it like powder coating

It all depends on prep and application. Do a crappy job at either and you will get crappy results. Powder coating but it is much more durable than paint. Paint will scratch easily, powder coat will not.

is there a hardner I could apply.

With powder coat you'll have to pay someone with a big enough oven to take the frame to do the job.

I made up my mind to paint the frame liquid black , and clear coat. the wheels will be powder coated chrome. I'm dropping the engine today and start sanding. what grit sandpaper should I use.

tclayton9 wrote:I made up my mind to paint the frame liquid black , and clear coat. the wheels will be powder coated chrome. I'm dropping the engine today and start sanding. what grit sandpaper should I use.

Make sure to see a sample of the chrome if you're going that route. I've only ever seen one powder that actually looked similar to chrome. The rest are more silver than chrome. Now, if you were able to be talked into a different wheel color, I have a set of Argento Silver wheels with Gloss Clear over them. Never been mounted.

Being that i already have a set of wheels i would try to get them to the color of the wheels you posted where can i find that color and the gloss you used. Plus what sand paper and primer can i use.

The wheels I posted are powder coated. You would most like pay 200+ for them to be coated as these are. And that would be just for the coating. You'd still have to pop the bearings, pull the tires, etc. This way you'd have a full set to sell and a brand new set to build all for what it would most likely cost in powder alone.

As for dealing with the frame, if it's in good condition a 400 grit to scuff it up would be fine. Just make sure to spend a good amount of time on it to get everything nice and even. If you are rattlecaning it, any automotive primer will work fine. There are the high build ones if you need to cover some imperfections. Just remember that the prep is the important part. Hours can be spent on the prep and 45 minutes or so on the paint side. Rustoleum has a nice primer as well. Paint with dupli-color or similar and I recommend the spraymax 2k for a clear coat. It's hard as nails.

OK thank you.so can I rattle can it or do I have to use a spray gun when it comes to paint? I was going to rattle can the primer. which ever one will give me the better glossy look I will use. I appreciate your help

I'd use 400 grit too pre-primer, with maybe a bit coarser before on any rough bits to save elbow grease.

Then 400-600 pre base coat or gloss coat.

Be prepared to flat off the first primer coat or two with wet 600. You can spray a very light coat of contrasting rattle can over the primer pre flat off to highlight the highs and lows.

Use panel wipe before each paint coat and tack cloths if you want top results.

Zinc182 is a good primer on good condition metal but has no real build qualities.

Spray guns are gonna give a better result but need a good gun+ compressor and practice. Rattle cans used well should be fine for the frame as it's not a massive area it's when someone tries to do a car door or similar rattle cans just wont work because they need so many passes and it looks like a kids shading in on a colouring book. A decent gun will do a car door in 3 passes.

Oh, final tip - keep the gun or can at a constant distance to the work, most noobies arc their hand so you get paint thicker in the middle than the sides.

Good luck.

John

OK thanks to everybody. I went out and bought 400 grit and 80 grit just in case, but like you said I will go and get some 600. I bought rustoleum metal primer.

I'm curious if you priced chrome plating your wheels? I've got a 1 chrome and 1 painted and need to decide. Thanks.

started sanding today and I caught hell. I used 400 first and I barely got any paint off but it did rough it up. when I used 80 grit I got all the way to the metal. The PO must have had it painted because I don't think it suppose to have that much primer and paint on the frame from the factory. Do I have to sand it to the metal or can I just rough it up.

'rough it up' then smooth it down with the 400.

As others said it's all about the prep.

When you've done the primer if there are any flaws sort them and re- prime as this WILL be the finish you get with the gloss/ basecoat.

John