FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I am looking to turn my '92 fzr 600 into a 660. I have read through everything I can find about this conversion, and am now weighing the options.

At first I was thinking about buying a yzf motor. Then dropping the crack shaft, fly wheel and the generator in to if from the fzr. I realize that it would take a 3 mm base, changing the wiring a bit, and probably swapping the rear end to get the chain straight. Then there's the crank seal that I can't seem to find. All the leads to finding one in the old threads are dead.

Then I like the way RR did his with just changing the cylinders and pistons. Then having the rods honed to fit the pistons. I like how simple and cost effective that is.

I'm pretty sure I'm going the simpler route, but just to make things a little more complicated I think I'll try to find a set of the fazer rods. Though I don't know which year I am supposed to look for, or a way to figure it out.

Though I've worked on vehicles, I have always stayed away from engine work until now. I don't mind criticism and its hard to hurt my feelings, so if you guys think I'm batching something let me know.

I just want to make sure I'm not missing something simple with my lack of experience.

I bought the yzf cylinders and pistons today go for about $ 150. I decided to just get the fzr rods honed out. I'll have to find a machine shop around me. I've never needed one before. I started pulling the engine today.

Your info says "southern california", so I am thinking that finding an automotive machine shop with a sunnen rod hone shouldn't be all that hard. Talk to some of the tuner car guys and see who they use. overboring rods is a fairly common practice in their world.

There used to be an old hispanic guy with a machine shop on ElCajon Blvd. in SD...about 4 blocks east of Fairmont...he was a badass when it came to this kind of stuff. Can't remember his name or his shop's.

But, ask around a bit.

I'm a few hours north of San Diego, but I've got some family that builds bikes. Never put the two and two together and thought to ask where they get there machine work done.. I understand plastigauge and how it measures the clearance. What I don't understand is what is the process to get those clearances right.

Update for the project:
The motor is pulled and I am currently going through the transmission for piece of mind. The cylinders came in and still have the factory honing marks. The piston have also arrived.

The process in getting plane bearing clearances right is plastigauging what you have/what calculates as "right" and seeing if 'tight' or 'loose' and going up or down in bearing shell size from there.

(the bearing shells are sold in thickness increments)

That's the answer I was hoping for thanks. I've always bought from bike bandit are there any better places?

Boats.net worked out for me. I haven't gotten the shift forks yet but they had them when most people didn't and for under msrp. As far as getting the clearances right should I start out with the ones I have, and then go up or down from there? I would be worried about wear on the bearing shells themselves after 20,000 miles and that wear messing up the measurement. Is this just something you have to buy the std size try it and then adjust from there? The pistons came in and the rings look straight and don't appear to have any warp or wear. Is it better to replace them or are they pretty sturdy.

I'll spend the money to do it right, but I don't want to waste any money. Thanks for the help.

Still waiting on the shift forks from boats.net two weeks after I ordered them. I wouldn't be surprised if the fzs rods got here from Europe first, and I ordered them a week after. The rods description said no wear on the bearing shells. So that'll be a good starting place to get the clearances right. I'm hoping the parts will come in soon, because the project just got it's timeline of last week.

boats are always slow. I placed an order and two days later they didn't take the money from my bank account . I called and cancelled.

I checked my email, which I don't do offten, and Boats.net had sent me a refund. They didn't give me an explaination. I ordered new forks off of flat out, but at additional cost. Though I just put the transmission back together. I've found its alot easier to put things back right with less parts out. I started to take of the head, but the allen bolts won't budge. I'm worried about braking off the allen wrench. I'll have to try the cordless impact. Any tips to avoid that problem?

Well my shoulder is on the mend from pins and a bit of sewing, but with some brother sister bonding We got the cylinder head off. The head doesn't look bad, but the oil passages around the cylinders are full of rust and debris. Tells me coolant is making its way in some how. The other set back is I knocked the container separating all the lifters over, so they are completely mixed up now. I know they're throw off the valve clearance if they go back wrong, but what's my move for getting that back right?

No oil in those passages, they are there FOR coolant.

Did you write down the shim size/location?

If not, the only thing you can do is install them, take measurements, do the math and swap what you can, replace what you have to.

I took another look last night and common sense told me they were just junked up coolant passages. Lesson learned again my coworker is wrong 75% of the time. I did not write them down, because I separated them and was planning on adjusting them at the end. Though it would've saved time to figue it out first. I can't be in a hurry anyways, because the shoulder dictates work load. The good news is my 15 year old sister now knows what a cam shaft is and does, but her answer to every question is, "The camshaft that controls the gas and air into the motor." The engine will have to wait for my buddy to get on leave. I can't do anymore by myself then has been done. Though I have found two out of the three shift forks without having to gamble on used ones.

And thank you for taking the time.

The motor is torn down and almost cleaned. I had to take all the old paint off first. The inside still needs to be cleaned, but I'll do that right before assembly. The main bearings are blemished and have a couple good scuffs in them. So I pulled the numbers and will be ordering new ones. There are five numbers on the crank and six on the case. I'm assuming the last number, a five, doesn't get subtracted. The bearing I pulled was marked yellow which, according to the manual, is a number five. I've learned plenty of times over never assume, so can anyone confirm that? Also I have always had a parts cleaner when washing parts, but my old employer packed up and moved. I realize now that I have no idea what solvent I washed parts with. A coworker recommended acetone, but I've also learned not to trust him. What is the best solvent to use for cleaning the inside of the case?