FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hey everybody,

To start, new to FZR's but not to bikes. Im a DIY'er into restoring cars, bikes, mopeds, older stuff, etc.

The Bike is a 1992 FZR 600.


Picked her up non-running for 4 years, the owner swore that she was well cared for prior to a 4 year storage.

I cant get her to start!

Got a new battery, oil & filter, spark plugs, new starter solenoid, cleaned the carbs, cleaned out the gas tank and petcock, cleaned the air filter (UNI foam), pulled apart the grounds & connectors and cleaned them, pulled apart the controls and cleaned them, Still no start.

Here's what happens: I turn the key and the headlight and neutral light come on, I flip the kill switch to RUN & the Oil light comes on, the fuel pump primes the carbs, the EXUP servo cycles. I press the START button (in neutral, kickstand down, no clutch), the headlight turns off, and the Oil light turns off, but nothing from the starter...

So I jump the starter to make sure it cranks, It does! But the motor doesn't catch, just cranks.

So I'm thinking I have 2 issues here:
1. There's discontinuity between the START switch and the Starter...
2. Something is keeping the motor from starting when the starter is jumped.

I checked for spark by removing a spark plug and grounding it to the frame. It looks pretty weak, so I pulled off the plug caps, disassembled, and cleaned them in solvent. Cut a tad off the wires to make a fresh connection w the caps.
Question: Does the resistor go in the cap before, or after, the spring? does it matter? I put the spring in first.
I'm thinking about picking up new NGK SD05F plug caps after some more diagnosis this evening.
Picking up a new multimeter today also.

HELP pls

Spring first,then resistor,then end screw.
Resistor should be circa 10 ohms for the assembled cap; 14 ohms + and they are done for.
Unusual for all 4 to be jiggered though;they may just require cleaning.

Have you access to a good known compression tester, ?

Check your neutral and sidestand switches. Very common fault, and the TCI won't allow spark, and the main relay won't allow cranking, if the engine is in gear with the stand down.

Easy check - flip the side stand up. Does it start? Bad neutral switch, or wiring. If not, grab the clutch. Does it crank? Bad sidestand switch or wiring.

Thanks for the responses gentlemen, I'll go about checking those items this afternoon & post my results.
How do I test the neutral and sidestand switches? Is there a clutch switch?

There is a clutch switch right at the perch. The various switches can be tested with an ohmmeter / continuity tester; you want 0 ohms / continuity with the switch ON - clutch pulled in, sidestand up, transmission in neutral.

Do the checks I mentioned first, though, before you start pulling bodywork and unplugging things.

You guys are going to think I'm ridiculous, I had the starter solenoid installed in reverse. She fires up now but is indling really high about 4k.

Let t it up to operating temp and turn it down to about 11-1200. The large knerl headed screw with the Phillips screwdriver slots visible from the left hand side by the petcock.