FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

ok so here is my predicament, first off im not electricaly inclined, second off.... well that's my bikes problem. so to all my electrically inclined FZR600 brothers out there please help.

my bike is in need of a new start switch, so I purchased one and proceded to put it on my bike, it went real nice til I tried to start the bike.... I turned on the key, pushed the kill switch to run, and hit the button hoping I could finally ride my bike.... well when I hit the switch nothing happen.... not even a click or a grrrr from the motor.... so I took it off and took it completely apart and cleaned all the connections and put it back together... put it back on my bike and still nothing. I tried with the stand up, down, I tried with the clutch in, and out, I even put it in gear and held the clutch in and still nothing happened with the new switch. so I put my old switch back into use and hotwired the bike and it fired up, but the problem with that switch is one of the screws that held in the throttle cable was completely stripped so when I took it off my bike to begin with I had to use a cut off wheel to get my throttle cable out of it ... so I cant use that switch pod on my bike now..... do any of you know why the new switch wouldn't work?????

its a 91 600 btw, idk if that help trouble shoot anythin

Unplug the switch cluster and get out the multimeter or continuity checker.

Probe the two Red/White wires (top center and top right, facing the terminal sockets); you should have continuity with the kill switch ON.
Probe the bLue/White and Black wires (bottom left and bottom center); you want continuity with the start button pressed. While you're there, probe the bLue/Black and Red/Yellow wires (middle left and top left); there should be continuity with the start button OFF.

I sold Mossy the switch. When I got it back yesterday, the first thing I did was continuity test it with a meter as Don described. Everything checked out so I went out to the garage and plugged it into my bike. When I hit the start switch, she promptly fired right up (cut-off switch worked fine also). So... whatever problem Mossy is having with his bike, it can't possibly be ONLY the switch.

Sometimes it's best to look for the simplest answer first. Have you checked the fuses?
When mine wouldn't click it was the main fuse. So if you haven't already looked give it a shot.
Good luck.

If he can hotwire the switch cluster and start the bike, it ain't the fuses.

Mossy - check the switch cluster connector on the harness side for security and condition; look for terminals or wires that are loose, corroded, melted, covered in squirrel poo - you name it. Also check the connection at the main relay assembly on the left side of the seat frame by the battery.

"If he can hotwire the switch cluster and start the bike, it ain't the fuses."(quote)

Ya well I just browsed the post... And then butted in!

Oh and I can vouch for Brandon. If he sold you something you can bet its in good working order.
I've bought loads of stuff from him and never had any problems at all!

alright guys I really appreciate it, ive got plans this evening but ill try and get to it tomorrow and let ya know if it works or not, r whats going on

ok well today I took apart all my electrical connections and cleaned them up with some spray cleaner stuff and a nylon brush everything looked alright... I mean after all it is a 23 year old bike.... so theyre not gonna look perfect but I proceeded to start my bike via the hotwire trick and it fired but I couldn't give it any gas cause my switch pod, which as you all know holds the throttle cables in place, is broken .... and then after that my bike wouldn't completely fire.. it would turn over and try to start but it was unsuccessful..... I think its getting to much air and not enough gas... ive got dual K&N airfilters on it and if I take one set off and cover one carb with my palm it will generally fire right up..... so now im really confuzzeled cause I dunno where to start at when it comes to fixing that sorta thing.... can yall help????

mossyoakboy wrote:ok well today I took apart all my electrical connections and cleaned them up with some spray cleaner stuff and a nylon brush everything looked alright... I mean after all it is a 23 year old bike.... so theyre not gonna look perfect but I proceeded to start my bike via the hotwire trick and it fired but I couldn't give it any gas cause my switch pod, which as you all know holds the throttle cables in place, is broken .... and then after that my bike wouldn't completely fire.. it would turn over and try to start but it was unsuccessful..... I think its getting to much air and not enough gas... ive got dual K&N airfilters on it and if I take one set off and cover one carb with my palm it will generally fire right up..... so now im really confuzzeled cause I dunno where to start at when it comes to fixing that sorta thing.... can yall help????

If you have pods, you should be able to rev the engine by turning the throttle bell crank by hand (the thingy where the cables connect to the carbs).

didn't think about that... thanks

ok so.... so far nothing has worked.... i checked the continuity on all 8 of the wires that are connected to that pod and found one that was dead... it is the BLUE wire with a WHITE stripe or dots on it... i am by no means an electrician so ima need some help ..... maybe a walk thru

The bLue/White wire is the wire leading FROM the starter solenoid coil TO the start button; the start button connects TO ground, allowing current to flow through the solenoid coil, closing the contacts, feeding the starter motor and turning over the engine.

Where were you comparing continuity? You can't check a wire for continuity at one end ... Check L/W vs B at the connector, check L/W at the connector and at the start button, check B at the connector and at the start button, check across the button itself.

the male end of the connector where all 8 of the wires are and directly to the battery.... and what is L/W and B??????

L/W = bLue / White
B = Black