FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Dealer will take care of an iffy vr on the bike. The lights go bright, dim and back periodically. Battery also boiled over a bit. I figure the vr may have something to do with other issues.

Starting up (granted it was about 34f outside both mornings) took 2 or 3 tries for it to keep running full choke. Not hard starting, just would start up and stall out and was fine the second or third time. Warms up after about 20 seconds and idle goes up and I can back off the choke. Warmer out it starts right up and barely uses any choke (53f)

The idle is a little loopy, though I expect that's normal. It idles around 1200rpm which if I recall is also the norm for this bike.

Roll off throttle is just fine, no hesitation (just had carb cleaning by dealer) runs strong. When part throttle just cruising steady speed such as going up a hill, it starts breaking up a bit, little response from the increase in throttle. Increase throttle just a bit more and it stops breaking up, pulls good and strong. Keeping in mind, it's just a very small deadish spot just starting to give the bike throttle.

14,000 miles, I believe the bike still has the same emulsion tubes (likely cause for starting issues cold and partial throttle break?) and I don't know for sure yet if the valves were adjusted.

Temp needle also stays just above the break in the line on the cold side. Maybe faulty gauge or thermostat. I imagine this also could cause some of the hesitation at partial throttle.

Outside of that, the only other issue with the bike are the front brakes which must be warped rotors as I've gone over the rotors to scuff them (400grit) and cleaned them well with brake cleaner. still has pulsating braking, not felt at the lever though.

What I wanted to confirm as course of action. I know the VR has to be done first and formost. I was thinking plugs would be next just to make sure they're ready to go. If still a bit funny, just do the emulsion tubes. I would think some combination should clear up my hesitation issue and may very well correct the cold start hesitaton.

As far as the rotors, are aftermarket rotors decent for these bikes or should I source out some oem rotors?

*Regarding steady state cruising* Me and My buddy's FZRs both hate slow speeds and low rpms. Basically doing ;less than 20mph or riding under 3k RPMs is Herky Jerky and requires lots of clutch feathering. I end up staying in lower gears and riding at higher RPMs to reduce this hesitation..

Maybe this is what you are talking about.

Dealer is replacing the VRR for me, I'll just install it myself till I decide to upgrade.

Bike has pods on it, go figure. I took the carbs apart and it has the recommended settings from dynojet, 130 mains, clip in 5th from top, stock pilot. mix screw i went 2.5 out instead of 3. Basically, the bike started stumbling worse and worse till the point I'm at now that I can't ride it (keeping in mind, got up to 80 today) The bike I'm willing to bet is extremely rich at 1/8th throttle. It seems that I could lower the fuel level in the carbs to try to fiddle with that... or I could just find a replacement stock airbox and do a quick jet, which is what I chose as I'll likely never be fast enough to need the top end from the pods.

For the jetting, I'm figuring on buying 110 jets from the dealer and going with the 4th clip on the needles, sound about right? Also going to replace the plugs since they're likely toast after running so rich. Might as well do a coolant flush while I'm in there.

Yea... ditch those pods.. Pods at anything less the WOT provide inconsistent airflow which results in poor performance.

I would not waste time tuning the carbs until you have an airbox fitted. Ebay has some for under $50.

pnbell wrote:Yea... ditch those pods.. Pods at anything less the WOT provide inconsistent airflow which results in poor performance.

I would not waste time tuning the carbs until you have an airbox fitted. Ebay has some for under $50.

Hi,
whilst PODS are a known nightmare to tune IF they are not mounted on "stalks" to keep the same length as the original intake tract to the airbox. It is a VERY cheap mod to get them to work correctly
Look in the WIKI for my notes on the subject.

As for low RPM and cold starts (well known in the UK :-} FZR's are very cold blooded and require warming up thoroughly. ie full "choke" and start engine wait for engine revs to soar to 3K+ then gradually reduce "choke" till idles smoothly at 1200- 1400 revs then ride until about 5-10 mins (depending on how cold the ambient temperature is) then you can shut the "choke" off.

Emulsion tubes do wear but at 14K should not be a problem 20K+ yes STIG on this forum gets replacement tubes made out of a harder wearing material suggest if you do need replacements you PM him.

Im buying the stock airbox to get away from the tuning issues. With the stock box and what I there think is a full exhaust, will 110 mains be a good start or should I get the 112s?

Got the airbox in. Must have been for a 400 or something. I had to heat and stretch the boots to fit over the carbs, only temporary untill I can afford new boots.

110 mains are just about right. I have the clip in the 4th position on the needles. Float bowls 24mm, pilots 2.5 out. Starts odles Nd runs great. If anything maybe a bit of a flat spot maintaining speed up hills, barely noticable.

Just need to find some tires and brake rotors.