FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I was told this kit was simple just remove your old jets and throw in the new ones and bam your finished, eventually i was going to have it dyno tuned by a friend of mine. in the kit 105-110 which one am i suppose to put in, i figured the 110 but for some reason it looks smaller then the 105, im really lost hear i read stuff but all i see if numbers and kinda of understand the concept but still am lost....

The different size jets are because the inner two cylinders on the bike run hotter than the outside ones.

Its not quite as simple as just fitting the new jets and needles. You will still need to play with the needle clip heights to get a smooth midrange and you will have to synch the carbs.

Conrad wrote:The different size jets are because the inner two cylinders on the bike run hotter than the outside ones.

Its not quite as simple as just fitting the new jets and needles. You will still need to play with the needle clip heights to get a smooth midrange and you will have to synch the carbs.

Although the 2 inner cylinders likely DO run hotter than the inner ones, the 600 uses the same main jet size for all 4 carbs. I know this is NOT the case on the 1000 but I suppose Yamaha R&D just didn't think it was enough of a problem for the 600 to justify different sizes. Also true that, depending on the ambient variables of your particular location, you may need to experiment with the clip settings.

Kaspen,

Factory Pro's 110 jets are one step up from the OEM 107.5s. I would throw those in there and see how it goes. Regarding needle clip positions, you could always give them a call to ask for a recommendation based on your location (sea level, ambient temp, etc.). I know DynoJet has base recommendations in their instructions that work pretty well. Did the FP kit come with any documentation? If so, just go with what it says and experiment from there. It really shouldn't take too long to get it dialed in.

Good luck!

ok so what i did was put in the springs and set the needle clip on the second notch, as far as the jets i will put in all the 110 jets, just wondering why it came with 105 jests aswell? also im running a r6 header swap and a danmoto r6 exhaust i belive im running a bit lean, also what i noticed is that while my bike sat for about a month it has started a condition. i rev it and then it comes down to about 3.5k and gets stuck there as if the chock is engaged and only way it will stop if by turning the bike off waiting a lil then starting her up agian. i replaced the plugs and the gas is same from before but it had additives like stabalizer. anyone have reccomndations on how to remove screws that are stripped?

so i put the kit all together and took her for a test ride. i put the clips on the needles at the second from top notch. then i placed the 110 in all four carbs. the a/f screws are at 3.0 turns out. when i started her i heard lots of popping and i got some bit of back fire. then i took her for a ride. i slowly let out the clutch and she almost about died i had to give her a lil gas to keep her from losing power. so I took her to the road to open her up i hit third gear and at 5k she felt flat and all power just would not pick up...any suggestions?

Seems like you might be running lean.

If you rev the bike in Neutral does it return Right to idle; Hang above idle; or Fall below idle? (you mentioned it was hanging above idle previously) This would indicate a Lean Condition (weird given that you have larger jets, and your Fuel/Air screws are out 3 turns)
-I would check if you have any intake leaks; With the bike running spray starter fluid around the Intake Boots; if the idle changes you have leaks.

You might also try raising the needles up. (put the clip lower) This would give more fuel at higher rpm...

Tuning carbs to match your engine/intake/exhaust is always a bit of a game... Trial and Error is about all you can do.

so i figured it all out. here is what happened, the pos had the sparkplug wiring incorrect. he had it set at 1324. when i did my tune up i accidently mixed 2 and 4 up and set it at 1342, i had no idea what the original factory setting for the spark plug was. i reasearch here on the forums and seen its suppose to be 1234, so i double checked my plugs. the reason i double checked them was becuase i noticed that i had a small what looked to be oil ( really turned out to be gas) leak from header 34.
i touched the header and they were cold to the touch and this was after i romped it for three miles. this led me to do check my plugs thus finding the issue. now she runs like a champ power wheelies in first with no problem. here are my settings still have a few tweaks to work out with my headers but shes running golden besides the flame out the rear when i down shift. Still need to have it sync but getting my valves adjusted so no reason to worry about it now.

1996 fzr 600 25k on the clock
r6 header
dan moto gp exhaust
uni air filter with original airbox
factory pro jet kit 1.0
floats set at 24mm
2.5 turns out
neddle set at second to top notch
regular ngk will be upgrading to iridis soon
elevation is 220
nothing else was changed rest is all stock besides my sproket i went -1 front and +2 rear

Power Wheelies!?? wish my bike did power wheelies...


Glad to hear you got it all smoothed out!

Iused to have to clutch up to do wheelies but now that Ive done the jet kit, the exhuast, headers and the intake she will lift up smooth as I pull back the throttle,
i know the sprocket accounts for the extra torq aswell. but she gets up and goes with the best of the 600 out there. now to get my valves adjusted and resynce the carbs and call it a day... untill i order my factory pro advancer, emlusion tubes and shift kit..