FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

As the title states, I'm soon to commence the rebuild of my bike. I bought it with it needing some minor tlc, but recently discovered a head gasket leak, small tick from the valves, and now a constant starting issue (leaving me to bump start it each time).

So here's the bike now, as well as the new "part motor" I'll be using (thanks to fzrbrandon):




Recent things I HAVE done to the bike:
-Fixed all the exhaust leaks and missing rivets.
-New R6 VR
-Proper burnout.
-New rear pads

I'll be getting rid of the trans parts (other than the cases), and swapping the top ends after I go thru this "new" one thoroughly. PO of the bike didn't do any (if any, then very few) maintence things on this...resulting in a 90k+ bike that needs love. He claims he put a new battery in it as well, but I think it may be junk after my starting issues (mentioned below). And before anyone thinks I paid to much for it or anything, it runs and I need a $770 vehicle since I just moved over 3k miles...but it'll be a rad bike when done.

First off, can anyone give me some input on my starting problem? I can bump start the bike in 2nd fine, and it runs...but when I try to start it with the elec start, I just get either ONE click or constantly clicking from the ignitor box under the seat. Again, the PO says it was a new battery too. I tested it at work and it had 14v (I believe) while sitting, and about the same at idle. Any help would be cool, and to get some brownie points here's what I do at work all day besides read FZR nonsense...

All I have to say is your job looks awesome

There are no mechanical parts in the TCI unit to make the clicking noise.
You may be misinterpretting the noise of the fuel pump but it is more likely the starter solenoid.
Have the ignition on.
Use a bridge (jumper ) between the large terminals (under rubber boots-6mm studs with nuts) on the solenoid.
Starter should operate if all connections are good.
Invest in a Clymer manual,they are cheap and an excellent reference.

welcome to the club i live in cali aswell, i also have a online manual i can posibble email you the info should help you out inbox me with yoru email and ill try and send it to you, im in santa maria ca look it up

A small tick from the valves is normal, especially when cold. These bikes like loose valves.

You've measure the battery voltage while running, now measure it while off - it should be around 12.8v. If it's down even after a good run, the battery was damaged when the old VR let go.

What camera is that? Looks like a Canon lens, but not a Canon body. I've done studio work, but certainly not on that level.

darrin

ragedigital wrote:What camera is that? Looks like a Canon lens, but not a Canon body. I've done studio work, but certainly not on that level.

darrin

Sony fs700, Canon lens adapter that add's about 25-30mm (so a 50mm lens would be closer to an 80mm on a full frame). But that is a Canon lens, 70-200.

DonTZ125 wrote:A small tick from the valves is normal, especially when cold. These bikes like loose valves.

You've measure the battery voltage while running, now measure it while off - it should be around 12.8v. If it's down even after a good run, the battery was damaged when the old VR let go.

I did before and after I ran it the other day. Voltage was all above 12.8v

willandrip wrote:There are no mechanical parts in the TCI unit to make the clicking noise.
You may be misinterpretting the noise of the fuel pump but it is more likely the starter solenoid.
Have the ignition on.
Use a bridge (jumper ) between the large terminals (under rubber boots-6mm studs with nuts) on the solenoid.
Starter should operate if all connections are good.

That's very possible. The noise is coming from around the rear shock-starter area, I just didn't have time last night or this morning to try to jump it. Are you referring to the boot on top of the starter? If you have a pic, that'd help.

12.8v before and after plus 14v running says to me your battery and charging system@are fine. This suggests a bad starter or a jammed starter gear train.

DonTZ125 wrote:12.8v before and after plus 14v running says to me your battery and charging system@are fine. This suggests a bad starter or a jammed starter gear train.

Ya...after this point Im thinking some starter issues. I have another one sitting on the new motor, just need time to wrench on it. Easy swap?

Ummm - I think so; haven't done it myself. First, though, you might want to drain the oil and pull the right side cover. The starter is now mechanically decoupled from the engine. Hit the starter button! Does the solenoid lock up, or chatter? Does the starter spin freely and fast?

Take a look at the gears in the side cover. Do they spin freely? Any obvious damage or debris?

DonTZ125 wrote:Ummm - I think so; haven't done it myself. First, though, you might want to drain the oil and pull the right side cover. The starter is now mechanically decoupled from the engine. Hit the starter button! Does the solenoid lock up, or chatter? Does the starter spin freely and fast?

Take a look at the gears in the side cover. Do they spin freely? Any obvious damage or debris?

I just took a break from work here and checked the solenoid. It just clicks and when I have the ignition and everything on, and try to jump start it, nothing happens. So im guessing a bad connection along the lines.

Sugoi,
Follow the heavy power wire from the battery=it goes direct to the starter solenoid.
I mean bridge/jump the solenoid terminals not the battery-this eliminates it and is easier/quicker than removing the tank to connect direct to starter.
It is a electro-mechanical switch.
If you have to change the starter,remove the tank for access,remove the cable,remove the two 6mm head bolts and pry it out towards the left,it is a lttle tight due to the O ring, it slots straight back in,sometimes you need to turn the shaft fractionally for the splines to engage.
Pull out the spare one as a practice.
Pretty sure it is the solenoid that has failed though,
Bill.

Page 223 of the clymer manual describes repair of this common fault perfectly.

Anyone here happen to have a spare solenoid they'd like to sell?

Thanks again for everyone's help! Greatly appreciated

Sugoi wrote:Anyone here happen to have a spare solenoid they'd like to sell?

Did it operate the starter when you jumped the solenoid ?