FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I picked up a 92 FZR600 for a couple hundred bucks. It was in pieces when I got it so i decided I might as well put a less worn engine in it (odo says 57k miles) and I'm almost done.

I have everything but fairings bolted back on, fresh fluids and a brand new battery hooked up. When I turn the key I get nothing, no lights, no clicks...nothing.

I double checked the battery, 12.7 volts. Polarity is correct (I used to get radio repeater batteries that were reversed polarity many times).

I checked every fuse I could find (5 fuses) and everything is good. The ground is good,

I have power into the starter relay, not that it helps much.

I hooked my meter up to the wires coming out of the ignition. (+) on red and (-) on brown gives me 12v, (-) on blue also gives me 12v, doesn't make sense to me.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Initial research points towards faulty VR but that doesn't make sense since none of the fuses are bad and I never get a flicker of power.

I really need help if anyone has the slightest idea.

Sent from my Nexus 7

Have you checked all the safety switches. Our bikes have three. The kickstand switch. The clutch switch an the neutral switch. To see if that's a factor at all I always suggest trying to start the bike with the stand up. The bike in gear. And then have the clutch pulled in. If that doesn't work make sure the kill switch isn't in the off position and if it's not but you have lights coming on you might need to crack that bad boy open to make sure it's not stuck.

Chris.

I have no power at all. Nothing changes when I turn the key. Its not a starting issue, its a turning on issue.

Sent from my Nexus 7

Oh sorry I read over that part I guess. Does the voltage change at all when you turn on the ignition or push the start button?
Chris.

No change at all.

Someone suggested it may be a faulty ignition switch but I have yet to find a way to test the theory.

It was the ignition switch. Pulled it off and tore it down, all the contact points were corroded and dirty. Cleaned it up and now it turns on, turns over and fires up with the choke on. Isn't running smooth and it backfires when I restart it. Dies if I try to turn the choke off or touch the throttle.

Got it to run with the choke off. Stutters a little when I first turn the throttle but seems ok after that. Looking for someone to help adjust the carbs.

http://youtu.be/pFhvouOyN_E

Can close this thread, I found the power problem.

Sounds like you need to set the float bowl float height......make sure equal across the four. the center two cyl may need to be a mm lower then the rest, depending on where the temp runs on that paticular bike.....



"four wheels moves the body,two wheels moves the soul"

Sorry to intrude on a solved issue, Ive lurked here for quite sometime and learnt lots

GrizFyrFyter wrote: I hooked my meter up to the wires coming out of the ignition. (+) on red and (-) on brown gives me 12v, (-) on blue also gives me 12v, doesn't make sense to me.

Was that with the main (key) switch turned on? If so you measured the voltage drop on the switch, the drop = 12V and it's quite obvious the switch was at fault, if the switch was working you would have got close to 0 Volts. The red wire is power in, the brown and blue wires are power out. If you ever come across this issue again test as follows. Key switch on, meter (+) on the red wire, meter (-) on battery neg, take the reading, keep the (-) on bat neg, move the (+) to the brown wire, then the blue wire, if you get 12V volts the the switch is fine, if you get 0 volts or low volts the switch is screwed.

GrizFyrFyter wrote:Got it to run with the choke off. Stutters a little when I first turn the throttle but seems ok after that. Looking for someone to help adjust the carbs.

Theres so much info here about carb cleaning/adjustment try a search, you could find your answer, wish I could help more