Far 600 rebuild

[et_miller_87]

Alright fellas. I got a good one that requires at least 2 cold ones and a few "hmps" and some crack scratchin.

So as most of you know I'm rebuilding this ol gal and took the cover off that houses the clutch cable and return spring. As I put the bike back together I put on said cover and cable. Now the clutch doesn't work properly. Pull the clutch and it won't roll while in gear. Is there a specific way to put it back together and is this a common problem?

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[DonTZ125]

Hmmm - yeah, that's a scratcher. Not an implication - I've had a few moron moments when assembling things over the years - but can I assume you've checked the adjusters at both ends of the cable, and made sure the cable is properly seated at both ends?

It's -possible- that the ball in the throw-out mechanism fell out when you pulled it off. It's supposed to be punch-staked in, but it does occasionally go for a walk. That's the only hard part I can see going for a walk, short of pulling out the push rod.

[et_miller_87]

Nope, I verified that the little a-hole ball was in there. I double checked that the cables were seated. I will say though, pulling the lever is a bit tougher. But no sharp bends or kinks. I'll go through it again tomorrow Nd bounce my install off the manual.

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[et_miller_87]

Problem after problem with this ol gal. Grrr

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[et_miller_87]

Well, once again I didn't get far today. Had some festivities going on with the neighbors. Got the throttle cable routing issue figured out, and kinda feel like a dummy for it. Got the new mirrors mounted. The new mSter cyclinder is installed.

I can't for the life of me get that bugger to build pressure! Let it gravity bleed for awhile and tried to bleed, but I can't get it to build pressure. Im afraid it's going to blow out the side again. Any tips or ideas what I could be doing wrong? Don't think I am but never hurts to ask.

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[DonTZ125]

Squeeze the lever, then zip tie it in place overnight. A lot of the little bubbles come out of solution under the sustained higher pressure, and then congregate at the typical trapping points where they get bigger and bleed-out-able.

[et_miller_87]

I had actually considered doing that. Just haven't done it. I got too far in a bottle of jack during my shennanegins. Decided playing with the bike was a bad idea.

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[et_miller_87]

Finally!! Air tech fairings have shipped!!!!!

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[et_miller_87]

Well I got the fairings in today. I must say I'm rather disappointed in the quality.

Both lowers have a crack in them and not to mention the imperfections in corners. The tail light piece just doesn't even remotely mimick the original.

Lesson learned I suppose.

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[et_miller_87]

New (to me ) calipers installed, clutch adjusted enough to use, and first ride down. Although, I ended up pushing the bike home. Battery I think is toast.

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[DonTZ125]

Unplug the VRR. With a set of jumpers, hook the bike up to a SWITCHED-OFF car / truck battery; start up and warm up. Bring the revs up to 3k rpm. Check the AC voltage across the 3 white wires at the VRR connector; measure the voltage across the wires in pairs (1-2, 2-3, 1-3). You should see 30-60vac across each pair.

If the stator is good, switch off, plug the VRR back in. Start up and bring the revs up to 3k again (you may need to boost it to start; disconnect the jumpers once running), measure the DC volts across the battery terminals. If you see less than 13.3vdc, the VRR has failed low. If it's higher than 14.5vdc, the VRR has failed high and is trying to destroy your electrical system.

[et_miller_87]

Yes, I actually just replacer the vrr due to 18.5 vdc straight to the battery. I think that's why my battery is toast these days. I do need to verify that I'm getting proper voltage to charge the battery now though. On the bright side, I didn't see any smoke coming from the new vrr so that's good too.

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[et_miller_87]

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[et_miller_87]

Welp. Looks like my brand new rr is bad. I read all of the wires from the stator and am getting minimum 30 vac at idle and up to 60 between all phases at any rev. As soon as I take the charger cable off, as I have to jump it, the motor dies. And I see less than 12 while it's running and no change when I rev it.

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[et_miller_87]

I looked in the stickies for a how to on checking the vrr for correct ohm readings but didn't see it. Using this photo
I'll explain what I did. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Both top pins and the bottom right are wires from the stator. I checked each of these pins across and got 1.1 M ohms across the three (1-2 1-3 2-3) next I checked for the diode inside. Negative on case, pos on bottom left pin. Overload. Pos on case, neg on bottom left pin, current flowed. To me, that seems like the flow is backwards. Is the vrr correct on the diode placement or is it backwards?

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