Disappointed with new SS Lines/R6s MC/Blue Dots

[Burtonrider10022]

SO! I figured I'd drop an update in here. The brakes are performing very, very well now. They stop much better than the old stockers. However, I still don't have anywhere near the described abilities. That back tire wouldn't be able to get off the ground without a jet pack. Brakes are bled, but I suppose one more time wouldn't hurt... Overall, I am satisfied with them, but that sure was a LOT of money to spend to just be satisfied.

[pefrey]

The problem with not being able to get the rear tire off the ground is probably due to the front suspension. Every time you apply more pressure, the nose dives more. If you had a stiffer front suspension the nose would not dive so much and the rear would lift.

It's better to keep the rear wheel on the ground.

Thanks for the update, I hate when people leave a topic hanging. I'm glad it worked out for you.

[fzrbrandon]

Burton - +1 to Pefrey's comments.

The problem with not being able to get the rear tire off the ground is probably due to the front suspension. Every time you apply more pressure, the nose dives more. If you had a stiffer front suspension the nose would not dive so much and the rear would lift.

. I mentioned this fact in my previous post (regarding my 400).

It's better to keep the rear wheel on the ground.

Also agreed. Remember, I was pulling this monkey-business on my track bike in a track-riding scenario. The street is not the appropriate place for this.

Thanks for the update, I hate when people leave a topic hanging. I'm glad it worked out for you.

Thrice agreed. Good (or at least better) brakes are always a good thing,

[haro504]

Air rises so it's hard to get the bobbles out at the bottom of the line at the caliper. A vacuum system that sucks the fluid in at the bleeder would work well but an alternative is to take the calipers off, put something between the pads to keep them from closing all the way. Then have someone else raise them as high as you can so the air gos up to the calipers then bleeds them above the master. It takes some effort but should get all the air out

[Burtonrider10022]

, sorry for the "update" and then disappear again. I just replaced the forks with some nice RaceTech springs, so it's quite stiff. As for lifting the rear tire, I didn't actually TRY to do so, and especially not on the street. I bought and use the bike mostly for its fuel economy, and I'm too "scared" to ride like and ass most of the time. After all, I'm just a young kid with a bright future, but I don't need that line in the news paper headlines.

So, yeah, another update, brakes still work well enough, but never really lived up to the hype. I think my MC is weaksauce. Now I have to figure out why my clutch lever is so damn tight... I guess I get to adjust it, AGAIN.

[DonTZ125]

Don't just adjust the lever - adjust the throwout mechanism down at the sprocket cover. Make sure the adjuster locknut is snugged.

If you can't maintain adjustment, you may have welded or snapped the pushrods and / or the ball.

[Burtonrider10022]

Well, I may have, honestly. I couldn't find any other instructions than the Wiki and I thought they were a bit vague... Nut loosened, screw loosened then tightened, and backed out 1/4 turn after first tension. I wasn't really sure how "snug" the nut should be afterwards. Also, I have no idea how to adjust the lever, everyone and everything just says "follow your manual." Well, gee, thanks, the bike is 18 years old, it doesn't HAVE a manual.

[GreyImport]

http://www.fzrarchives.com/online_manuals.html

[yamaha_george]

Guys,
Yeh air in the line will always make the brakes feel vague & squishy..

Somewhere along time back i did write that if you do a "blue dot" swap then for goodness sake use TWO lines straight from the calipers with NO junction block but going to a double banjo bolt WITH bleed screw in built at the Master cylinder.
That way having to leave the system stressed over night is NOT required

SEE PICS @ :-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/frontbrakes.html

[Burtonrider10022]

Guys,
Yeh air in the line will always make the brakes feel vague & squishy..

Somewhere along time back i did write that if you do a "blue dot" swap then for goodness sake use TWO lines straight from the calipers with NO junction block but going to a double banjo bolt WITH bleed screw in built at the Master cylinder.
That way having to leave the system stressed over night is NOT required

SEE PICS @ :-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/frontbrakes.html

That IS how mine was run. 1 line left caliper all the way to MC, 1 line right caliper all the way to MC, 1 banjo bolt through both lines and into MC. Washers where necessary, fluid inside, bike rubber side down.

[Burtonrider10022]

http://www.fzrarchives.com/online_manuals.html

Well I never said I looked for it!


but I figured it was out there somewhere, just haven't been riding much and didn't take the time to look.

[yamaha_george]

going to a double banjo bolt WITH bleed screw in built at the Master cylinder.
That way having to leave the system stressed over night is NOT required

SEE PICS @ :-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/frontbrakes.html

That IS how mine was run. 1 line left caliper all the way to MC, 1 line right caliper all the way to MC, 1 banjo bolt through both lines and into MC. Washers where necessary, fluid inside, bike rubber side down.

Hi,
That was NOT what you did, UNLESS you omitted in your statement the double banjo bolt had a bleed nipple within it as shown in my link.
Which is why the your system had all the usual hassle with air in the system.

[HybridSport600]

hello, I alwas do whats called a Full cirle bleed, connect all lines and position the calipers so the bleeder is pointing upwards, then run a clear hose from the bleeder valve all the way back to the resivoir and submerge it in the fluib (cap off), keeping it in the fluid. then pum it repeatdly, wou will notice the line filling up with fluid, this is what you want, just keep the master full as you empty it, what you want is to complete a "circle loop" of fluid that will continously flow as you pump it. this full flow will dislodge any trapped air in the system the longer you pump it this way. I have a shop and this is all we do for any line removal part replacement. if you get alot of black cloudy spots of fluid in it, expect on replacing the seals at the master cyl. the fluid emurses itself into the rubber over time and will actually melt the rubber and send it into the system. try this for about 20min or until you run a full 2 cup amount of fluid all the way thoriugh it. Let me know..

[yamaha_george]

You must certainly have time on your hands in that shop my boys used the top bleed method and brake line full rebuilds were charged at ONE hour,ie take off old lines replace with SS lines re-fill and bleed , new pads if required. any time after that I would describe as taking a liberty with customers money and i was not gonna give a tech money for faffing about for stuff i could not re-coup. The old company we took over from paid its staff 300 a week but only did work worth 900 -1thou a week with 12 techs.
My company paid 6 guys 600 -900 a week each and they did 10K a week in work in a bad week most weeks were 15K .
The company shared the profits with its staff we sent them abroad on tuition trips with Yamaha etc.a very happy crew my chief tech retired and went to Uni the second best now runs the business and has made eight fold what i ran it at has all the govt bike fleets army police you name it. plus now he imports his own lines we coverd 1/2 acre lot he has afour acre warehouse & service area.

[HybridSport600]

Hi george, is this a "mines bigger than yours" kind of thing with you? just wondering, all i was telling him was there are some bikes and/or combination of factors that inhibit the flow of air in the system, and this is a full proof way to end all the headache. And yes I have great confidence in my techs and thier work, this being said I have several that i will pay endlesly as long as the job is correct the first time, and my customers are happy. i have even ate the costs of labor sometimes and so have my techs. We put great pride and service into what we do. we have many tech that range from harley cert, all the way down the line to guys from your side of the pond that are verry good at nortons,Bsa..etc.. I dont care as many other members probably dont care about how much money you make/or made. In the end its all about what we love to do, and the fact you like to show your man hood and status on this site. im not talking about your work quality, but your character, and George....Im not impressed.


"Four wheels moves the body, two wheels moves the soul