Starting up after 2 years !!!!!!! HELP !!!!!!!!!

[fizzer6hundred]

Hummm good points. How do I check for good spark or proper operation of the ignition system? I used to take the plug out of my lawn mower and hold it against the chassis to view the spark but that was on a low voltage system pretty crude and not so dangerous.

Visually all is in excellent condition this bike has only 3542 miles on it!!!! Its problem is due to sitting not wear or exposure. This is why I suspect the carb pilot circuit more than anything else.

Can I measure the voltage at the igniter? I have a DMM...........

[fizzer6hundred]

Found on page 6-2 Haynes manual A DIY "SPARK PLUG GAP TEST FIXTURE"! Min gap for the system to jump is 6mm. This is a great device!!!!!!!!!!

[apsolus]

why nt put your jets in the othr set of carbs then install and see if itworks, hey wait aminute. your carbs are jettet correctly ight? moving on, why dont yo do that so that way if itdoes fix th problem you wont have to remove the carbs and install the other carbs again? sounds logical to me. you gotta get to those idle mixture screws man, ive heard they like to wiggle loose over time

[thatkid]

Ah You have a manual, great news. Judging by your first posts I knew you had experience (were not a novice).

Take a look @ page 5-10, the exploded view of the carbs which is good but also inaccurate!

Then take a look here http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600rd-19 ... /B-05.html Click the + sign to expand the diagram

Take note of

12: 3EN1423900 SEAL << Under the diaphragm cover
16: 1FN1414700 O-RING
29: 12R1410500 PILOT SCREW SET << there's the screw, spring, small metal washer, then a rubber o-ring.
37: 1AE1422700 O-RING << under the Main Jet & not shown in the Haynes Manual.

Those small parts are easily lost/misplaced, especially if you blast and airline or carb cleaner through the passages, ask me how I know

If the bike is now running, adjust the idle so it will run without stalling (say 1500 RPM). With insulated pliers remove 1 plug lead take note of the RPM's replace the plug lead, repeat on the other 3 cylinders. If all 4 cylinders are performing equally the RPM drop will or should also be equal. Another test is to check the exhaust header temperatures which will not be equal but should be close.

Good luck.

[fizzer6hundred]

Thanks Mauler will make sure I take care of those little parts as well.

[thatkid]

You Sir are very welcome, keep us all updated with your progress.

There's great minds on this forum, who will/can help you with almost any issue on these bike's.

Another thing has sprang to mind, regarding the carbs. You may have already addressed the issue, but just incase you haven't.

Have you cleared/cleaned the Main Air Jet (none removable without tools so don't take it out), the Pilot Air Jet & the Pilot Jet. If those are blocked your carb is no longer a carb, but merely a piece of junk

http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr600rd-19 ... /B-05.html

33: 4G01414232A0 JET. PILOT (#32.5) << Jet size is European
34: 8301423A77 JET.PILOT AIR #132.5 << ignore the Jet size they are both European, US version do differ, The Main Air Jet is located in the orifice adjacent to this Jet

[fizzer6hundred]

Quick question on this Mikuni. Is the air fuel mixture screw is in rich (less air) and out lean (more air)? I still have the original caps on and so its possible these are gummed up causing my problems. Not sure why I never looked at these........

[thatkid]

Out is richer, In is leaner. I.E. counter clockwise = rich, clockwise = lean.

The caps are they brass? if so carefully drill them (a small drill bit) then pry them out.

[fizzer6hundred]

Ah ok out is rich then if cloged would run lean possible clue here.

Not sure if they are brass but they do have a small starter hole I can open up slightly and use a wood crew to pull off.

[fizzer6hundred]

Talked to the great people at Factory Pro got some tips ordered some new pilot jets and just got them.

Finally able to get some time to not have to work 12 hour days at work all week and was able to work on the bike. Man this suckazz economy is really starting to get to me..........

Anyway I took off the old set that I will rebuild and clean and swapped the full set with one I bought used last year. I replaced the fuel filter and added fresh gas ........ And bingo she fired up and idled fine. ran it for 8-10 minutes or so lots of smoke but she sounded just like she used too.

So now I know its the original carburetor set as opposed to some thing non-related that was causing the low end idle issue. I am now sure I can fix the original carb set and in the mean time I can run the bike and use it until I get the bench time I need work the original set. The original is jetted and would like them back on.

It will probably be a while since I have to work all the dam time.

Thanks guys for the help I am pumped I got it running again and happy to get on it soon!

Oh and I suppose the smoke was the valves and rings starting to re-seat ????? Draining the oil now and will add fresh oil tomorrow.

[yamaha_george]

F,
good news in deed, the smoke as you say is the engine getting it self sorted, our American fans seem to swear by Seafoam for helping the engine re-seating its "bits" you might wanna give it ago.

[fizzer6hundred]

Well I put some fresh Mobile1 4T Motorcycle oil in and a fresh filter. Started her up and after she reached temperature she had 0 smoke. This is a great sign. After doing my safety check I noticed:

1. The break system should be drained and re-filled and bleed-ed. I have done this for my cars.
Q. I assume nothing special in bleeding the brakes? Any hints or tips here?
2. There is some glaze just from spinning around the block several times.
Q. I am wondering if I should swirl up the rotors with emery cloth?
3. Lastly the off idle throttle response is slow (no I have not synchronized the carbs). There is hesitation but it runs good and sounds fine other than this.
Q. What items should I be looking at that might be causing the lag in throttle up response off idle? I am thinking synchronization but I am sure there are some other things.

Sorry for so many questions......

[thatkid]

The smoke could have been gummed up oil control rings, so that's a good sign.

1. Apparently these bikes can be problematic when bleeding the brakes. If you have difficulty this is a good read http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=b ... _5_minutes

2. Hmmmm... duno on that one.

3. Let the engine bed in (rings valves). I've fitted brand new engines, adjusted the carbs. Then taken a test drive only to have to adjust the carbs again

When your sure the ignition system/compressions are up to scratch, measure the exhaust header temps they should all be hot (but not equal temps) then synch the carbs and adjust the mixture screws. That could solve the issue.

Good Luck
Mal.

[sweekster]

The smoke could have been gummed up oil control rings, so that's a good sign.

1. Apparently these bikes can be problematic when bleeding the brakes. If you have difficulty this is a good read http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=b ... _5_minutes

2. Hmmmm... duno on that one.

3. Let the engine bed in (rings valves). I've fitted brand new engines, adjusted the carbs. Then taken a test drive only to have to adjust the carbs again

When your sure the ignition system/compressions are up to scratch, measure the exhaust header temps they should all be hot (but not equal temps) then synch the carbs and adjust the mixture screws. That could solve the issue.

Good Luck
Mal.

What he said.

[yamaha_george]

hi,
Synching the carbs is a must to sort that can be sorted. (ie actually hi light if there is aREAL problem with carbs.

Cleaning the disks with emery hmm not courser than 600 or you use the SO's scotchbrite pan cleaner rub ACROSS the disk NOT round the disk

Brake bleeding I would buy a Banjo Bolt with bleed nipple at the Master Cylinder (make sure you say it is for YAMAHA as Suzuki have a diff thread ) .

I practice what I preach see:-
http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/frontbrakes.html

This can work wether you bring both LH & RH lines to the master cylinder (easiest to bleed) or you have the original set up. If you have the original set up (bout time to replace the old rubbers) then a nippled bolt on each is good as air tends to "catch" in the splitter box