I'm still working on my bike :( ..and other things

[sweekster]

****as far as the forks go..that custom tool that I have to make, is the nut on the end of the all thread really 5/8 (16mm), that's a bit large to be on the inside of the fork tube. Something up with the wiki-thread about replacing the fork seals, I remember it mentioning the nut on the end of the thread being 5/8, is that the head of the nut? I went to double check and couldn't read the wiki.

Here is the fork tool I made when I did the seals on my old 600. I'm sure someone else will chime with their version of it or doing a search might yield something else.



it's a 3ft x 5.8th threaded rod and 6 nuts. Two nuts locked at the bottom (this end goes inside the fork to hold the damper rod in place) and 4 nuts locked together higher up the rod to act as a handle. The PVC tube in the pic is used as the seal driver.

[match417]

great idea for mounting that radiator, looks like a nice easy bracket to make.

It was incredibly easy to mount it, the strips of metal are galvanized metal strips. Someone was throwing away a 4 ft long piece at a hotel that's being remodeled, my company is doing some electrical there, I saw it laying with scraps, so I snagged it. It's easy to bend too, I just used a hammer and screwdriver to crease the metal, then bent it by hand. And the bottom bracket bolts right into the case once you take off the oil filter and nut.

[yamaha_george]

****as far as the forks go..that custom tool that I have to make, is the nut on the end of the all thread really 5/8 (16mm), that's a bit large to be on the inside of the fork tube. Something up with the wiki-thread about replacing the fork seals, I remember it mentioning the nut on the end of the thread being 5/8, is that the head of the nut? I went to double check and couldn't read the wiki.

Here is the fork tool I made when I did the seals on my old 600. I'm sure someone else will chime with their version of it or doing a search might yield something else.


it's a 3ft x 5.8th threaded rod and 6 nuts. Two nuts locked at the bottom (this end goes inside the fork to hold the damper rod in place) and 4 nuts locked together higher up the rod to act as a handle. The PVC tube in the pic is used as the seal driver.

Hi,
Yup mine is at :-

http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/fork.html

[match417]

so the tool is a 5/8th threaded rod with a 24mm nut on the end? I still can't read the "fork seal replacement" thread in the wiki. There is only one post in the thread that reads, "We strive to provide the most up to date and informative material for the FZR community. If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions related to the content you've just read in the WIKI feel free to post it here".

[delvryboy]

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=208

[match417]

oh, thanks..I guess I was clicking on the wrong link..

[yamaha_george]

so the tool is a 5/8th threaded rod with a 24mm nut on the end?

Hi,

NO the trouble with a round or threaded bar is it will not hold steady in the vice.

The vice holds the square bar you hold the weight of the fork leg on the tool and the other hand holds & turns the allen key no faffng about.

see pictures of it being used at the original link I gave .

[match417]

thanks for the info..so what's the size of the nut on the end? Is it 24mm? I just want to be sure before I make the tool. My forks are apart and waiting. I got desperate and tried to make the tool out of my slightly bent YFZ600 fork innards, didn't work though.

[reelrazor]

Put the spring back in the fork leg, put the preload spacer in, screw the fork leg cap on,

Then use an allen socket to turn the lower bolt out.

Always, always crack that bolt loose with the springs in place.

The preload of the spring acts as the damping rod holder. I have NEVER used a damping rod holder tool for a single pair of forks in 28 years of bike wrenching.

[yamaha_george]

Put the spring back in the fork leg, put the preload spacer in, screw the fork leg cap on,

Then use an allen socket to turn the lower bolt out.

Always, always crack that bolt loose with the springs in place.

The preload of the spring acts as the damping rod holder. I have NEVER used a damping rod holder tool for a single pair of forks in 28 years of bike wrenching.

RR,
all I can say is you have been lucky, Factory forks have loctite substance on them and Yamaha are well aware of this as they supply a fork tool.

Also you neglected to say put the fork leg BACK in the triples and tighten up else some could put the fork leg in a vice and do serious damage.
This has been covered before.

As to the size of nut used at the end, it plainly states on the page I referred to it should be 24mm across the flats

[reelrazor]

RR,
all I can say is you have been lucky, Factory forks have loctite substance on them and Yamaha are well aware of this as they supply a fork tool.

Also you neglected to say put the fork leg BACK in the triples and tighten up else some could put the fork leg in a vice and do serious damage.
This has been covered before.

As to the size of nut used at the end, it plainly states on the page I referred to it should be 24mm across the flats

With 14 techs at the yama/suzi dealer I worked at for years, i NEVER saw the damping rod tools used. I'm aware of the blue patch loctite they use, the harley forks have it embedded in their damping rod bolts. Worst case, you point a propane torch (available in Walmart/kmart for the price of threaded rod and nuts and works for ALL forks) at the head of the bolt for about 30 seconds before unthreading

[the_finch]

I have my forks disassembled right now, utilizing a fork tool a la Yamaha George: a 4 ft piece of 1"x1.5" flat bar (scrap from work) with a nut measuring 24mm accross the flats welded to the end.

I put the tool in the vise, inserted it into the fork to hold everything in place, then used a long hex drive for the socket bolt on the bottom that holds the damping rod in place.

I'll see if I can't get a picture uploaded to photobucket.

[match417]

so I tried using an allen wrench with the forks back together, insides just spun freely. I need to use an impact wrench, and RR, yamaha techs use an impact wrench or air ratchet to spin the nut loose, that's why the dampening rod tool is never used, I don't think the same thing can be done with an allen wrench unless the forks have been taken apart before and the lock-tite seal is broken. I either need an impact (my friend has one but he's camping with his fam) or the tool. So i'll just wait until my friend gets back and use his tools.

[yamaha_george]

Match,
Our Yamaha service when we took over the franchise had our tools inspected by Yamaha Reps from japan and our impact air tool almost lost us the contract!!!

They described it as "barbaric" to even suggest their wonderful Product should ever be touched by such a thing. Hence the provision of the specialist tool at 50 % off normal cost.

Just as well that I had lived in Japan and could speak enough Japanese to gain "face" which allowed me to keep a straight face during negotiations over the tooling.
It was providential that i was the buyer or the franchise would have been moved to another island, the Japs were that pissed at the previous owners sloppy workmanship.

The guy who has it now is one of my original trainee mechanics and he has taken it to a bigger operation than I had, he is native to the island so he gets more govt help than I being a mear foreigner.

As for propane yup I just love the smell of burned laquer first thing in the morning.

[Genesis]

What will I need for the Oil cooler and bracket, what year YZF did you use, I have a 05 YZF radiator now.