Electrical Issues and More

[McLurch]

It turned out that the starter clutch was messed up so it busted the gear. A new yzf starter clutch and gear solved the starting problem.

Now I have a starting issue. I can run the bike until the battery is dead. I have two questions, my buddy had a buel and said his bike didn't charge until he was running over so many rpm. I left my volt meter at one of my job sites and I haven't been back in over two weeks so I can't exactly check the ohms or anything on the stator. But I did have a busted wire going to the little thing-a-ma-jig that I re spliced and added a silicone dolphin and I redid the connections to the wiring harness with new weatherproof quick disconnectors.

At what rpm does the stator charge the system or is it always charging?

Will a yzf stator fit on a fzr?


Here are the stators I am thinking about buying
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-1989-199 ... 4897.l4275

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YAMAHA-YZF6 ... 4897.l4275

http://racetechelectric.com/i-8156024-y ... tator.html

[DonTZ125]

A YZF stator will fit the FZR *but* the crank pickup wires are reversed. You'll need to swap the two wires, or you'll never get spark.

It's more likely that your VRR is fried than your stator; have you followed the Voltage Regulator Troubleshooting Chart?

[McLurch]

Kind of. The first thing I did to the bike was buy the new and improved voltage regulator, cut the old connections and make new ones.

[DonTZ125]

Hmmm ... Three white wires to white wires, red to red, black on a dedicated 12ga wire back to the cylinder block?

[McLurch]

Not exactly, I just wired it into the wiring harness. Whites to whites, red to red/white I think and black to white/black I think. I was pretty sure wires were matching, almost like it was the original stator. Some dumbass wired in a trailer connector to replace the factor connection.

Is it worth grounding it specifically to the engine block, both the stator and the voltage regulator?

[DonTZ125]

WOW. Red/White is the switched/fused +12v downstream of the ignition switch; that could be why your battery is draining overnight. White/Black ... that's one of the crank pickup wires??

Can you put up a pic, or email a pic of your VRR connector and wiring?

The stator should NOT be grounded. There are 3 wires from 3 windings in delta arrangement, putting out AC. Connecting that to the ground side of your DC electrical system will do bad things to just about everything.

[McLurch]

the black wire is connected to one of the bolts connecting the VR to the frame.

Maybe it is a white wire with a red line and a white wire with a black line and three white wires coming off of the stator.

[DonTZ125]

Ahhhh, nuts.

You've fried your VRR. The OEM 4-pin regulator grounds through the body. The later 5- and 6-pin VRRs have an actual ground pin (top right as you look at the pins) that must be connected to ground - preferably the engine block or the battery -ve terminal.

[McLurch]

No way... So because it wasn't grounded through the pin it has been fried?

[DonTZ125]

Yup. A bad ground is the fastest way to kill a shunt VRR, and it looks like yours didn't have ANY ground.

[McLurch]

Well that really sucks. I only have about three hours on the bike idling and revving it to try and set air/fuel. Is there any sort of hope that it's not toast? Would the only symptom be that it is not charging?

[DonTZ125]

Oh, the rest of it's fine - I'm trying to picture how UNDER-charging would screw anything up. So long as the battery was reasonably charged when you were doing your tuning, nothing much would change.

[McLurch]

Yeah the rest of the bike is running. Since I corrected the grounding issue it has been running for about twenty minutes no issues. The head lights are brighter when it is running versus just being on.

[DonTZ125]

Bring it up to 5k rpm, and check the voltage across the battery terminals - you might have gotten lucky!

[McLurch]

She lives!!! I was able to take her out on Saturday and able to ride around for over an hour and a half. She is still not exactly acting right.

The biggest issue is the front brakes. they are still not as firm as they need to be. just going about 25 in a parking lot i wasn't able to stop as quick as i should. I think the rear brake has more stopping power then the front. I am hoping zip tieing the front brake lever open will help get a nice firm lever. Otherwise i will probably just order a complete set, master cylinder, brake lines and calipers already connected. Maybe it is just the master cylinder but it wouldn't hurt to have a spare set of calipers.

I still think a carb syncing is in order. I was able to get rid of the backfire with adjusting the air/fuel screws. I am still thinking something is out a whack with the carbs. A shop wants about $80 to sync the carbs and adjust air/fuel ratio but i can order a sync tool for the same money. Does anyone think it is worth taking it into the shop?

Thanks for all the input so far.