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[DonTZ125]

Parts washer vendors tend to use a proprietary mix so they can charge you more, but kerosene and diesel oil are common options.

There should be TEN numbers on the crank (6 journals + 4 conrods), with 6 numbers on the cases. The Yellow bearing shell is the Yellow, but you definitely want to Plastigauge everything anyway.

[Lastmile]

Alright my crank reads 1111122222. The manual says, " the crankshaft is marked on the left hand counterbalance with 5 sets of numbers that relate to the crankshaft main bearing journals
The group of 4 right-handed numbers relates to the crank shaft connecting rod journals- do not reference these 4 numbers"
Now I'm good enough with the numbers to know the 4+5 does not equal 10.
Now if I take that extra two and subtract the five from it I'll come up with a no. 3 (brown)
Which is possible, but that band does have a yellow color in it. Though I don't know the effect of 20 years of oil on the color yellow.

[DonTZ125]

The manual text says 5, but the pic next to it shows 6; also, the parts fiche shows 12 shell halves. You have 6 numbers for the journals (111112) and 4 numbers for the conrods (2222). What are the numbers on your case? What are the numbers on your conrods? Bear in mind, you need to decide NOW which conrod goes where!

[Lastmile]

Normally I would have to decide on the con rods, but they are all marked 5e. So by my reasoning all the con rod bearings should be the same. The crank case numbers are 666565. We must have different manuals. My picture on the next page and it appears to have the number sets set apart. Where on my crankshaft all the numbers are ran together without any diffinitive gap. The picture also shows a group of 5 and a group of 4. So from left to right my bearings should be 555453. Is there a certain engine gasket set preferable to others. I am not considering the terrifyingly cheap Chinese ones I've come across.

[Lastmile]

Things still aren't making sense. The crank case numbers read 666565, but they are up-side down. Check the rest of the bearings and there colors are BYGYYY. That's from left to right if I was sitting on the bike with the motor the right way up. Which still doesn't make sense. I'm either missing a step or the bearings where installed in the reverse order. I'm going to order those bearings and plastigauge it twice probably.

[Lastmile]

I was cleaning the case and found some rubbing of the case. There is only rubbing on the lower half of the case. There is a build up from the rubbing that extends above the lower case half. The upper case doesn't have any signs of rubbing. I posted pictures on to facebook.

[Lastmile]

I finally got some time to atart reassembling the engine. I got the case halves back together yesterday and started to put the pistons on when I noticed there's a difference between the two compression rings. I didn't notice a difference with the old ones, but they were pretty dirty. Does anyone know which ring goes on top? I tried reading through the yzf site but couldn't find anything that answered the question. As always I am thankful for any help you guys can proved.

[tclayton9]

what is the difference that are you are noticing?

[Lastmile]

I can't get the picture to down size so I put it up on the facebook group. I thought I had put got it into that last post, but it didn't. Thanks for looking.

[Lastmile]

I found this on the yzf forum when I thought of a new way to phrase the search.

"there is a slight difference in clearances between the rings

make sure you push the rings into the cylinder the same distance, then measure the end gap with a feeler gauge.

The top ring end gap spec is .006" to .012" (.15-.3 mm)
Second ring end gap spec is .010" to .016" (.25-.4 mm)

So there should be a measurable difference in the two rings.

[Lastmile]

I got the pistons in the cylinders last Saturday, then broke my arm on Sunday. So unfortunately the fzr will have to wait again, but fortunately there isn't really a winter in California. The doctor is putting a plate in me tomorrow. Then only 6 weeks until the cast is removed,hopefully.

[Lastmile]

Well I have the cast off and the wrist is well enough to turn a wrench. So I went to put on the head, and noticed that I had neglected to put on the timing chain. So I started to tear down the motor again and go to thinking. Does anyone know if the connecting link on the timing chain can be removed. It's not something I want to have go bad later, but I thought it was worth the question.