96 fzr 600 just purchased today!

[Valhalla_fzr96]

It was the solenoid I put the new one on and started right up. I was pretty sure it was but figured I would ask thank you

[yamaha_george]

It was the solenoid I put the new one on and started right up. I was pretty sure it was but figured I would ask thank you

V,
Glad it's sorted and now you can RIDE again

[Valhalla_fzr96]

Well now I have a new problem and its a huge one. As I was shifting to second I heard a clank and the bike acted as if it was in neutral and as I looked down I saw a rusty colored fluid leaking out underneath where the clutch is. The bike still runs and everything but doesn't move so im assuming its the hole clutch pack or something. I plan to fix it myself but im definitely gonna need some info and maybe someone tell me exactly what to be looking at as the culprit. This is definitely my luck right now even at work it seems like everything I touch with a motor seems to drop dead lmao I can fix about anything but right now im feeling like the damn motor reaper

[yamaha_george]

Well now I have a new problem and its a huge one. As I was shifting to second I heard a clank and the bike acted as if it was in neutral and as I looked down I saw a rusty colored fluid leaking out underneath where the clutch is. The bike still runs and everything but doesn't move so im assuming its the hole clutch pack or something. I plan to fix it myself but im definitely gonna need some info and maybe someone tell me exactly what to be looking at as the culprit. This is definitely my luck right now even at work it seems like everything I touch with a motor seems to drop dead lmao I can fix about anything but right now im feeling like the damn motor reaper

Yo Reaper WE all get patches like this, I was talking to my electronic guru yesterday his Ipad mini died and he plugged in a new solid state drive in his computer & the whole shooting match failed to start.
PSU down ,Mobo down , chip fried ???

Ok back to your immediate problem.
A:) did you change oil when you got the bike? (I think I mentioned note books & changing all fluids recently)
B:) the fluid is in FACT oily to touch or watery ?
C: ) in your boots I would drain the oil into a VERY CLEAN container just to see what I was getting out the clutch and gear box area
D:) For peace of mind I would open the radiator filler to inspect the coolant surface for oil (best to be sure)
E:) FZR do tend to be iffy about 2nd gear with "false" neutrals but since she fails to engage any gear it does sound clutch orientated.

There is a HOW To:- in the Wiki about clutch work without removing too much (ie if the oil was still good, which from your words seem doubtful )

Silly question when you pull the clutch lever does everything move with some resistance ? not just of the cable failing by vibration back off on the adjusters?

Good luck keep us informed

S & F
George

[Valhalla_fzr96]

I haven't pulled anything apart but I am pretty sure its done for when I heard that pop it started leaking from the clutch cover like really bad pretty much all of it I have talked to a few friends that work on bikes alot and all of them say something probably broke and may have cracked that cover thankfully the whole kits is fairly inexpensive so I'm not to worried but there seems to be no resistance at all in the clutch handle and I did change all the fluids except for that impaticular one as I didnt know it was seperate

[yamaha_george]

I haven't pulled anything apart but I am pretty sure its done for when I heard that pop it started leaking from the clutch cover like really bad pretty much all of it I have talked to a few friends that work on bikes alot and all of them say something probably broke and may have cracked that cover thankfully the whole kits is fairly inexpensive so I'm not to worried but there seems to be no resistance at all in the clutch handle and I did change all the fluids except for that impaticular one as I didnt know it was seperate

V,
If the case popped I would be suprised, gasket separation more likely with pressure.

The good news is that any competent welder can weld the case up BUT remember to find the sharp end of the crack and drill a small hole (2mm ) there, this stops the crack from getting bigger when the weld cools, then weld the hole shut.

If the bike is upright when you pull the clutch cover expect a fair amount of oil still, when you disassemble LOOK at what you are doing the clutch basket cover plate if memory serves only goes on a certain way.Replace the springs as well as wet plates ,probably both are 20 + years old . The steel plates should be checked for warpage & wear (blue-ing).

When you pull out the push rod be sure all of it comes out (the ball bearing tends to fry/ wear out / break ) use a magnetic tipped LONG screw driver to be sure.

Good Luck
Y-Geo

PS soak new wet plates in clean oil BEFORE assembly for 24 Hours ! or your new clutch may not last very long !

[Valhalla_fzr96]

Ok so I haven't really looked closely at what broke on my bike until today been having some medical issues lately with my back injury and now a knee injury to add to the mix but today I went out and noticed hey theres no chain (slap my forehead) but when I started it oil was coming out where the clutch case cover is so it may be possible that my chain just snapped and the clutch is fine but I dont understand why oil is leaking unless when it snapped it cracked something. So what do I do from here?

[yamaha_george]

V,
You need to clean the underside of the engine and behind the front sprocket shield which are the most likely of damage by a flailing chain.

Lay the bike to the left to get a good view of the underside then check the sprocket area by standing the bike up again.

I know that your back hurts so be careful laying the bike over & pulling it back up take an old mans advice get two buddies to do it for you.The back does heal but because it load bears 24/7 it is VERY slow to heal so putting any extra strain is a definite NO NO in case your wondering why I am preaching is i broke my back 4 years ago and it is still very tender even now with 3 years of Physio and an ex- military mentality !
S & F
Y-G

[Mikey]

I'll add to the excellent advice you've already received. The clutch cover is on the right of the bike, were the clutch cable attaches on the left side of the engine is the front sprocket cover. Behind that cover is the long clutch push rod it's seal and also the water pump. Snapped chains are known to snap the long push rod damage it's seal and damage the casing where the seal fits causing an oil leak and as you say " no resistance at all in the clutch handle". it's rare but at times when the chain snaps it can smash the water pump obviously causing it to leak coolant.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, I just thought you should be armed with all possible scenarios before you dig deeper and repair the problem. Good luck, I hope it's an easy fix so you can get some riding time soon.

EDIT: if and I'm quite sure that your long clutch push rod has snapped, the only way that I know to remove it, is to remove the clutch cover (right hand side of the engine) remove the clutch pressure plate, get the short clutch push rod out make sure the ball bearing doesn't fall out and gets lost. Then with any thin instrument I.E. a 3mm welding rod push the remainder of the snapped long push rod out. It's bimetallic and inch or so of hardened steel (the part that a snapped chain breaks off) then around 5 inches of aluminium so a magnet won't get it out on the sprocket cover side, the final part of the long push rod is steel and about a half inch long. As previously mentioned the clutch pressure plate will fit in 5 different positions, only one position works, there's a arrow on the pressure plate that must line up with the dot on the clutch hub. Do not forget this part, when installing the new long clutch push rod the ball bearing and the short clutch push rod, make sure you oil/lube all 3 of them, if you don't it's back to square one. The ball bearing WILL get welded to the long push rod causing it to snap yet again!

[yamaha_george]

Mikey,
thanks i knew there was something worrying me about the push rod "the fact it is bi-metal" would be why I had avague feeling someone had said along time ago that the magnet will not always work .
Thanks for stepping in and clarifying that.
Y_G

[Valhalla_fzr96]

Just an update due to some unfortunate bouts with medical issues I had to put the bike on hold for a bit. Recently I came pretty close to a heart attack and I'm only 26 but very fit. They think it was genetic. Also possibly getting knee surgery (meniscus tear no big deal) but I finally got around to repairing as I tore everything apart I discovered my water pump was shredded so replaced that. Then I put a new chain on and now only thing left is the push rod which lucky for me just the end snapped pretty flush with the chamber so getting a new oil seal and waiting on the rod from the U.K. My next bit after this is flushing the radiator again and then changing the oil and plugs. So with a bit of luck I will be back on the road in about a week. Wooo Hooo hope all is well and as always thanks guys for all the help

[yamaha_george]

Just an update due to some unfortunate bouts with medical issues I had to put the bike on hold for a bit. Recently I came pretty close to a heart attack and I'm only 26 but very fit. They think it was genetic. Also possibly getting knee surgery (meniscus tear no big deal) but I finally got around to repairing as I tore everything apart I discovered my water pump was shredded so replaced that. Then I put a new chain on and now only thing left is the push rod which lucky for me just the end snapped pretty flush with the chamber so getting a new oil seal and waiting on the rod from the U.K. My next bit after this is flushing the radiator again and then changing the oil and plugs. So with a bit of luck I will be back on the road in about a week. Wooo Hooo hope all is well and as always thanks guys for all the help

V,
sorry to hear the worrying news about the heart condition as you say the kinee with the right treatment and after care especially is a doddle.

Your bike bits can be anything from 3 days to 10 days delivery depending on your "tax" man, you do the plugs in the mean time . Do not be tempted to use the 4 cheapest plugs
( Start of a flame war ?)
I use precious metal /Iridium in all my bikes and where as other people have has fouling problems I never have .

When you flush the coolant system be sure to use a coolant like " engine ice " and not just any old coolant as the alloy in the engine is quite sensitive to chemical reactions which can lead very easily to engine failure (may have been the root cause of your pump failure ?)


Good luck, the weather here is excellent for riding alas not me any more and but I am out shooting with my "ratty" :-0
Y-Geo.

[Valhalla_fzr96]

The water pump was shredded by the chain snapping . I dont plan on using junk plugs I will probably take the hit and go with what you suggested as soon as this storm passes. Should hopefully be here by Friday with the rod though will update you soon.