Front Brake Upgrade Questions

nathanjp93 · Post by **nathanjp93** » Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:51 am

So I've been reading about doing the blue dot caliper swap on my 1994 FZR. I'm also going to be doing stainless brake lines. I was considering also doing a master cylinder swap, but I can't really find any for cheap. I like the idea of just having two lines coming off the M/C instead of having the stock line configuration. I'm wondering if I can just replace my single banjo bolt with a double banjo bolt on my stock M/C and then just run the two lines from that. Any advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated!!!

Post by **thatkid** » Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:46 am

You can do that but the biggest upgrade is in the MC. Just changing out the caliper and lines doesn't do a ton. It will help some, yes, but you really need the MC for a good upgrade.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-06-07-08- ... ce&vxp=mtr

Not a bad price on that one. Make an offer of 70 and get it for 85 shipped. The MC alone is usually 50 bucks give or take these days so getting the calipers with it for 20 more is a deal in my book. I can help you out with the SS lines if you want to get new ones.

pefrey · Post by **pefrey** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 10:03 am

You will probably not notice any difference in braking with the blue dots unless your current calipers are FUBAR or the pads of the blue dots are markedly different than the current pads. The one advantage of the blue dots is the choice of pads, there are a lot more pads available and in greater quantity ie: easier to get.

Like thatkid stated, the real bang for the buck is with the master cylinder. Keep searching, you'll find a good bargain.

nathanjp93 · Post by **nathanjp93** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:21 pm

Thanks for the advice guys! I decided to pass on the blue dots, based on what you guys had said. I did pick up a 98 yzf600 M/C for $40 shipped though. (I'm on a college student budget here.) As for the SS lines, I was thinking I'd pick up these and have them made to my own specs, although I'm not familiar with that brand.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261177455152?ss ... 1438.l2648
Otherwise if you have some better ideas, let me know!

Another question I have for you guys is about rotor warping. I bought the bike last year, and the front brakes felt fine. I did some work over the winter, and painted the front wheel (but left the surface the rotors bolt up to unpainted and clean) and now the front brakes vibrate when I use them. The pads are new. Is there anyway to check the rotors for flatness, and can they possibly be resurfaced?

Redoliander · Post by **Redoliander** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:29 pm

I've never heard of those lines. Not saying they are bad but have just not heard of them.

For the rotors make sure the bolts are torqued to spec. If they are I'd say pull the rotors off and place them on a flat surface, floor, table, whatever and look at them closely to see if they aren't straight.

You could also bleed the fluid out to make sure there isn't any air in the system.

Redoliander · Post by **Redoliander** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:35 pm

Also did you wash and use a scotch brite pad to get the glaze off the rotors? It's a good idea to get all the old brake dust and material off the rotors when changing pads. Then go out and do some hard braking to bed the pads in. And if the rotors are warped I don't think there is a way of resurfacing them

Post by **thatkid** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 2:57 pm

When you painted the wheel did you pain the area where the rotor mounts? If you did, you could have too much paint in one area that didn't allow the rotors to bolt down flush. All it takes is a little.

Also, brakes are nothing to skimp on. Get some real lines from a reputable company. Speigler are my choice, but galfer, goodridge, etc all make great lines. You'll pay more but have the warm fuzzy feeling of safety when you need to stop. I can get you some speigler lines if you want to go that route. Just send me a PM

nathanjp93 · Post by **nathanjp93** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:47 pm

My dad has a layout table (flat steel table) at his work, so I was going to have them checked for flatness that way but I noticed the buttons protrude past the surface of the rotor. I haven't scotch brighted the rotors or anything either, that's a good place to start. The wheel was taped off where the rotors bolt up, and I just pulled the rotors and it's still paint-free and clean on that surface.

I'll be needing SS lines for a 98 YZF600 to match the master cylinder, I'm assuming those lines will work with the 94 FZR calipers, right? The bends look about the same.

Post by **thatkid** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:51 pm

You'll just need fzr lines. The mc won't change the length from caliper to mc.

nathanjp93 · Post by **nathanjp93** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 6:37 pm

I want to have just two lines from the MC, instead of one line that goes to a splitter. The MC I'll be using has a bolt for two lines off the MC and I'd like to use that setup with no splitter.

Post by **thatkid** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 6:42 pm

Right. Sorry, I just assume that when ordering new lines. My fault. Speigler has a 2 line for the fzr.

nathanjp93 · Post by **nathanjp93** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:13 pm

No problem, does Speigler have those lines in blue?

Post by **thatkid** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:29 pm

nathanjp93 wrote:No problem, does Speigler have those lines in blue?

Yup. You can do blue lines with blue fittings or any mix and match really. Go here: http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/custo ... lines.html And then on the left side there is the brake line color selector. Allows you to see what everything looks like together.

nathanjp93 · Post by **nathanjp93** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:38 pm

Cool, thanks! I'm almost wanting to do translucent blue with blue or black fittings. The solid blue looks like it might be too bright.

Redoliander · Post by **Redoliander** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 8:40 pm

Get the ones for the fzr. The yzf ones will be a different length. And the lines should come with the banjo for the two lines for the master.

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