So, I just recently ( well a month ago) I got my first bike a '93 FZR 600, it's in rough shape ( been sitting for 2 years) and wanted to restore it so that I can ride in the summer. (Don't worry I won't hop directly on the FZR, I'll be practicing on a good friend's Honda S90 in the spring before I even think about going on the 600 ) Well now I have a couple of questions.
1. I am currently stuck on how to sand/paint the side fairings. I've looked at some other forums and basically half of them said to wet sand off the paint using 800-1000 grit, while the other half said just normally sand it down using 400 grit, then wet sand using 800 grit, base layer of paint, smooth it out using 1000-1200 grit, paint then clear coat. I am basically confused as to what I'm supposed to do, I really don't want to screw this up as fairings can be expensive...
2. My brake lights, when turned on are super bright (as if I'm holding onto the brakes, which I'm not) but, won't go any brighter when I press the brakes, in fact it gets dimmer and then it stays that way no matter how much/long I press the brakes. What could possibly be going on?
3. The engine dies when I give it any input from the throttle (choke is off). I initially thought this was because the carbs were all gunked up so I took them off and then I cleaned them, put them back on and still it dies from any input from the throttle. I did drain the gas tank, new fuel filters and checked the petcock, spark plugs are fine and are giving spark. The previous owner said that I needed to let the engine warm up for a minute or so before I could rev/ride the bike or else the engine would die. Is this normal? And if it isn't whats going on?
I can't comment on the bodywork, but it is entirely normal to need to let the engine warm up a bit before there is any real throttle response - you're dealing with carbs, not EFI! Are you using the choke at all?
The brake lights sounds like one of the switches is stuck on. The rear switch (at the right pedal) is famous for this. Get in there and have a look; it probably needs adjustment and perhaps a bit of spray lube in the mechanism.
make sure you have your floats set right, and your air/fuel mixture screws turned out aswell, also a good sync on your carbs, but yes it is normal for it to cut out when cold but if its warm and doing this then you need to make sure your not running to lean or rich..
My bike also cuts out if i try to rev the engine right after starting it. Starting: I pull the choke up and leave it up until the bike starts running above 3k rpms; then i push the choke down and it idles around 1k and revs fine. This is pretty normal
As for painting: it's an art, not a science... Don't focus on removing all the old paint, it's a waste of time. Basically you want to rough up the surface so that the primer bonds well. Dry Sand with 400 grit to accomplish this; all you want to do is rough it up; you DON'T want to create deep scratches (basically don't push super hard) Wipe down area with rubbing alcohol and spray a layer of primer (filler primer works really well) let it dry, and Dry sand with 800 grit. Then another layer of primer, let dry, and wet sand with 800 grit. At this point it should be very smooth, look for scratches, gouges, clumps of paint or anything that isn't smooth. Defects will show up very clearly in your final paint job.
Wipe down with rag damp with rubbing alcohol, and grab your color paint. (Which paint to use? The easiest, strongest, best looking inexpensive spray can paint i've ever used is 'Rust-o-leum Stops Rust Enamel' this stuff is great and stands up to Rocks and most importantly GAS which will melt most paints quickly...)
Spray a very light coat, you will still see the primer coming through. Let dry. Spray another light coat. Let dry. Wet sand with 1000 grit. wipe down with alcohol rag. spray another thin coat, continue until you have full coverage. The more coats you can get on, the better your final paint job will be in the end. *Read/follow Drying directions on can.
Now to my knowledge there is not really a Clear Coat available (without baking required) that will hold up well to gas spills. With that said i have never clear coated any bike i've paint and this is again why i recommended several layers of Enamel Paint. You of course want a shiny reflective paint job with no 'orange peel' or marks. And good news! it is possible without a clear coat.
Basically once the enamel has fully dried it should look 'Ok', shiny but not 'see your clear reflection shiny' probably... So you have to Wet sand with 2000 grit very lightly, use A Lot of soap and warm water, use should barely feel the sand paper doing anything. Then you use Rubbing Compound on everything, followed by Polishing Compound! This requires a lot of elbow grease, and time... But in the end you will have an amazingly shiny paint job that will last a long time.
TIps:
*SHAKE every spray can you use a lot and often... And Clean the spray tip a lot with Rubbing Alcohol. Failure to do this will result in Spatter and Orange Peel
*Make sure there is not oil residue, dust, bugs, hair, or anything on the object you are painting (this is the reason for the alcohol rag)
*When Sand, Rubbing, Polishing be very careful and light around edges. its very easy to sand through paint in these locations.
*Always Start and End your paint spray away from the object being painted. Use Smooth back and forth motions NOT quick jerky circular all over the place motions like everyone seems to do with spray paint....
*If something lands in or on the paint while wet; just leave it there until the paint is dry... You will mess up the paint worse if its wet.
*Patients, Practice, and know that even if it comes out bad you can always repaint... (i changed the color of one bike 3 times once! hahaha)
*Watch out for Over-spray; Spray paint always lands down wind, on whatever happens to be sitting there... Parked Cars, Walls, things you just painted, your dog...)
*Everyone has there own opinions on How to paint, Which paint is the best, Wet/Dry sanding and so on... So learn from your mistakes and determine what works the best.
*Good luck!!
For a high end clear coat use spraymax2k Stuff is about 18 a can but it's a two part stray. You puncture the pin in the bottom into the middle of the can and it mixes the hardener in. Sprays like a gun and is as hard as a professional clear. Can is useful for about 24 hours.
On the carbs, you may also want to check the float heights and mixture screws if those have been tampered with.
@ droccm: Have you found a clear coat that holds up to gas??
although the panels i painted on my car havent came in contact with gasoline, i doubt the clear would hold up. i would just like to see how wet sanding does on its own in comparison.
pnbell wrote:Wet sanding is only the beginning to a good shine.. Rubbing compound followed by polishing compound is the actual key.
I experimented with turtle wax paste rubbing and polishing compound, I would recommend against using.
How come? Does it mess with the paint or something?
Well the rubbing compound did its job, was abrassive at getting out the scratches, but even after using the polishing compound multiple times didn't take away all the haze the rubbing left, had to use meguirs carnuba wax to cover it up.
Have yet to try turtle waxs new and more expensive liquid polish though..
) Well now I have a couple of questions. 
Are you using the choke at all?
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