so my 95 fzr600 has been running great. all of a sudden it got hard to start. now wont start at all. it will turn over. and try to run but wont fire up. i can get it to try and run on 1 cylinder (far left header gets warm). but it wont fire all the way up. when running on one cylinder i have to keep on the throttle and it never gets above 1k even at full throttle. pulled the fuel line from the pump and its pumping fuel.
heeeellllppp!!!!
1995 fzr600 wont start :(
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Re: 1995 fzr600 wont start :(
Check your valve clearances. Suddenly hard-starting, especially once the weather cools off, is a classic symptom of tight valves. to which these bikes are famously vulnerable.
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TTR Ignition Systems
TCI Repair and Ignition Transistor Upgrade
VRR Adaptor Harness
YZF600 TCI Adaptor
Running Light Fuse Carrier
Re: 1995 fzr600 wont start :(
awesome!~!!! anything else? whats the eaiest way to check the valves?
Re: 1995 fzr600 wont start :(
You don't mention the mileage, the valve clearances should be checked every 24K miles. Theres no easy way to check them, your talking about 2 hollow camshafts and 16 valves/shims. Please read up on this before you attempt to check/adjust them yourself. The process entails measuring all 16 valve clearances, writing down the values. Then removing the cam chain tensioner, camshafts, and the shims. Do your calculations on the valves that are out of whack, replace the shims as necessary. Replace the camshafts carefully. I've read horror stories of the hollow camshafts snapping in two. replace the cam chain tensioner.
A good tip is to tie wrap/cable tie the cam chain to both camshafts before you remove them, saves on re-timing.
You could have 3 bad spark plugs tho, or maybe even faulty HT leads, or plug boots/plug caps. personaly I'd look @ the easier option first, It could save you ALOT of time/money and heartache. If everything on the ignition side checks out, then and only then would I considerer other options.
When you have the plugs out think about doing a compression test
HTH
A good tip is to tie wrap/cable tie the cam chain to both camshafts before you remove them, saves on re-timing.
You could have 3 bad spark plugs tho, or maybe even faulty HT leads, or plug boots/plug caps. personaly I'd look @ the easier option first, It could save you ALOT of time/money and heartache. If everything on the ignition side checks out, then and only then would I considerer other options.
When you have the plugs out think about doing a compression test
HTH
Last edited by LoneFizzer on Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: 1995 fzr600 wont start :(
awesome! thanx a ton. mileage is 14k. im changing plugs tomorrow and i will report back.
Re: 1995 fzr600 wont start :(
well i changed plugs. number 3 boot was loose. after installing the new plugs. boot 4 ripped from the wire. i "fixed" the ripped boot/wire and it running like a champ! i was looking at replacing the boots/wires and all i see is oem for almost 200 bux. any other options guys?
thanx a ton!!!!!
thanx a ton!!!!!
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Re: 1995 fzr600 wont start :(
The wire / boot connection seems to be another one of those issues people frequently run into. The solution is usually to simply trim about 1/4" off of the end of the wires. This way the boots have some fresh wire to screw onto. While you're at it, maybe throw a meter across the boots to check the resistance (if I recall correctly, spec is 9k - 11k Ohms).
92 FZR600 - 3EN2 400 swingarm, Micron, DynoJet, Factory Pro, K&N, R6 shock, RT springs/emulators, R6 MC, Galfer, YZF calipers, Vortex, RK, YZF/R6 VR/R, Vortex, Zero Gravity
90 FZR400 - Sharkskinz, D&D, Sudco, DynoJet, Factory Pro, Ohlins, RT springs/emulators, JEM Machine, Woodcraft, NRC, Galfer, Vortex, RK, YZF/R6 VR/R, Vortex, Lockhart Phillips
89 FZR600 - Vance & Hines, DynoJet, Zero Gravity - sold in '91
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Re: 1995 fzr600 wont start :(
jymellis wrote:well i changed plugs. number 3 boot was loose. after installing the new plugs. boot 4 ripped from the wire. i "fixed" the ripped boot/wire and it running like a champ! i was looking at replacing the boots/wires and all i see is oem for almost 200 bux. any other options guys?
thanx a ton!!!!!
You CAN dig the oem wires out of the oem coils. They are epoxied/hot melted in..snip them off flush and then use and exact-o knife and or a pick to get the remains out. The bore will have a screw thread dealio like the plug caps.
Any good 7mm plug wire will work...cut to length....screw into coil....screw into plug cap....doesn't hurt to squeeze some dielectric grease into the bore before inserting wire. You could also plan ahead a bit and use shrink wrap to cover the join between wire and coil/cap for added security.
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