Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starting?

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manther09
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Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starting?

Post by manther09 »

Lights get brighter when I hit the start button, I know the stator is bad already, but im trying to figure out why the bike wont start. I think the neutral switch or some type of switch is blown preventing it from starting, I can pop start it, i posted before, got no answers, hopefully someone has a suggestion, i have downloaded a manual and have been going thru the list, the main switch seems to be good..ive checked up to there, i just dont know where the other switches are or how to check them, any advice would be appreciated, still time to ride this season and i wanna get it running, thanks a lot..
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kilika2
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Re: Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starti

Post by kilika2 »

Our bikes can run on what is called total loss. Meaning no charging system. So in short no you could still fire the bike. However if your vr is bad that will probably hurt more systems. My question would be what does it do specifically when you hit the starter? Click or turn over or anything? The other two safety switches would be the kickstand switch which actually touches the kickstand. And the clutch safety if the bike is in gear. So the basic way to override everything would be to start it in neutral with the kickstand up and the clutch in. If still nothing your start kill switch could be messed up or any number or other things. But anyway give us a little more as to what it's doing and we can start from there.

Chris.
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manther09
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Re: Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starti

Post by manther09 »

Ok, when I order a stator ill get a right handlebar switch anyway, because they should be cheap...

The problems began shortly after getting the bike, the battery in the bike needed to be replaced, so I bought a 50$ acid flooded battery, I thought the heat killed it (several 100 degree days in a row), but I think it was the VR, because after I blew up that battery, i upgraded to dry cell/deep cycle and blew that battery up shortly after. The day I blew that up I took the bike to batteries plus, and they told me ya, the battery was dead and gave me a new one, i came out to the bike and it wouldnt start with the brand new battery, so i figured it had to be the solenoid relay...what else would have changed? Then I found out about the VR (not very experienced in bikes this is my first) I replaced the VR before riding the bike anymore, along with the solenoid relay, but the bike still did not start, and I have been stuck ever since.

I can pop start it, and the voltage jumps around 14v -10v at idle, and when I rev it the voltage drops to 10v or so, even a little less.
I thought I was sure about which way to hook up the solenoid relay but after hooking it up both ways I am not sure. I follwed the list in the manual of what to test, and I think the key switch is good...along with the starter, solenoid, and I am pretty sure the new VR is working, I tried testing it like the manual says but im not sure what to do still..but is new...Also when I was blowing the two batteries I blew many lights over and over, tailights the most... high beams never...brake lights even worked but not tailights..i think thats for the VR or blown stator to blame. I also blew the tach...it reads at 0 rpm at idle, or mabe 0010 rpms...and when I rev it no matter how high it wont go past 2k rpm...is it shot?

>>solenoid hook ups....

When the blue/w wire is hooked up on the same side as the battery lead, the oil light comes on when I hit the start button, and stays on unless I am in gear, and both lights get brighter. Someone told me the stator was grounding itself out and thats why they got brighter...This was a visual observation.

When I hook up the solenoid relay the other way, I hear power going to the solenoid, and that is it. The oil light still comes on when I hit the start button, it is no longer on whenthe bike is just sitting in neutral.

Its like when I hit the start button, something grounds out like my friends were saying, because the lights to get brighterm and voltage drops from 6v - 0v when ihit the start button, when I tested it at the blue wire going into the solenoid...hopefully that makes a little sense...


thanks!
I tried leaving as much info as I could think of at the time, anything else I think of I will add....
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fzrbrandon
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Re: Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starti

Post by fzrbrandon »

manther09 wrote:ill get a right handlebar switch anyway, because they should be cheap....
They're actually over $100 new so... not that cheap. I've got a few available though if you need one. They're not the prettiest but they'll work. $20 plus shipping...
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manther09
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Re: Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starti

Post by manther09 »

Thanks, Ill let you know, i thought I saw them ojn ebay for a few bucks, but Ill probably buy it, my bike is a 94...
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kilika2
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Re: Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starti

Post by kilika2 »

If you're blowing bulbs like that I would say it's the vr. Did they blow before or after you changed the vr? Also open up your starter switch before you buy a new obey to make sure it's not just borrowed. And then I agree with getting one from fzrbrandon.

Chris.
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Before(5/5/09)_____________After(5/5/10)_____________Way After(8/1/10)


1995 FZR600 Sold :-(
2006 R1 Sold :-\
2009 Buell 1125R :-)
manther09
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Re: Would a really fried Stator prevent the bike from starti

Post by manther09 »

Stopped blowing bulbs after I replaced the VR...and thanks, I opened up the start switch couldnt see anything that looked out of the ordinary though, not sure what would be bad in it...but ill probably just replace..
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