Need a little help

[agodek]

I have another thread going about my head rebuild, viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9724
I have it all back together and cant get it to start. it will start without the airbox on, with the boots from the air box it will fire with wot but dies as soon as throttle is let off, with airbox fully attached it wont fire at all. its getting fuel, spark is good on all cylinders, its turns over fine, valve clearances are all within spec, i am assuming im too lean, the plugs were dry after repeated starting attempts, just wanted to get some help on what i should try first,

91 FZR 600
23mm float height
110 mains
52.5 starter
unknown pilot
FP needles at middle clip position
a/f screws at 2.75 turns out
stock headers with a v&h can cut down to 10"

this is what it was before the tear down and it ran fairly well so its what i set it at after thoroughly cleaning the carbs again while waiting for gaskets. I was very happy to hear it start after having the head and cylinders off with the great help and info from this site, but id like to get it to start with the airbox. then a synch will be done and hopefully many days of summer riding.

[M in KC]

Try your air srcews three turns out and see what happens. Since you can get it to fire timing, and compression are not your issues so you are about down fuel delivery/management. What are you doing with your choke during the starting sequence? Do you know the pilot jet size? Did you blow all the the carb pasages out with compressed air during cleaning/prior to reassembly? Nothing took up residency in your air box while you had it off did they.? From the other data it looks like you are a couple of sizes up on the mains from stock if I remember correctly. That should not affect starting though as that is a different circuit within the carbs. Darren has some good info in the Wiki on this site and here is a link to another good thread on carbs for our bikes on the Archives http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.php?showtopic=8141

Do you have a K&N air filter or just a standard issue in your air box? With a stock (aka unhacked) airbox and filter, stock header and after market can you should be pretty close to stock setting on your carbs at least to start with and then tune from there. Leave the 110 mains in for now until you get it to run. Good for you for taking the time to make notes of how everything was prior to tear down. Hang in there, you are down to the short rows now ...

[agodek]

I turned the mixture screws out to 3, and it started after a while with a little help from some starting spray. didnt really want to idle and would hang before returning to idle with some throttle. intake boots are fine, no cracks or leaks. went for a real short ride and with any throttle it bogged and wanted to die. i cleaned all passages in the carbs with fish line. I have a uni air filter that is pretty much brand new. choke did not seem to do anything when trying to start but it is functioning(after starting i turned it on and the rpms rose). I do have another set of carbs that came with my spare engine, that are bone stock, still have the caps over the mixture screws. i might try to clean them up and put them on see if that does anything. guess its just small adjustments and in and out with the carbs.

[agodek]

Is there a special trick to getting the float needle holder thing back in its hole flush? I re-cleaned both sets of my carbs, taking everything i could apart, minus the whole bank, but now i cant get that piece to go all the way in. is there a special trick? or do i just have to keep pushing on it till it seats all the way? ive finally had some time to work on my bike and this little thing has got me quite annoyed. it feels like its tight but i can see that its not sitting flush with the carb body. i can post a pic if my description is hard to understand.

[agodek]

still having trouble tuning. Got new plugs and now it starts right up everytime, idle is erratic and hangs and drops and sometimes shoots way up to above 3k. with the airbox attached it does not want to take any load, just boggs and dies. with just the boots on the carbs it runs better but still extremely rough. Im a complete noob when it come to tuning carbs and am not sure if im lean or rich. the temp gets really high after only a short time idling. ive had the carbs off 10+ times now, and this time id appreciate some expert direction. any suggestions are appreciated, just wanna ride...

[pnbell]

This uni air filter; is it just a foam replacement for the Stock Air Filter? Is the Airbox the Same As Stock?

When you cleaned the Carbs; Could you see through everyone? even the Tiny Pilot ones?

Are all the Jets Stock? There are little numbers on each one.

Hunting for idle, Hanging, Dropping, all this erratic behavior tells me that either one of your carbs is different than the others (dirty or tuned different) or that your carbs need to be sycn'd. -or both! (You can bench sync but dynamic syncing is better)

Basically the best thing to do is check and set everything back to stock.

At least you are good at removing the carbs at this point! Ha ha!!! I just worked on a YZF the other day and removing the carbs on it was not nearly as easy as the FZR; so be thankful about that!