Slipping Clutch? Or something else?

[MyYz400]

Hello, I am honored to have joined the Fizzle club! Just bought a 93 FZR600R from a neighbor. Once I got it back to my place, I started to go thru and see what needed to be done. Adjust the chain, easy enough, replace the stuck gas cap, on the way, and adjust the clutch lever. Ok again easy. Well while adjust the clutch using the threaded adjust on the lever, I noticed I nearly had to back the thing out so far, than it was only being held on by a thread or so. so I made my adjustment down on the engine instead. got everything adjust nicely, double checked the lever to ensure I had a bit of cable slack. Well I took it for my first test spin after the purchase. As I get out on the road, I goozed it a bit, and around 8k RPM and 3/4 throttle, the clutch slipped and engine zipped right up.

So my question is, could I have adjusted the screw adjustment down by the engine too much causing the helix shaft from pushing on the clutch plates, even tho the clutch cable has slack? Or am I looking at a clutch replacement? I only have a few hundred from each paycheck to put into this thing and there are quite a few things that need repair/replacement, and I'm trying to focus the money on necessities for now.

thoughts?

PS. - the bike is a 93', but the engine is a 94'.... not sure that matters, but thought I'd let you know.

David

[Gizzard1533]

give it a service before spending money on clutch parts, it could just be down to manky oil, worth a go, its a lot cheaper

[pnbell]

Well, certainly double check the Engine Clutch Adjustment again, to make sure it is loose enough, and not pushing the shaft at all.

Changing the oil may help; be sure to use a motorcycle wet clutch oil with no Friction Modifiers in it...

BUT chances are pretty high that you need some new clutch discs. if they are slipping they are likely glazed over. New Clutch Discs and Springs are about $100, and under an hour to install (very very easy job; just did this last weekend)

Now if you don't have $100, you could order New Springs for $10.00; then remove all the Clutch/Steel Discs and rough up each side real good with a ScotchBrite pad. As long as the Clutch Material isn't completely worn out, Roughing them up along with the New Springs might just resolve your problem for a while.
*Make sure after doing this: that the Clutch adjustment is correct, special attention to the Engine Adjustment to make sure it is loose enough.

- Keep in mind about my suggestion above: It's really temporary, if the clutch disc are really worn out, eventually they will destroy the Steel Discs too! Then the Cost of your clutch job at least doubles!

Good Luck, might just spend the $100.00 now and do it once!

[zerogara]

Screw in the cable adjuster at the perch all the way.
It doesn't take much to go past the point of adjustment on the engine. Losen it up again and then slowly turn till you feel a little more resistance than before, then back it out 1/4 turn, hold it steady and feel the lever for free play and engagement. While holding the screw tighten the nut to lock it in place (that's where most make a mistake and let it tighten the screw as well). It should be fine if it didn't slip before and if you didn't fry it for too long after it started slipping.

[MyYz400]

Well I've owned other bikes (dirtbikes) and I know about the need for cable slack (can jiggle the lever slightly without moving the clutch arm), but this is my first time with one of those helix throwout screws. I just bought the bike and the history is unknown. I was just see if it was possible to adjust the adjustment screw by the sprocket too much were there could still be cable slack, but the adjuster continuously pushes on the clutch. I think Im just going to go the new clutch route.

I called my local yam dealer, and they can get me OEM fiber plates and springs for around $130. I found EBC (light racing) full kit on Amazon for about the same. But never was a fan of EBC breaks, so their clutches scare me.

[zerogara]

This is exactly what it would do if you turned the screw in too tight. There should be some slack there and at the lever it is a fine adjustment as wear progresses.
I think it is worth your time to redo the adjustment before you throw away a good clutch.

[DonTZ125]

+1 - "the adjuster continuously pushes on the clutch" is a very bad situation and will lead to a welded ball and snapped pushrod. Loosen off the lever adjuster completely, and loosen the adjuster locknut. Back the adjuster screw out until it is obviously clear, then turn it in until it JUST touches - this may take a few tries to get the feel. Now back it off 1/4 turn, secure the locknut, and adjust the slack at the lever.

[MyYz400]

Yeah so I re did the adjuster, I suppose because it was difficult to get to with the fairing on, I must have over tightened the adjuster screw a bit to much. I re did it, and it seems to be working just fine! I still might change the clutch plates here soon anyhow, the ones in there now dont feel as smooth to engage as I think they should (not linear enough). So I'll add that to my list of fixes. Thanks for the help!