Little clutch help please...

[nortstudio]

I recently got a R6 clutch perch for my 1993 FZR600, to match the R6 MC/brake perch I installed. I'm not sure if I now need a different length cable, or if I can handle the extra length with adjustment.

The lever adjustment is at the end of its throw - so I attempted to do some adjustment at the engine side. When I try to loosen the nut, to release the screw - the but turns on what feels like a spring inside. There is something in there that has 4 tabs that wrap outside the circulat plate the nut sits on - not sure if this is what causes the springy feeling. Meaning the whole mechanism moves, and I am not in any way loosening the nut. I didn't want to go too far before checking with you folks - for fear of breaking it.

Of course, the Clymer manual only say "loosen" it - with no mention of this spring type feeling.

Thanks for any advice.

Scott

[nortstudio]

Slight update:

So the nut is moving (with the adjustment screw) which is pulling the lever up top in, and moving the internal actuator mechanism. Not sure why this is happening???

Also, the small piece (sort of like a cylindrical collar) that comes from the back side of the cover (surrounds the bolt/set screw) - which had small tabs on it is not in the parts fiche I was looking at. The tabs are all just about broken off - and I'm wondering if they were supposed to act as a lock of some sort?

Appreciate any help.

[FZRDave91]

Dont know about the tabs you are talking about, as I've never had much trouble adjusting them. It can actuate the clutch when you are trying to break the locknut free. If you can get it loose you will want to have the screw just barely touching the rod underneath it... but before you do this go back up to the lever perch and screw the adjuster back in so you will be able to make adjustments with it after setting the actuator play. If you want to see how the clutch actuator works, just unbolt it and play with the clutch lever... not much to them really. If the nut still wont break free try a little bit of penetrating oil, let it sit and try again later.

[nortstudio]

Thanks for the reply Dave. I tried some pen oil, and I can try some more. I'm just afraid to force it with the Mechanism being actuated when I turn it.

Not sure if I should take the push mechanism apart from inside the cover, then loosen the bolt without it hooked up?

I've adjusted this type of thing a bunch before - and never had this be an issue. Figure, just when I'm so close to having all these changes done

[reelrazor]

Sounds to me like someone just waaaay overtightened the jam nut.

Put a good socket/ratchet on it and slap the ratchet handle-impact style...or take the entire cover off(what 4? bolts)and take the cable out of risk.

That said, you usually have to be very careful of swapping on parts like clutch perches. The cable 'sweep' is an engineered dimension-switch to a perch with a different sweep and you may end up with a draggy clutch or one that wont fully engage.

You may very well need to determine the change in cable length you need and then special order one from motion pro, or find an old school accessory shop that still builds up cable-seems like every decent size town is allocated ONE such shop..maybe brooklyn has two.

[nortstudio]

Thanks RR. I realize that the cable may end up being an issue - there is certainly a difference etween the two perches. After putting on the new cable - it felt WAY closer to correct, and that was without the engine side adjustment. So maybe, just maybe, I can get this to work without custom cable. The old cable looked in decent condition, but must have been stretched a bit.

Ironically, awhile ago I looked into getting the parts needed to make custom length cables for my old Honda. None of the standard, modern cables are perfect for it, despite being advertised as such. Maybe I'll become that shop in Brooklyn

Appreciate the help. I think I'll remove the cover again and take the cable out - and secure the mechanism and give it a shot like that.