Is range of Stator resistance THAT critical?

[vmaxmike]

My stator coil reads about .6 on the ohms meter I have but factory specs say it should be between .31 and .37 ohms at 68 degrees F. Should I assume then the stator wont charge the battery sufficiently also assuming the VR is good? Is room temp that important? I'm checking it at a warmer 78-80 deg. Maybe my digital tester is not that accurate either... Any thoughts, thanks.

[reelrazor]

Yeah, I have some thoughts.

A) zero/calibrate your meter to begin with. If digital, this means to turn it to the finest ohms scale (lowest ohms value) and cross the leads(red to black) and hold it for a few seconds. Slightly better meters will require you to press down on the dial as you do this. If analog meter (honestly MY choice if possible), it should have a thumbwheel to 'zero' the scale. This is extremely good practice whenever using a multimeter.

B) Now, retest the stator for resistance value-keeping in mind that if the connectors you are touching the meter's leads to are corroded, that your values WILL be high (in other words-clean them first)

C) On a mid-scale resistance(ohms) scale check for continuity to ground (engine case) on each of the stator's three AC leads. There should be NONE (continuity that is-i.e. 'open circuit'/ "OL".) Any path to ground on any of the three wires means that stator has shorted that leg.

D) If 'C' test passes, test for AC voltage while running at approx 3000rpm. It should be 35+ ACvolts.

[olie05]

I'm having mild electrical problems, i.e. the battery is not charging. (as opposed to catastrophic ones, in which all the bulbs blow out and the TCI stops working)

I measured my stator coil resistances and from one white wire to any other white wire I get a resistance of 0.6ohms just like the original post says. I will be checking the AC volts at the stator coils while the bike is running, but Is this resistance too far out of spec? For my US spec 95 FZR600r, the resistance should be around 0.37 just like the OP.

While running, the voltage is anywhere from 11.5 to 12.5. ...pretty sure I need a new VR, but I'm approaching this methodically.

[DonTZ125]

Carry out steps 3 & 4 from RR's post above - check for shorting, then check the AC output. If they pass, your VRR has failed low. Annoying, but better than frying spendy components ...

[olie05]

the coils give an output of anywhere from 18 to 45vac while the engine is running... so yes, my VR failed low.

Bike runs fine as long as I charge the battery before I ride. Why don't all VRs fail like this?