Troubles Starting In The SW

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ng86
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Troubles Starting In The SW

Post by ng86 »

Hey guys its been awhile since ive posted.
But a few more problems have arisen. Not sure if they have to do with my carbs which im sure need to be synced by now but who knows.
Anyway i have to push start my bike every morning now before work and its becoming a pain in the ass...
The only time i dont have to is if its already warmed up and i turn it off for a few hours.

Even once i get it started, it doesnt want to idle above about 850 rpms and i have to hold the throttle open about halfway for 2 minutes before it finally revs up and runs somewhat normally. It smokes a small bit but then completely stops when its warm.

Anyone have any ideas? I really would like to be able to start my bike normally lol without looking ridiculous pushing it around the parking lot where i work.
Any help is appreciated! Thanks In Advance Guys :headbang:
1992 Fzr 600 - Airtech Tail, K&N Twin Filters, Aftermarket Chopped Exhaust, Custom Blinkers (Lol)
CRG Bar End Mirror, R6 Front MC and Calipers
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Soon To Come (aka wish-list) R6 Front Forks, YZF Rear Swingarm, Factory Pro Shift Kit, Stage 3 Jet Kit, and New Emulsion Tubes
CrazySkullCrusher
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Re: Troubles Starting In The SW

Post by CrazySkullCrusher »

I would check if your choke is operating and see if the passages in the enrichening circuit are plugged, then move on to the pilot screws and passages. The smoke could be burning oil from bad valve seals or rings, do a compression and leak-down test
96 fzr600. R1 body kit.

94 xj600 seca 2: complete upgrade restoration.

73 Honda cb750 four: bored out 178 over (850 cc) street cam, smoothbore carbs, velocity stacks, corbin king-queen seat, 4-1 header with modified megaphone exhaust, dyna-s ignition, too many other mods to mention and still under construction.

72 Suzuki ts90 cci. First bike ever, bone stock and still starts with 2 kicks.
DonTZ125
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Re: Troubles Starting In The SW

Post by DonTZ125 »

When was the last time you checked your valve clearances? Hard starting when cold is a classic symptom of tight intakes on these bikes.
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ng86
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Re: Troubles Starting In The SW

Post by ng86 »

How exactly do i do a leak down test?? Im pretty sure the choke is operating.
I have never checked the valve clearances, is it difficult??
1992 Fzr 600 - Airtech Tail, K&N Twin Filters, Aftermarket Chopped Exhaust, Custom Blinkers (Lol)
CRG Bar End Mirror, R6 Front MC and Calipers
Image
Soon To Come (aka wish-list) R6 Front Forks, YZF Rear Swingarm, Factory Pro Shift Kit, Stage 3 Jet Kit, and New Emulsion Tubes
CrazySkullCrusher
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Re: Troubles Starting In The SW

Post by CrazySkullCrusher »

To do a leak down test you need a leak down tester, it fills the cyl. With compressed air and gauges how much leaks out through either worn rings or valves. To check the valve clearances you need to pull off the valve covers and measure the gap between the cam lobe and the pot it sits on with a feeler gauge and check it against the recommended values. If you have valves out of spec then the cans will have to come out so you can change the whims under the pots. I would make sure all components of the fuel delivery and ignition systems are functioning properly before screwing with the valves.
96 fzr600. R1 body kit.

94 xj600 seca 2: complete upgrade restoration.

73 Honda cb750 four: bored out 178 over (850 cc) street cam, smoothbore carbs, velocity stacks, corbin king-queen seat, 4-1 header with modified megaphone exhaust, dyna-s ignition, too many other mods to mention and still under construction.

72 Suzuki ts90 cci. First bike ever, bone stock and still starts with 2 kicks.
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ng86
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Re: Troubles Starting In The SW

Post by ng86 »

CrazySkullCrusher wrote:To do a leak down test you need a leak down tester, it fills the cyl. With compressed air and gauges how much leaks out through either worn rings or valves. To check the valve clearances you need to pull off the valve covers and measure the gap between the cam lobe and the pot it sits on with a feeler gauge and check it against the recommended values. If you have valves out of spec then the cans will have to come out so you can change the whims under the pots. I would make sure all components of the fuel delivery and ignition systems are functioning properly before screwing with the valves.
Alright well I'll look into picking up a tester if it's still acting up after I clean my carbs. I haven't synced them since I've had the bike and it's been about a year so I'm thinking it's definitely time. I just need to find a legit step by step walkthrough so I don't screw anything up ha ha.

Do you think it had anything to do with the emulsion tubes? I'll have to check those out as well. One day when I'm off soon I'll get to work checking.

Thanks
1992 Fzr 600 - Airtech Tail, K&N Twin Filters, Aftermarket Chopped Exhaust, Custom Blinkers (Lol)
CRG Bar End Mirror, R6 Front MC and Calipers
Image
Soon To Come (aka wish-list) R6 Front Forks, YZF Rear Swingarm, Factory Pro Shift Kit, Stage 3 Jet Kit, and New Emulsion Tubes
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