Valve Shiming.

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kilika2
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Valve Shiming.

Post by kilika2 »

I know there are a lot of threads going on right now about this subject but I didn't want to add it to my build thread because I plan on doing a write up later on. :deal:

Anyway I need some help with questions so I don't jack something up. I did a search and didn't find any of my questions answered very well. Also the ipod doesn't pull up searches to well either.

In this first pic the T on the stator is lined up with the back of the crank on the little rectangle part that sticks out (sorry don't know the name). In the manual the picture it shows is actually upside down, but I wanted to make sure this is correct.
Also the manual says that when the stator is lined up like this and the cam rollers thin parts are pointed away from each other (3 and 9 o'clock.) [picture 1 in my 4th picture on here] However since our bikes have waste spark this happens 2x in the revolution of our motors correct? How do you know when cyl 1 is TDC? And it's not cyl 4 at TDC?
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In this picture and the one that follows the rollers are pointed away from each other and there is a little nipple on the cam that is pointed mostly upward. Is that an indication that cyl 1 is TDC or is there a nipple on the top and bottom of the cam? In the manual when you are reinstalling the cams it says to make sure to line the nipples up just like they are now.
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This is the picture from my manual in the first pic is has the rollers are opposite of each other, just like I have in my pic. Now, in the second pic in my manual is has the rollers turned so that the thin part is facing "up". Do you check the clearance with the roller like the first or second picture. Or does it even matter the valve is closed as long as the thin part isn't touching the keeper. However the cyl wouldn't be at TDC if I rolled the engine over to make the rollers look like they are in picture 2.
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My final question is probably the most noob of them all. When moving down the cyls to check the clearances you have to keep rolling the engine over correct? to make sure each cyl is at TDC and the roller isn't pushing the valve down? I'm guessing so since the 4th pic in the pic of my manual shows when each cyl is in combustion and at what degree you have to move the engine to.

Finally I wanted to add that there were a few people looking for shim calculators. I tell you what in my manual there is the easiest thing ever to follow to make sure you put in the correct new shim. It's like an old multiplication table. My 15 year old cousin could follow it. Haha.

Thanks in advance,
Chris.
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Before(5/5/09)_____________After(5/5/10)_____________Way After(8/1/10)


1995 FZR600 Sold :-(
2006 R1 Sold :-\
2009 Buell 1125R :-)
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olie05
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Re: Valve Shiming.

Post by olie05 »

In your pic you are not at TDC.

the long thin line next to the small "T" needs to line up with the case parting line. It looks like you lined up part of the "L". I would guess that this is why your camshaft nubs are off as well.

This is what you want to line up:
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Anyway, tdc doesn't really come into play until you take the camshafts off to install the shims.

Also, you will know which tdc you are at by the position of the #1 cyl camshafts. If they are pointing away from each other, like in the first pic you have in the manual, then that cyl is at tdc.

And yes, you have to roll the engine over to check each cylinder's valves.


...did you paint your spark plugs black? O_o
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kilika2
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Re: Valve Shiming.

Post by kilika2 »

Yeah I searched through my phone and realized I took the picture and then I lined it up at TDC and took another pic. I guess I uploaded the wrong pic. Whoops. Yeah I figured when I rolled it a couple more degrees the nipples would line up.
olie05 wrote:Also, you will know which tdc you are at by the position of the #1 cyl camshafts. If they are pointing away from each other, like in the first pic you have in the manual, then that cyl is at tdc.
They point away from each other 2 times when I roll the crank over, but I think one time when it does it the nipples aren't up like they "are" in my pic.

And yes I did paint my spark plugs, I figure I'll just sandpaper them and use them again. No, I'm kidding they are last years plugs. I put them in there so I didn't have to put a wad of paper towel in each spark plug hole to paint. The new ones are safe and sound.

Thank you for the help too.

Chris.
ImageImageImage
Before(5/5/09)_____________After(5/5/10)_____________Way After(8/1/10)


1995 FZR600 Sold :-(
2006 R1 Sold :-\
2009 Buell 1125R :-)
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olie05
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Re: Valve Shiming.

Post by olie05 »

kilika2 wrote:They point away from each other 2 times when I roll the crank over, but I think one time when it does it the nipples aren't up like they "are" in my pic.
The lobes for one cylinder will only point away from each other once in two rotations of the crankshaft. The 4 stroke cycle occurs over a crankshaft rotation of 720 degrees, and a camshaft rotation of 360 degrees.
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