Not Starting...

[tno45]

Just fitted downpipes and tried to start the bike and it won't start, it's never the best to start but we managed it last weekend.
Tried jump starting it and still nothing, checked the spark plugs - there is a spark, fuel lines are not blocked, fuel pump works, carbs fine - any ideas on what to check next ?

thanks

[cad600]

It started last week - with the old header or no header? If you used the old header and it started, I would put those back on and see if you can get it running. If it won't start with the old stuff back on, then it is less likely the new item is the problem. If it will start, then swap again to see if will now fire up or if the new item is really the problem area.

[rotortech]

Try spraying a little starter fluid into the airbox. If it fires with starter fluid but won't start you may have a fuel delivery issue. If it is cold where you are you may be a little leaner with the new pipe (doubtful) or your choke cable and plungers are not working right. After attempted starts are the plugs wet or dry? Failure to start with a good choke setting should give you wet plugs.

[ragedigital]

I'm with "rotortech" on the "cold" issue. Open the choke all the way. You might even want to back out the IMS (Idle Mixture Screws), sometimes called "A/F screws", a turn or 2 to richen up the idle circuit.

[tno45]

Thanks for the advise, can i ask where the a/f screw is

thanks

[thatkid]

can i ask where the a/f screw is

thanks

They're circled in Yellow below

[rotortech]

Mawler - great picture and worth a thousand words.

tno45 - These are hard to get to. With tank cover and side fairings removed you might be able to get in there if your hands are small. I remove the tank and air box to check these or make adjustments. It is worth doing and here is why: Over time these screws move quite a bit. When I first checked mine they were all over the place from 1.5 turns to 3.5 turns out. If you mess with these I recommend that you first document where they are to begin with. Turn the screw in and count the turns carefully then write it down. Do this for all four cylinders. If you come up with a bunch of different numbers just set them all 2.5 turns out from fully closed.

Remember; clockwise is in or lean and counterclockwise is out or rich.

[yamaha_george]

Mawler - great picture and worth a thousand words.

tno45 - These are hard to get to. With tank cover and side fairings removed you might be able to get in there if your hands are small. I remove the tank and air box to check these or make adjustments. It is worth doing and here is why: Over time these screws move quite a bit. When I first checked mine they were all over the place from 1.5 turns to 3.5 turns out. If you mess with these I recommend that you first document where they are to begin with. Turn the screw in and count the turns carefully then write it down. Do this for all four cylinders. If you come up with a bunch of different numbers just set them all 2.5 turns out from fully closed.

Remember; clockwise is in or lean and counterclockwise is out or rich.

Hi,
on any multi-cylinder bike the settings CAN be different from cylinder to cylinder due to manufacturing tolerances / wear /etc.

Mine vary across the engine 3/4 of a turn and yet she runs properly if the i/r pipe check and fuel sensor taps are anything to go by.

FZR's hate cold starting and they ABSOLUTELY must have fully charged (after standing any length of time) battery.
yes I am aware you said you have spark but that may be drowned /blown out if it is weak..

Another consideration which may come into play (only those with R6 modifieded pipes can tell you) is the volume & length of the new pipes over old may alter the tract length & the state of tune.

[tno45]

Thanks George, battery was fully charged today and still nothing we checked all the wires, fuses etc. and repaired some dodgy looking wiring. Do you think it's worth changing the spark plugs then? like you said it could have a lot to do with the weather at the moment.

[thatkid]

Have you checked for spark on all 4 plugs?

You could have some corroded connections, Ignition and coil connector blocks causing low voltage to the coils. Grab a multimeter and check the battery voltage, then check the coil LT voltages (Red/White wires) it should be close to the battery voltage, if not your guna have a weak spark, especially while the starter is engaged.

You should get yourself some dielectric grease to use on all connector blocks (seal out moisture, & damp), I found this was the best available in the UK http://www.motorwayshop.co.uk/shop/prod ... ector.aspx. My electrical woes are now a thing of the past.

Good Luck
Mal.

[tno45]

Have you checked for spark on all 4 plugs?

You could have some corroded connections, Ignition and coil connector blocks causing low voltage to the coils. Grab a multimeter and check the battery voltage, then check the coil LT voltages (Red/White wires) it should be close to the battery voltage, if not your guna have a weak spark, especially while the starter is engaged.

You should get yourself some dielectric grease to use on all connector blocks (seal out moisture, & damp), I found this was the best available in the UK http://www.motorwayshop.co.uk/shop/prod ... ector.aspx. My electrical woes are now a thing of the past.

Good Luck
Mal.

Not checked all 4 as getting to the middle two is going to be very difficult (it's a 400 frame), battery voltage is fine but not checked coil voltage yet. The wiring loom has been repaired a few times so a new loom might be worth getting aswell, thanks for the tip about the grease I will have to get some. Where in Yorkshire are you?

[thatkid]

Not checked all 4 as getting to the middle two is going to be very difficult (it's a 400 frame), battery voltage is fine but not checked coil voltage yet. The wiring loom has been repaired a few times so a new loom might be worth getting aswell, thanks for the tip about the grease I will have to get some. Where in Yorkshire are you?

I've just had a quick glance through your previous posts. Your loom could be part 400 & part 600 giving the appearance it's been repaired. I noticed you've had the bike running.

How did she run, did she idle OK, & did she fire on all 4 pots?
Any idea if the bikes been stood for a long period?

Oh I can't take credit for the dialectic grease, the members here get that. Mine was difficult to start, after I cleaned all the connectors and greased them up she fire's up right away every time now, took me ages to source the grease tho.

I'm in sunny Middlesbrough.

Keep us up with your progress.

Mal.

[thatkid]

Mawler - great picture and worth a thousand words.

That picture is one of many excellent carb photos taken by RageDigital, to be found here.

[tno45]

Not checked all 4 as getting to the middle two is going to be very difficult (it's a 400 frame), battery voltage is fine but not checked coil voltage yet. The wiring loom has been repaired a few times so a new loom might be worth getting aswell, thanks for the tip about the grease I will have to get some. Where in Yorkshire are you?

I've just had a quick glance through your previous posts. Your loom could be part 400 & part 600 giving the appearance it's been repaired. I noticed you've had the bike running.

How did she run, did she idle OK, & did she fire on all 4 pots?
Any idea if the bikes been stood for a long period?

Oh I can't take credit for the dialectic grease, the members here get that. Mine was difficult to start, after I cleaned all the connectors and greased them up she fire's up right away every time now, took me ages to source the grease tho.

I'm in sunny Middlesbrough.

Keep us up with your progress.

Mal.

the loom has been repaired with an assortment of connector blocks,crimp connectors and tape, so it is difficult to tell but I will replace it with a 600 as this appears to be the correct thing to do judging by other 400/600 threads.

There is a youtube video of the bike running which was taken a few days before I bought it - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CpzXRyZGAc it was running when I purchased it and I rode it back although it did stall it started with a bump start I think the previous owner had used it since passing his test in the summer but wasn't really too clued up on FZRs. Since I have had it was stood a few weeks while I got the parts sorted to fix a few things and since then hasn't started.

[thatkid]

Not running too bad in that vid, if you've had the weather we've had (damp/cold/windy/snow) and the bike started with a bump start, it's quite possible the coil voltages are low if they are you should check the ignition, coil, run stop switch connectors and pull the main fuse out and inspect all for corrosion.

Say the coil voltages (due to corroded connections) are 10.5V, when the starter is engaged the voltage will drop to between 8-9 volts = weak spark and no start.

Your clocks are 400, and will not connect to a stock 600 loom. Get the bike running before you splash out.