96 fzr600 various adjustment

[skunkwork]

c
I just picked up a 96 fzr600 with 24k miles bone stock down to the can and the previous owner did a great job keeping it up except for some reason there are a lot of areas that needs attention. I've been riding for a couple of decades but never really worked on my bikes but now with the internet where there's so much available informations I think I can start wrenching.

1: How do I adjust the shifting pedal. I tried losening up the nuts on either end of the nuts but they won't budge and since they're connected to the ball bearings it's hard to get a good leverage. The shifting pedal is around 2 to 3 inches above the rod so it's tough to shift and if I don't lift my toes high enough it keeps poping into neutral instead of 2nd.

2: I tried adjusting the chain which is pretty new but the slack is very lose, around 3 inches and after tightening the chain and line the rear axel nuts according to the factory marking lines on the swingarm I read that alot of bikes have these lines are notorious inaccurate. I'm wondeirng how accurate they are on the an the fzr and what you guys use to line up the axel nuts. On a side note when I was reading the factory manual it was indicating to tighten the chain I was suppose to turn the small nut counter-clock wise and clock wise to loosen which I find is opposite to what they do.

3: The previous owner put in a Fram suredrain oil drain bolt which was leaking oil so I took it off and was about to go get a factory bolt and washer but am deciding to get a magnetic bolt so wondering if anyone know what size they area andwhere is a good place to get it.


This is all I got so far and I thank you guys in advance for all your help


Have a happy and safe holiday

[apsolus]

the best way to adjust the shifter is to get a 10mm wrench and remove the area on the rod that is connected to the side cover. loosen that bolt that keeps it from falling off than you can move the shifter to the spot you want it in. ive been told this is the best way to do it cause using the rod to adjust it like you were trying to do makes shifting harder cause everyting is longer? haha i dont get it myself.

as far as the chain, i use the markings without a problem. ive heard of ways to actually measure this but you will be fine using the markings.

i might be wrong but i think the factory bolt is magnetic...not sure i havent even had a chance to ride my fzr after wrecking it a while back. but whatever you do make sure you replace the washer that goes between the bolt and oil pan. that washer can cause leakes as well

have fun with your bike dude!

[racerd14666]

you have to use the rod to adjust the pedal height cus if you just flip the shift arm that goes on the shift shaft it will mess the angle up and mid shift will run out of rotating angle then pull strait resulting in a incomplete shift. make sure the dot on the shift shaft is in the groove of the arm then adjust the rod til the pedal is were you want it.

as far as the drain plug im pretty sure its magnetic but it dosent make a whole bunch of difference cus the stuff that wears is aluminum or non ferrous metals and if any thing magnetic (tranny parts, crank shaft, connecting rods, ball bearings) lost a chunk to big to fit through the oil pump screen you would notice the bigger problem before the chunk could do more damage in the motor

as far as the chain goes those lines are accurate enough maintain a strait wheel but if the chain has got that much slack in it and the bike was ridden, more than likely the sprockets are shark toothed and junk and should be inspected before you ride.

[apsolus]

dont see why moving the deal over a few slots would cause all those ill effects. care to explain why? im intreged now!

[skunkwork]

Thanks for all the recommendations. Let me try to understand what each of you is suggesting. I ended up doing what I think Apsolus was suggesting which is to remove the entire foot peg assembly and putting it back while lining up the pedal height.

This is how high my shift pedal was:


I think Racerd is suggesting the rod where the blue arrow's pointing to is the right length or it may not shift right but I think the length on mine is pretty good so I won't worry about it.



So after talking the entire foot peg assembly out and lining everything up the height is way better so when I shift next time when I'm done it won't keep popping into neutral. I know the pedal is a little low now but I'll play with it to line everything up. Since I was at it I decided to take out the chain cover and clean everything out. It is kinda dirty but not too bad so I'm thinking of blasting everything with engine degreaser and lube everything up before I put it back together.

[skunkwork]

http://tinypic.com/r/o9lu7s/7

http://tinypic.com/r/35hjrro/7

don't think the images came out so I'll just post the link

oh and look gp shifting I know it doesn't work but it was nice to see what could have



http://tinypic.com/r/331kf10/7

[yamaha_george]

c
I just picked up a 96 fzr600 with 24k miles bone stock down to the can and the previous owner did a great job keeping it up except for some reason there are a lot of areas that needs attention. I've been riding for a couple of decades but never really worked on my bikes but now with the internet where there's so much available informations I think I can start wrenching.

1: How do I adjust the shifting pedal. I tried losening up the nuts on either end of the nuts but they won't budge and since they're connected to the ball bearings it's hard to get a good leverage. The shifting pedal is around 2 to 3 inches above the rod so it's tough to shift and if I don't lift my toes high enough it keeps poping into neutral instead of 2nd.

If memory serves the adjuster bar is left & right hand threaded. Once the lock nuts are loose you just twist the bar until your feet fit. RacerRD is correct you should not just move splines on a remote linkage as the linkage can mechanically bind on it self.

2: I tried adjusting the chain which is pretty new but the slack is very lose, around 3 inches and after tightening the chain and line the rear axel nuts according to the factory marking lines on the swingarm I read that alot of bikes have these lines are notorious inaccurate. I'm wondeirng how accurate they are on the an the fzr and what you guys use to line up the axel nuts. On a side note when I was reading the factory manual it was indicating to tighten the chain I was suppose to turn the small nut counter-clock wise and clock wise to loosen which I find is opposite to what they do.

Yamaha over the years (about 35 odd in my case) seem to make there chain adjusters pretty accurate (unlike a Spanish make i had) as for manuals they do have typo's and you can add that one to the list we have in the WIKI please quote manual year,page numbers and ISBN number so others can stay out of that hole.

3: The previous owner put in a Fram suredrain oil drain bolt which was leaking oil so I took it off and was about to go get a factory bolt and washer but am deciding to get a magnetic bolt so wondering if anyone know what size they area andwhere is a good place to get it.

The original is magnetic but as mentioned else where have a NEW washer to hand or your FZR will act like a Triumph & leak

This is all I got so far and I thank you guys in advance for all your help


Have a happy and safe holiday

You're welcome, a safe New Year to you & yours.

[skunkwork]

If memory serves the adjuster bar is left & right hand threaded. Once the lock nuts are loose you just twist the bar until your feet fit. RacerRD is correct you should not just move splines on a remote linkage as the linkage can mechanically bind on it self.

I see the dot RacerRD was talking about regarding lining it up. The problem I was hav ing was the lock nuts are too tight to a point where I might strip them that's why I was resorting to removing the entire assembly. I think the length of the adjuster bar is good that I can still line up the dots.

Here is the before and after when I blasted the engine degreser, have you guys notice where the blue arrow is pointing, why is that washer folded up, should I be worried.



And look how clean everything is I know I coulda done better but it's covered up and noone can see it so... now I'm going to lube where the pink arrows are should I lube anything else?



Thanks again for all the good advice you guys rock

[skunkwork]

My pictures are still too big guess I gotta downsize them even more, here are the links


before:

http://tinypic.com/r/2ijtg5l/7

after

http://tinypic.com/r/iqvlsz/7

[yamaha_george]

SW,
that washer that is bent is supposed to be BENT TIGHT against the sprocket nut to stop the nut getting loose, sprocket wobbling screwing up the chain OR worse snapping thhe chain and doing the case/clutch rod etc.