My bike, it no movey movey.....

[shigs]

I've got a clymer and a chilton, not very much help on diagnosing the symptoms though. Don't really want to start disassembling everything if I can just get an idea of what it might be.

[shigs]

Adjusted clutch, pulled the basket, checked all grooves, teeth, plates, etc everything measured up. Followed the book step by step. Still just sits there and revs in every gear....

[ratbikesforever]

Reelrazor is right. If the only parts you changed were the pushrod pieces and the old ones were damaged you more than likely ended up with a longer pushrod length. This all on the assumption that your pressure plate is on right. Do the the clutch plates get tight in the basket when you tourqe the pressure plate? Also does the clutch lever have freeplay?

[shigs]

The old pushrod was just cracked....how can the new one be longer? And what would I do if it was?

[thatkid]

The old pushrod was just cracked....how can the new one be longer? And what would I do if it was?

The new pushrod could be longer, especially if you bought the wrong one (I did try to tell you).

If so buy the correct one, simple.

[cad600]

Time to step back and eliminate potential problems one by one. This should help narrow down the issues.

There are 2 things that pop into my mind when you are describing the issue. 1) Long shot, but I don't remember seeing a picture of your bikes engine, are you sure you have a FZR600 engine and not a YZF600 engine? The push rod for the YZF600 should be longer so if you put the FZR600 on in there it will not work. 2) If you bike was working before with a broken push rod, your clutch basket might be damaged. Try putting the old one back in and see if it works. If it does then you know the new push rod is the issue, if it doesn't then it is the basket or the plates.

[reelrazor]

So I replaced my clutch pushrods, ball, and seal.....got the bike with a broken long pushrod and the both of them wleded to the ball. Clutch pulls just fine, shifter clicks through all of the gears.....but the bike won't move, just sits in neutral. Any ideas?

The old pushrod was just cracked....how can the new one be longer? And what would I do if it was?

Well, when the pushrods weld themselves to the ball, everything shortens up. The symptomatic indicator that this is happening is that the clutch adjustment goes out of wack quickly...the clutch slips and gearchanges get clunky.....it can be restored by further adjustment (which fixes the symptoms, but compounds the problem).

Now, we still don't know if your bike propelled itself before you replaced the pushrods....did it, or not?

If you bought it like this and it DIDN'T move itself, chances are that the clutch plates are smoked


If it did move itself, and then you replaced the pushrods, then something YOU have done has caused this. There are literally millions of this style of clutch on bikes, industrial equipment, in automotive transmissions, and elsewhere. They are extremely reliable, fairly simple, and only truly ask that they be properly assembled to fulfill their functional duties.

o do the grooves on the pressure plate go into the grooves on the last plate? There is no arrow or markings to show me. And the manual doesn't cover this is detail....

No, the pressure plate splines should NOT engage the last steel plate...the last clutch plate should be a fiber plate (which has external tabs-the steels should have internal splines which engage the clutch hub). The purpose of the alignment arrow and hole on the hub and pressure plate is to make sure that the pressure plate is securely engaged with the hub.

No rotating metal in the clutch assembly should rub against any other metal...it goes: clutch hub, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, steel plate, fiber plate, pressure plate.

(9 fibers, 8 steels-starts with a fiber, ends with a fiber-so that the metal surfaces of the clutch hub and pressure plate are directly against friction material)

[shigs]

Thanks to everyone else for all of the help, I will be taking your advice and checking things out over the next few days. Some people (like me) don't know absolutely everything about bikes but still like to get their hands dirty and try to figure things out for themselves and learn in the process. Since this is a 94 FZR, that I bought for $200 to tinker around with, and is worth just as much broken as it is running, I'm having a good time digging into it myself and learning about it without the worrying about it so much.

It's funny to hear the different reactions. Some people act like I'm disassembling an '09 Ducati on a picnic table in the backyard, and some people are happy to help and understand that they're old bikes and nothing to get worked up about. This is a great forum for the most part and I have definitely gained more knowledge and found the people of the forum (for the majority) are really helpful and enjoy being here. Thanks you guys!

And if it helps anyone to understand, I have over a decade of experience in classic car restoration. I have been through auto body school, I do body and paint, interior upholstery and restoration, beakdown and assembly, remarketing, purchasing, and auction work.

I know basic bolt-on mechanics but tearing down engines, electrical, major mechanical issues/repair never interested me. I like to do what I can to my own vehicles, but never step out of the boundaries of what my knowledge is and have always been more interested in cosmetic restoration than mechanics.

I've seen some mechanics out there that can tear down and rebuild an engine with a blindfold on, some that seem to know about the size and torque of every nut and bolt on every vehicle ever made. But could't paint or smooth out a fender to save their lives. Everyone has their passion. I'm having a great time with mine.

I've never worked on my own bikes aside from paintjobs, picked this bike up so cheap I figured I'd dive into it myself and see if I can get it up on its legs and have something cheap to play around with before I start dropping $90 an hour on a bike that's almost 20 years old. I'm having fun with my little project. I know there's at least a few people out there that share this feeling, too.

[apsolus]

what i would do is remove cover and watch as you pull and release the lever and make sure the disks are making contact. maybe yur missing one! dont worry about the haters. not everyone is mechanicaly inclined. back off guys give him a break we are here to help

[shigs]

Thanks apsolus, that's what a forum should be like!

[sweekster]

Ok guys. Let's not let this thread stray from what it's about. Bickering aside, has there been positive progress? Does the bike engage into gear? Everything torqued to spec? I do remember someone having similar issues and it turned out to be a few bolts put back too tight. Just a thought

[thatkid]

Shig's many people here including me have attempted to help you. I'm glad you are now finally taking their advice, Instead of giving smart ass replies, which gets you No where.

You have a whole decade of experience on body work WOW!

I'm in the process of painting my tank tail, any advice you could give me in the choice of paint thinners clear coat and preparation would be greatly appreciated. The last time I repainted a car was in the 80's. In total to be honest I've only ever painted around 30 cars, so I'm no expert on that front. It's cold in England at the moment and I will be painting outdoors, what paint and anti bloom thinners should I get for the best results? I only want to paint once.

I'm more of a mechanically inclined kind of guy, with over 3 decades of experience. Others have more years, but the people you should really listen to are reelrazor & Y-Geo.

Guess who has both push rods & clutch assembly stored as spares. here's a clue.

The clutch alignment lines (marked in Red)


Correctly aligned


Wrongly aligned


Wrongly aligned, close up


Hope that helps you out.

I eagerly await your help regarding my paint dilemma

Thanks.
Mal.