clutch cable adjustment, help

[Yamarx1]

I'm new to the forum which I want to say is great, however I have been reading alot of the past posts on the clutch cable adjustments and either I'm over looking the answer to my problem or I'm just not getting it.

I replaced the clutch cable cause I assumed it was stretched but the new cable is the same, I have the adjustment at the lever almost all the way out and and I have alot of play at lever and will finally engage about about a 1/4 inch before handle bar,

is this normal? After reading some posts I did the nut and screw adjustment, but still the same.
I hope someone can help me I have been out of motorcycling for awhile (wife finally said yes), so I went and bought the bike I had as a kid so I'm taking on a project.

[mrfreeze5]

Im currently having exactly the same problem with my new clutch cable.

[reelrazor]

Chances are, both of you have pushrod issues.

The clutch pushrod is actually three parts...

1) a mushroom shaped one on the far right-that actually contacts the clutch pressure plate

2) a single bearing ball

3) a long pushrod that goes in from the left-that the clutch cable actuator actually contacts

The bearing ball in between them acts like a throwout bearing in an automotive clutch-it allows the rotational speed difference between the two pushrod sections to justify.

When run for any length of time without any free play that ball gets either ground to dust, or gets friction welded into the end of the long pushrod.

Either way, the whole assembly gets shorter-which leads to too much, unadjustable, free play like you two are experiencing.

Pull the sprocket cover and teh clutch cover. Pull the pressure plate. Get all three pieces out and examine them. I'm willing to bet at least one of you has to use vise grips to get the long pushrod out because it has mushroomed

[mrfreeze5]

I went through my whole clutch during the rebuild and my pushrod is in great shape. 3 pieces present and accounted for. I also have spares.

[reelrazor]

I went through my whole clutch during the rebuild and my pushrod is in great shape. 3 pieces present and accounted for. I also have spares.

And you did the screw and locknut adjustment at the bottom first, then at the handlebar?

And, the pressure plate is installed correctly?

If so I would suspect that your 'new' clutch cable has too long of an inner wire (it happens-manufacturing mistakes)


I also see you have a different front end...are you using the original FZR clutch perch/lever?

[mrfreeze5]

I went through my whole clutch during the rebuild and my pushrod is in great shape. 3 pieces present and accounted for. I also have spares.

And you did the screw and locknut adjustment at the bottom first, then at the handlebar?

And, the pressure plate is installed correctly?

If so I would suspect that your 'new' clutch cable has too long of an inner wire (it happens-manufacturing mistakes)


I also see you have a different front end...are you using the original FZR clutch perch/lever?

Yes, everything "should' be installed correctly. The clutch perch is stock FZR. The lever is YZF though. Its slightly different.

[Yamarx1]

Will I need to drain all the motor oil first and if I'm going to pull all that stuff should I just replace it right away?

[reelrazor]

Will I need to drain all the motor oil first and if I'm going to pull all that stuff should I just replace it right away?

No. If the bike is on the sidestand, the clutch cover removal will only spill an ounce (if that) of oil. There is NO oil behind the sprocket cover.

[Yamarx1]

I took everything apart and the long push rod, ball and short push rod are friction welded together and the long push rod is shorter so I'm sure this is my problem. I have to order parts and replace, also need to replace springs, clutch plates worn and dis-colored. The clutch boss has some burrs on top of the splines from the steel clutch plates, should I replace the clutch boss or do you guys think I can file down the burrs and it would be ok?

[yamaha_george]

I took everything apart and the long push rod, ball and short push rod are friction welded together and the long push rod is shorter so I'm sure this is my problem. I have to order parts and replace, also need to replace springs, clutch plates worn and dis-colored. The clutch boss has some burrs on top of the splines from the steel clutch plates, should I replace the clutch boss or do you guys think I can file down the burrs and it would be ok?

Which clutch plates are you refering to, the steels?
The burrs on the boss can be gently filed off, be sure to clean out any filings.

I often found that the steels had been wronly installed on yamaha's . the extra intermal balance lug (if present) were placed in a line where as they are supposed to be equi-spaced around the clutch and that the rounded edges were stacked against the sharp edge (because they are steel pressings) all sharp edges must face the same way not mixed

[Yamarx1]

thank you to everyone with input, I replaced all three pieces of the pushrod, the longer pc. the ball, and short push rod and like new again. While I was in there I replaced friction and steel plates and springs.

Thanks again to all.

[reelrazor]

thank you to everyone with input, I replaced all three pieces of the pushrod, the longer pc. the ball, and short push rod and like new again. While I was in there I replaced friction and steel plates and springs.

Thanks again to all.

Perfect!

Glad we could all help. Just make sure you have a little bit of free play at the lower adjustment, and the friction welding shouldn't happen again