kilika2 wrote:So my last question is to reelrazor again (or anyone really). The ground that I need to take to the chassis, is that the black wire coming off of the plug or the extra wire that I had that was screwed onto the upper bolt holding the vr in place. Thanks.
Chris.
You found out that there is a threshold voltage that the 'modern' style VRs have...if the battery isn't showing at least 10.2Vdc or so.....it won't switch to charge the battery-this is to prevent the VR from throwing 15amps at what it thinks is a shorted battery/battery with a dead cell(which can lead to the battery exploding).
That late model FZRs came with the same VR as the YZFs. The short wire that goes to the mounting bolt? That is the one you should extend and run (12ga alll the way) to the main chassis buss.
EVERY metal to metal interface between the VR and the engine case (major ground and THE ground system for the stator AND the battery - lead) becomes a point of resistance. Dissimilar metals compound this issue(electrolytic corrosion). As is you have a steel bolt thru pot metal VR housing and aluminum plate, bolted with steel bolts to the subframe and then the aluminum engine case is bolted into a steel (or aluminum for the 400) with steel bolts and alloy spacers...alll with some kind of anti-corrosion finish (paint on frame/subframe/engine, parkerizing/zinc plating on the bolts etc.)
Goop up the stator plug, the VR connector block, and the hoop you put on the black wire to the engine case with dielectric grease (get it in the trailer section of any auto parts store-the tiny tube in 'sealants' section is like $4.95....the biiig tube in 'trailers' is like $2 ) Use it on ALL electrical stuff you disconnect or service, it'll pay in the long run.
to throw me. Also the fan is 12 volt and I would need a good place to tap into the wiring. I'm thinking the tail light. That runs on that side of the bike correct. 
