tkclow wrote:Are you talking about the spark plugs? I am talking about the nuts that torque the cyl head down.
Sorry TK
I mis-read that post Yes I was referring to spark plugs with new crush washers, it is also wise to replace head bolt crush washers to get a good seal and get the torque right at the same time (be aware that torques are quoted DRY ie no lube on threads)
Head is back from the machine shop all fixed. He only charged me $25.00. Just waiting for the gasket kit to show up and start getting her back together. So can anyone yet verify that the correct torque for the cyl head bolt nuts is 18ftlbs. Thanks again
92 FZR600
Yoshimura RS-3 Carbon Fiber Slip-on
02 R6 Caliper and MC Swap with S/S Lines
Dual Headlight Upper Swap
Clear Taillight w/LED Bulbs
Vortex 520 Conversion 14/47 RK Gold Chain
Shinko 006 Podium 150/60/18 rear 110/70/17 Front
More To Come
tkclow wrote:Head is back from the machine shop all fixed. He only charged me $25.00. Just waiting for the gasket kit to show up and start getting her back together. So can anyone yet verify that the correct torque for the cyl head bolt nuts is 18ftlbs. Thanks again
tkclow wrote:Head is back from the machine shop all fixed. He only charged me $25.00. Just waiting for the gasket kit to show up and start getting her back together.
Awesome! Hope you can get her back on the road again soon.
1997 FZR600RJ
Engine: K&N Drop-in air filter - stock airbox - FP 5°ignition advancer - EBC "Street Racer" Kevlar clutch
Exhaust: Stock header - Yoshimura RS-3 Carbon fiber slip-on
Body: Original paint/graphics - Clear Alternatives integrated LED Taillight - Flanders' flush front signals - YZF600 Mirrors - Comp. Werkes Stainless fender eliminator/tag bracket - 60w/55w H4 headlights
Tires: Metzler MEZ4B 120/70 ZR17 Front - Michelin Madacam 100x 150/70 ZR18 Rear
Brakes:Stock rotors with EBC HH Sinstered pads
In the works: YZF600 header, '97 Bandit 600 rear wheel, DynoJet Stage 3, Racetech Springs and Emulators fork rebuild, FZ1 rear shock, YZF600 front MC, Galfer SS Lines, CFM rearsets
I think mine must have a missprint because it says 18ftlbs. Like I said I just want to make sure they are tight enough. 30 ftlbs sounds more like it. One of the guys at work said they do 34-36 on the race quads. I will double check my Haynes manual again to be sure. Thanks. Anyone else that has done headgaskets or had the head off chime in and let me know what you torqued the cyl head nut too. Thanks George
92 FZR600
Yoshimura RS-3 Carbon Fiber Slip-on
02 R6 Caliper and MC Swap with S/S Lines
Dual Headlight Upper Swap
Clear Taillight w/LED Bulbs
Vortex 520 Conversion 14/47 RK Gold Chain
Shinko 006 Podium 150/60/18 rear 110/70/17 Front
More To Come
tkclow wrote:I think mine must have a missprint because it says 18ftlbs. Like I said I just want to make sure they are tight enough. 30 ftlbs sounds more like it. One of the guys at work said they do 34-36 on the race quads. I will double check my Haynes manual again to be sure. Thanks. Anyone else that has done headgaskets or had the head off chime in and let me know what you torqued the cyl head nut too. Thanks George
Unfortunatley I doubt it, still waiting for the gaskets to get here and Saturday is the day I have to put it all back together and for some reason Sunday my daughter wants to spend the day with me.
92 FZR600
Yoshimura RS-3 Carbon Fiber Slip-on
02 R6 Caliper and MC Swap with S/S Lines
Dual Headlight Upper Swap
Clear Taillight w/LED Bulbs
Vortex 520 Conversion 14/47 RK Gold Chain
Shinko 006 Podium 150/60/18 rear 110/70/17 Front
More To Come
tkclow wrote:I think mine must have a missprint because it says 18ftlbs. Like I said I just want to make sure they are tight enough. 30 ftlbs sounds more like it. One of the guys at work said they do 34-36 on the race quads. I will double check my Haynes manual again to be sure. Thanks. Anyone else that has done headgaskets or had the head off chime in and let me know what you torqued the cyl head nut too. Thanks George
Maybe it is 18ft/lbs as a first stage tightening? Do all, then move to 30ft/lbs? Good idea to do it that way anyway.
“A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.”-Douglas Adams
I just checked my Haynes Manual again and all it says is torque in sequence to 1/2 torque then to final torque of 25 Nm (18 ftlbs) It just does not sound right to me. What torque do you guys think is ok, 30ftlbs like Georges manual says?
92 FZR600
Yoshimura RS-3 Carbon Fiber Slip-on
02 R6 Caliper and MC Swap with S/S Lines
Dual Headlight Upper Swap
Clear Taillight w/LED Bulbs
Vortex 520 Conversion 14/47 RK Gold Chain
Shinko 006 Podium 150/60/18 rear 110/70/17 Front
More To Come
tkclow wrote:Well I just checked the Service Manual in the WIKI and it says 18 ftlbs also. Here is the link if someone else could check it to make sure I am looking at the right stuff. Thanks. It is on page 10 http://commline.com/FZR/600/MANUAL/FZR6 ... ap%202.pdf
And here on page 14 http://commline.com/FZR/600/MANUAL/FZR6 ... %20pt2.pdf
“A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.”-Douglas Adams
It's probably so low because those studs are really long. Or are they bolts? I can't remember. Either way, they run the whole length of the cylinder and anchor into the block. Don't go cranking too hard or you may snap the stud/bolt.