Wont Crank Still????? Help!! (UPDATE)!!

[cad600]

This is a crazy idea, but go back and double check your wiring. Look for 3 things.

1) You don't have any wires frayed.
2) Your grounds are good.
3) You don't have any wires that are not conected to anything and are now touching a piece of metal.

Sounds weird, but worht a look. The horn wires are netorious for causing problems.

[1BadFZR600]

Like i said, Ive been workin on this bike for a month now.......I have checked everything....Its a electrical component going bad and I dont know which one......Its not the battery.....

[fadlan12]

Good looking bike BTW. How is the gap on the plugs or just the plugs condition? enough spark to keep running but not enough to get a cold engine started unless hooked up to your 225 booster. Mine would barely start until I put fresh plugs in then it would fire right up

I just reread you intial post, You pulled the heads and put in new rings, Sounds like high compression issue, which would be overcome by strong spark, I still feel like your battery is too weak to fire it up. Not that your battery is bad but just not enough juice to get it going. maybe a yuasa batt or higher crankning amp battery.

[1BadFZR600]

Thanks on the comment!! ....I was a TURD when I got it...I repainted the whole bike and got the stickers off ebay...Come to think of it hhuumm Ive got almost everything off EBAY......And the compression is 135-145 across all cyl....And the plugs are gapped correctly...Thanks on the reply

[Acetone]

Have you checked the sidestand switch? If you are trying to start it with the sidestand down, the water may have corroded the inner workings of the switch to the point where it will not completely cut off power, but just enough to keep it from firing up. When you are using the charger on boost it may be able to overcome this short. Obviously when you roll start it the sidestand is up. Just a thought. Best of luck

[1BadFZR600]

Yep!!!! Tried that...And I tried the kickstand and the clutch switch....NO LUCK!!!!! Thanks

[Acetone]

You mentioned that you thought it might be that the sparkplug isn't far enough into the cylinder. Have you tried using hotter plugs? It think the CR8E not only burn hotter but also have a larger spark.

[davephipps]

OK wiring for the starter motor circuit os pretty simple on this bike.
1. Starter
2.Heavy guage wire going from starter to stater relay.
3. blue/White wire going from starter realy to the relay/solenoid.(between the main fuse and flasher relay)
4. relay/solenoid to start switch.
That should pretty much narrow it down. My method if I'm unsure, is replace each with cheap parts from ebay or other source.
I'll check the wiring diagram tonight to make sure I'm not missing something and clarify testing procedures before I post them.

[1BadFZR600]

NEGATIVE.....The Ngk CR8E and the CR9E have the same legth thread....read this....Its me from the Archives...http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... opic=42213 I have installed CR9EIX plugs and they are the same length...........

[Acetone]

I know that they are the same length but maybe the extra heat will help you get it going. Also, you never confirmed that you were choking it. After you did the jetkit are you sure you hooked up the choke linkage?

[1BadFZR600]

All that is fine.....choke, no choke.....dont matter........I can push it 5ft and it will fire right up...Its an electrical issue....I THINK? LOL2

[Luke-a-Tron]

The extra heat won't do diddley squat until the engine is running. The heat rating has nothing to do with how "hot" the spark itself is. It's just how hot the center electrode stays throughout the cycle. You only need to play with the heat range if the bike is tuned correctly and you're still getting carbon buildup on the insulator. The iridium plugs have a much higher tolerance for running too cool because the electrode is tiny and gets hot enough to vaporize the carbon every time the cylinder fires.

You might want to try picking up some cheapy plugs and gapping them tighter. It could be the new coils you got are not quite up to the job of jumping the gap on the juice from the battery by itself. Once the engine is turning fast enough, you get a voltage boost from the charging system. DO NOT try and regap the iridium plugs. The electrode is too hard and brittle to be bent and will just snap off.

It's good call on the choke linkage. Make sure all the plungers are moving. It's easy to get that bar on without it snagging the detent in the plunger arm.

[Acetone]

Thanks for the info on the "hotter" plugs. I really didn't have any idea. My mistake.

[1BadFZR600]

That was my 2nd set of plugs...Just for the hell of it...and I still have the problem....

[1BadFZR600]

Im going to try a CDI box a buddy is sending me to try......If it fixes it I will post it.....