1990 FZR600 won't start

[aaronric]

Hey guys --

I just picked up my first FZR, a '90 FZR600, for $400. It's missing one side fairing, but is otherwise complete and in decent shape. Has a title, too

Now, the issue: It turns over, but won't start. It begins to catch, but can't quite get convinced to fire. Rolling on some throttle seems to make it less willing.

It has spark on all four cylinders, and the plugs are new. The battery is fully charged. It has a new stator and a new finned reg/rec. The airfilter is clean and open. The fuel pump cuts on, and it has clear fuel lines, so I can see that the carbs are being fed.

So, my thought, my hope, I guess, is bad gas. I'll try soon with fresh gas from an external tank and see where I get.

My question is, if it isn't fresh gas, is there anything to look for before dirty carbs or a dropped valve? It certainly SOUNDS like a bike that has decent compression, but I know better than to rely on that.

Any ideas?

[Mr. Matt]

I would think bad gas too. Gas in mine went bad after sitting for just a month or so. See if you can get it to fire over with a little starting fluid. If it will crank over on starting fluid you know it is a gas/carb problem

There is a thread that a member wrote on here. It's a starting point to verify all components and wiring is good for the starting system. http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... opic=55850

[willandrip]

When was it last run ?

Prepare to learn all about cleaning carb jets/airways properly the first time....

[aaronric]

Seller claimed it last ran in June, but god only knows if that is true. It'll catch enough to backfire, but not enough to actually burn any gas. Drain tank, new filters, see where we get. Tearing down the carbs might be an idea any way you cut it.

[willandrip]

In one of your earlier posts you mentioned dropped valve.

A more likely candidate is valve adjustment out of spec.
This is fairly common on fzr engines and anything over the 35K miles should be checked..owners rarely do them...the bike becomes harder to start and is eventually sold as a non runner that "just requires carbs cleaning".

After they have stood idle for a few months...the carbs WILL require a full clean.

[aaronric]

Thanks for all the replies and advice, guys. I really appreciate the help.

[aaronric]

In case any of you who weighed in are curious, I got the thing going with new gas. Some good non-ethanol from an auxiliary tank got it to crank over and run as if it had last been ridden yesterday. Getting the title and registration settled this week with DMV, and the new fuel tank (old one had a leak) will be here this weekend. Not bad for a $450 total investment!

Still haven't decided what I'm gonna do with it, though ...

[willandrip]

Good news and an update or result is always appreciated.

[aaronric]

All right, ladies and gents. Could use some regulator/rectifier help.

Bike doesn't charge past 11.3 volts at 4k rpm with a new battery. Stator plug has consistent resistance at each combination, so it's reg/rect, I think. The RR was allegedly replaced by the PO, but she used an off-brand that looks like a stock one with more heat sink. On inspection, I noticed the plug had melted at some point, and there was evidence of heat on the tongues on the RR itself, so it looks like I will at the very least be replacing that plug, too. Now, we get to my question:

There is good documentation here and elsewhere about the 99-01 R6 RR swap, and that is what I am thinking I will do. The issue is, I have read on R6 forums that those RRs can be a pain in the ass, too, and I do not want to waste my time/money/energy/profanity. Are those stories apocryphal? Have any of you done the swap to good effect? Is there an aftermarket RR I should be shopping for?

Thanks for your help again.