OK, I've had my 1996 FZR since 2003 and I've never had a problem with it (about 16000 miles on it). But 2 weeks ago I started it up (no problem) but then it died, I mean really died. No juice what so ever. No lights, fuel pump or starter. I turned the ignition off and back on and it started up again but died right away. Now I have no power what so ever.
I'm thinking it's the ignition switch or voltage regulator. I'm pretty handy with a wrench but tracking this stuff down is differently not my wheel house.
My question is, where do I begin and how do I test for the problem?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Dennis
No electricity
Moderators: Site Director, FZR Forum Moderators
Re: No electricity
Have you checked the main 30A fuse, behind the left seat panel?
1989 3LN1 FZR250R, currently stock.
TTR Ignition Systems
TCI Repair and Ignition Transistor Upgrade
VRR Adaptor Harness
YZF600 TCI Adaptor
Running Light Fuse Carrier
TTR Ignition Systems
TCI Repair and Ignition Transistor Upgrade
VRR Adaptor Harness
YZF600 TCI Adaptor
Running Light Fuse Carrier
Re: No electricity
Yes. It was looked good and I switched it with the spare just in case. Also checked and replaced the ignition fuse. Still not luck.
- willandrip
- Level 7.0
- Posts: 704
- Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:51 am
- Location: TYNE AND WEAR -UNITED KINGDOM
Re: No electricity
First check the battery has voltage.
Next check the earth connection for resistance with a multimeter.(one probe on neg battery terminal, other probe on a good earth point on motorcycle.) This is not an infallible test...a poor earth connection is notorious for showing little resistance until a load is placed upon the circuit. You can if you wish use a jumper cable to totally eliminate the bikes harness earth by connecting the battery negative direct to a clean conduction point on the bike.
By your description it rather sounds as if your problem is the main ignition switch internal contacts.
The horn and brake light circuits are very simple...if they WON'T work AND the power supply to the ignition from the battery is not broken the ignition switch has failed or is worn to excess. This is often when the switch operates BUT the key needs to be manipulated and a few repeated attempts to switch on made before the ignition comes on.
Next check the earth connection for resistance with a multimeter.(one probe on neg battery terminal, other probe on a good earth point on motorcycle.) This is not an infallible test...a poor earth connection is notorious for showing little resistance until a load is placed upon the circuit. You can if you wish use a jumper cable to totally eliminate the bikes harness earth by connecting the battery negative direct to a clean conduction point on the bike.
By your description it rather sounds as if your problem is the main ignition switch internal contacts.
The horn and brake light circuits are very simple...if they WON'T work AND the power supply to the ignition from the battery is not broken the ignition switch has failed or is worn to excess. This is often when the switch operates BUT the key needs to be manipulated and a few repeated attempts to switch on made before the ignition comes on.
Sent from my keyboard using the English language not some teen text shite from a fooking phone.
Re: No electricity
OK, I dug into it a little more today and I "think" I found the problem. I'm pretty sure it's the CDI box. I was going to hook up a battery from another bike to see what would happen. As I was getting at the battery all of a sudden the lights and fuel pump came on. I tried to start it and there was a click from the area of the CDI box. I was able to get everything back on a couple of times by tapping on the CDI box.
Is there any way to test the box or any other ideas? I've read that there really isn't but if someone knows of a way I'd like to hear it.
Thanks,
Dennis
Is there any way to test the box or any other ideas? I've read that there really isn't but if someone knows of a way I'd like to hear it.
Thanks,
Dennis
- willandrip
- Level 7.0
- Posts: 704
- Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:51 am
- Location: TYNE AND WEAR -UNITED KINGDOM
Re: No electricity
It cannot be the TCI that clicked...its totally electronic circuitry ...they don't click.
The starter solenoid however does...Is you main feed taken from that ?...if so: well regardless really , check all connections/wiring on there.
The starter solenoid however does...Is you main feed taken from that ?...if so: well regardless really , check all connections/wiring on there.
Sent from my keyboard using the English language not some teen text shite from a fooking phone.
Re: No electricity
OK, good to know and thanks.
But could it still be the connections to the box or should I look elsewhere?
But could it still be the connections to the box or should I look elsewhere?
- willandrip
- Level 7.0
- Posts: 704
- Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:51 am
- Location: TYNE AND WEAR -UNITED KINGDOM
Re: No electricity
No...its not anything to do with the box INTERNALLY.
When you are faffing about in that area you must be disturbing the offending connection and completing the circuit.
Get a camera..take pics...remove each and every electrical component,inspect/clean and reassemble.
It's the most simple of jobs and child's play. Don't let wiring intimidate you.
Buy a $10 multimeter and learn to use it.
When you are faffing about in that area you must be disturbing the offending connection and completing the circuit.
Get a camera..take pics...remove each and every electrical component,inspect/clean and reassemble.
It's the most simple of jobs and child's play. Don't let wiring intimidate you.
Buy a $10 multimeter and learn to use it.
Sent from my keyboard using the English language not some teen text shite from a fooking phone.
Re: No electricity
y DonTZ125 » Wed Jul 06, 2016 10:31 pm
Have you checked the main 30A fuse, behind the left seat panel?
........what is the fuse next to the 30amp main???.......
Have you checked the main 30A fuse, behind the left seat panel?
........what is the fuse next to the 30amp main???.......