Headlights come on and go off intermidently?????

[wildcard]

Hello guys after meticulous carb issues that I got covered now the bike is running pretty good, I put a new throttle twist on this evening and it nice to twist the throttle rather than manualy running the carb linkage.

I have all the wiring hooked up and all is working other than the headlight have never come on or the nothing would happen when I flip the highbeam switch, so I couldn`t remember from my prevouse FZR yrs ago if light only came on when it started or all the time, anyway as I was reving the engine up pretty high RPM, The light suddenly came on and stayed on for a bit I turned the bike off and restarted and lights stayed off but when I reved the engine high rpm again they came back on and stayed on for a bit then shut off, Weird so before came in the house I took the bike for its first ride and no light till I got to the bottom of the driveway and they came on as I turned onto the road and they stayed on for a quick ride down the street and back home and into the garage, and shut it off and on and light didn`t come back on so I Just left it how it is for tonight.

Anyway what would you guys think my problem is and where? could the stator be dirty since this bike sat for a few years before I got it or what ya think, when the lights would come on the high and low switch worked also.

Thank, Wildcard

[96YamiFZR]

Try flicking the start switch


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[96YamiFZR]

I had the same issue well I guess technically I still do but in my situation when I flick the start switch they will turn on and will stay on hopefully that helps you out until someone else can help you with a permanent solution


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[TomcatMJ]

Check for some Rust inside the Plugs to the Lights and perhaps some rust inside the Switch if you're sure to have the proper bulbs inside the headlights. The Ignitionlock might have some rust inside, too. Most rusty Contacts inside the Plugs or the Lock might get cleaned either with a metalbrush or with some contact-spray, Dr.Wack (its named "Wacker Chemie" here in Germany, but Dr.Wack in other Countries afaik) Contact60 for example, but a standard Brake-Cleaner would work also as it vanishes without any residuals afer doing its job.

[wildcard]

Thanks for the Replys guys, good ideas and please keep em coming.

I`ll give the starter switch flick tomorrow,

I haven`t changed the headlight its what came with the bike I got it not running and was setting couple years,

would this be a voltage regulator problem, I read the cool detailed thread on here about swapping to an R6 voltage regulator and I done that before I even tried to start the bike that seems to be changing fine, friend mine said maybe its the wiring to the regulator I told him about the R6 regulator swap and in the diagram and instrucktion I went by it said the positon of the 3 white wires didn`t matter, Is this true cause friend thinks maybe it does matter where they go.

I put the R6 big finned regulator and it said for the 5 wire set up I would have to add a ground, the harness already had a black ground to the regulator so that si plugged in and also tapped of the same wire and grounded?

I`ll check the rust in the headlight bulbs, when afer I reved the motor pretty high the light came on and I did have the wireing off but hook up I believe was the correct way,

Wildcad

[TomcatMJ]

The rectifying regulator has something similar to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier ... _rectifier combined with a smoothing capacitor/coil combination and a additional limiter for limiting the Voltage inside, so it really doesn't matter which of the three phases (the three white wires) is connected to wich of the thre counterparts because the smoothing mostly elemintaes the pasedifferences between the 3 individual phases of the generator and smoothes the resulting voltage to a nearly flat line (if seen and compared to the sourcevoltage in an oszilloscope)...
But it maybe the grounding-connection from the harness alone would be a bit to weak to bear all the backflow via the gound-2 connectors, so connecting one directly to the frame would perhaps be a better solution than putting them on the same harnes-wire (else it maybe burning the wire under heavy stress due to to much Amperes via both connectors for the single thin wire).
And you should also check inside the couplers/sockets at the wire,not only the plugs at the bulbs for rust and remove it if you finde some

[wildcard]

Well I flicked the starter button a few times and no difference

I haven`t had a chance to check for rust at the light plugins, I am also in the middle of and engine swap, I`m taking the hoped up 327 chevy out of my 28 Model A coupe streetrod and putting it in my Lowrider custom 67 chevy pickup. coupe needs some body work cause of a lot of bubbling in the paint unfortunelty its never been in a garage since I finished it in 2001 so moisture had gotten in areas and behind panels and under the body filler and it surface rusting and bubbling in quite a few places so will be redoin that this winter hopefully. so the engine out of it is goin in the 67 chevy truck I have been building for the Hot August Night cruise event that is this coming weekend, should be fun. anyway

thanks for the info on the Regulator, my harness had a Red, Black and 3 White wires and they are all connected the same as the r6 regulator install thread explained, for the ground my harness had a black wire I connected to the ground on the regulator which I also have another black ground wire coming off that same connector and its grounded to the rear tail section. Would this be correct.

Any other ideas or possiblilities that culd cause this problem I`m gonna track down as much rusty connections I can tomorrow after I get the truck fired up.

Thanks, Wildcard

[TomcatMJ]

If all the contacts are free from rust and fitting well so that theres no instable connection,then it might be an idea to check the diode matrix. Parts of the schmeatic of this matrix are in chapter 8 of the service manual including instructions how to check these parts with a pocket tester / multimeter. I don't know where the diode matrix is located in the 60,but in the 400 3bf its located right under the tci. It loks like a simple piece of plastic and has some wires leading inside (and looking like someone forgot to let them get out on the other side of the plastic )..inside the diode matrix there are only a bunch of diodes and resistors or little coils (in the us there are different icons used for resistors and coils than in europe and so i'm not really sure if the icons in my servicemanual are the ones for coils or for resistors, but viewed in details a resistor is only a special kind of coil at all, having a defined value of non-capacitive resistance) which act as "and" or "or" linking-points instead of a bunch of relais and due to the fact that there are no high currents to switch its saving a lot of space to do this job with such an diode matrix instead of relais. So to say its a prestage of an integrated circuit and if this matrix fails it will switch not like expected but giving some obscure results instead of the expected functionality.

By the way: Actualy i'm having to check the diode matrix of my 3bf, too because of some obsure efects on the lighting system and problems to start the motor...no parking light in the headlights, no braking light but working flashers,working high beam, working horn but no working starter motor even with working neutralswitch, standswitch and clutch-lever switch and due to the fact that the lights make probs i gues it will not be the starterswitch or killswitch but the diode matrix, too in this case....

[DonTZ125]

The diodes are only used for the safe-start interlock. The headlights are cut by the start switch itself; the headlight circuit is routed through the start button, and breaks that circuit before it makes the starter relay circuit. Check all your physical connections.

Tomcat - if you have signals but no brake lights, either your brake elements are burned out, or your rear brake switch is sufficiently misadjusted that the brake lights are always ON. Nothing happens when you hit the brake lever or pedal (the lights are already on!), making you think they aren't working at all.

[TomcatMJ]

I found the fault at the Brakelights..during a Motorreplacement (cheaper than repairing quickly the Motor after a piston-defect due to a misleaded valve and a resulting camshaft-break, motorrestauration will take place this winter i guess but driving again was primary focused for now ) i accidentally pulled of the contacts of the Front Brakeswitch and the Spring of the Pedalswitch was worn out...nevertheless my parkinglightfunction of the headlights seems to have disappeared and obviously somewhere seems to be a tricky error inside the circuit but not at the connectors (all checked,all rustfree and proper galvanic conected) and i will have to check and analyse the circuit-plan more detailed for findig the spot where the parkinglight-signal gets lost...but for now i have a cicumvention due to the installed 3HE Headlights (European FZR 600 Genesis Headlights) with E-Number instead the DOT-Number, but also an up to now not really used seperate bulb for the parking-light which now has become an adapter for powering this bulb via the here in Germany not used third flasher-wire (Positionlights in Flashers are not allowed in Germany officially but mostly reactivated after getting the TÜV-Sticker on the Numberplate )....
The Mainproblem with starting the motor was the Startermotor...obviously defective because after replacing it with the one from the motor before the motor began to work

[wildcard]

Hello guys, I Found The Problem, Finaly last couple days I have been grounding and jumpering power from a lead I made that I attached to the positive of the battery and I could use this to supply power to about any wire I found just short touchs and ya I popped a couple fuses and made a few sparks, Lol but I found that the main wire that would turn the light on and the high/low beam switch would operate course this would come on with the key or ignition in the off position the wire was the blue/black stripe. I could ad power to this wire at the plugin under front of airbox and each plugin to the LH or RH controls cause this wire actually comes from the start button and the high/low beam swith into the harness and this is where it has the crimp for both these wires in to one.

I found that if I tapped on the RH control with a ratched or something the light came on so bad connection so I don`t think the RH control assembly had a good ground connection to the handle bar so after I retaped up the harness I had all stripped apart I could still tap on the RH control and the light would flicker and unfortunetly taping on it I believe knocked the blue/black stripe wire loose from the start switch so no it won`t start so I`m goin to have a friend solder the little connection back together I`m pretty sure this wire was possibly loose before maybe the start button always worked great before just knocked this wire loose maybe as a coincidence.

but if your having this same titled problem jumper power to the blue/black stripe wirh at left or rught hand control plugins if the light come on then the problem lies in the RH control solder connection on the start button,

I figured when I went out to the garage this evening if I didn`t find any thing I was going to add a lighted toggle swith with fused battery poser and tap it into onte of the blue/balck stripe wire and that would be how I would turn the headlights on, or just going from the blue wire in the ignition switch plugin and jumper over to the same color wire in the harness I mentioned and that's how I would turn the light on

Thanks Wildcard