bad stator or what!? (wont let me upload pic)

[crasher]

1997 fzr 600. all tests tell me I have a bad stator. I ripped my stator out today and it literally looks perfect. there is corrosion on the cover but all the windings look brand new. there is no burn marks or worn down windings, but no power to my bike. is there anything I can check or fix or something? like I said the stator fails all tests but its hard for me to believe that it is not repairable. the copper looks great. there is corrosion on the cover, and on the end of the "spokes" ( the pieces that have the windings on them) there is rust on the outside flat pieces. any and all input is appreciated. please feel free to ask questions. I haven't even gotten to ride this bike yet.

[goosefartfan]

OK, you need to get VERY specific!

what tests did it fail? what are the values of the tests?

[crasher]

I did this test from the archives- "After checking the Voltage Regulator, check the Stator or alternator or generator, whatever you like to call it, to make sure it's the VR going bad. On the VR there's a plug with 3 white wires in it. Pull that and get your multi-meter out. Set it to Rx10 and check the resistance of the top white wire with the second white wire, then the top wire with the third white wire. You should get a reading of 0.31 to 0.37 ohms. Any less or no resistance and the stator coil is bad. Normally though, it's the VR that's bad.

On the left side of the bike is the stator..the 3 wire plug coming out of the sidecover disconnect it and put the voltmeter on AC volts...start bike..put a lead from the meter on one of the white wires (all 3 are white) and the other test lead on another white white wire..Have someone rev the bike to a steady 3000RPM..do you get at least 40 ac volts?? if you do repeat with the other white wire...same results?? If you get 30-40 acvolts on both legs but the battery is not charging at the specified 14.3-15.3 then the rectifier/regulator is bad."


when I did the resistance test with the stator on the bike the meter showed no resistance, with the stator off the bike I get a reading of .12 but the number just keeps creeping up and past the .37 spec- not sure what to make of this or if it means nothing with the stator off the bike,i don't know. when I did the volt test I got a reading of 0 when I had one prong of the meter on one white wire and the other prong on another . however when I put the black prong to ground and the red prong on one white wire I got a reading of about 18 volts. not sure what this means. also to check the volts at the battery I took my dead battery out of the bike and hooked jumper cables from my car battery with the car off directly to the terminal wires (to mimic a having a good battery in the bike) and revved to 3k and got a reading of 12.97 volts. also the bike dies immediately after I disconnect the jumper cables (yes this is with the dead battery installed). so I believe I am not getting any power from my stator, but as I said previously my stator looks great, other than corrosion on the cover and I see some corrosion on what I believe would be called the pickup. any and all input is appreciated id hate to shout out the money for a new stator if mine is repairable.

[goosefartfan]

I did this test from the archives- On the VR there's a plug with 3 white wires in it. Pull that and get your multi-meter out. Set it to Rx10 and check the resistance of the top white wire with the second white wire, then the top wire with the third white wire. You should get a reading of 0.31 to 0.37 ohms. Any less or no resistance and the stator coil is bad.
[when I did the resistance test with the stator on the bike the meter showed no resistance, with the stator off the bike I get a reading of .12 but the number just keeps creeping up and past the .37 spec- not sure what to make of this or if it means nothing with the stator off the bike,i don't know.
DID YOU ZERO OUT YOUR DVM BEFORE THE RESISTANCE TEST? WHAT DOES IT READ WHEN THE TWO LEADS (PRONGS) ARE TOUCHED TO EACH OTHER? ARE YOUR BATTERIES GOOD IN THE DVM?The .12 value is quite low and would make me guess that you have a short in the wires that you can't see. An analagous situation is a guitar pickup (I have experience there). Same kind of situation, a wire wrapped a few thousand times around a magnet. They get shorts in the wires, and you'd never see it or figure out why or how it got there.

On the left side of the bike is the stator..the 3 wire plug coming out of the sidecover disconnect it and put the voltmeter on AC volts...start bike..put a lead from the meter on one of the white wires (all 3 are white) and the other test lead on another white white wire..Have someone rev the bike to a steady 3000RPM..do you get at least 40 ac volts?? if you do repeat with the other white wire...same results?? If you get 30-40 acvolts on both legs but the battery is not charging at the specified 14.3-15.3 then the rectifier/regulator is bad.

when I did the volt test I got a reading of 0 when I had one prong of the meter on one white wire and the other prong on another .

however when I put the black prong to ground and the red prong on one white wire I got a reading of about 18 volts.
AC or DC???

not sure what this means. also to check the volts at the battery I took my dead battery out of the bike and hooked jumper cables from my car battery with the car off directly to the terminal wires (to mimic a having a good battery in the bike) and revved to 3k and got a reading of 12.97 volts.

what is the battery voltage reading without any revving or with the bike turned off?? 12.97 or different?? Is the voltage at battery higher when the bike is revved above 3K RPM, or no diff??


also the bike dies immediately after I disconnect the jumper cables (yes this is with the dead battery installed). so I believe I am not getting any power from my stator, but as I said previously my stator looks great, other than corrosion on the cover and I see some corrosion on what I believe would be called the pickup. any and all input is appreciated id hate to shout out the money for a new stator if mine is repairable.

If you're sure you've done the tests right, and done them more than once, it's probably an internal wiring short that you can't see.

[crasher]

I am starting to think that my multimeter is bad because when I touch the two leads together I get an initial reading of 11.98 then it just creeps down as opposed to up. also I don't see a way to zero out my multimeter, I have an etek 10709 digital multimeter. oh and the reading of 18 volts was ac. I don't have time to toss the stator back on the bike today but maybe tomorrow I will throw it on and redo the test at the battery if weather permits. I really appreciate the replies thank you

[thatkid]

If you need a stator let me know. I think I have 3-4 in the garage.

[goosefartfan]

DVM's are like $5 at harbor freight, if there's one nearby.

And yes, a ohm reading of 12.xx with the leads connected to each other is very bad...I was expecting in the 0.x range.

You can't zero out a DVM like you can an old analogue one. What I meant was on the ohm scale, touch the two leads together, see what it reads. Subtract that from whatever test results you get. The resistance values we're talking about are close enough (between good and bad), where you want to remove any error from the DVM itself.

You can still do the resistance (ohm) tests with the stator off the bike. For AC/DC volts tests, obviously, it has to be on a running bike. You don't have to put a bike battery in, just keep the car battery connected during the tests (w/the car turned off).

The AC and resistance tests are done at the plug coming out of the stator, not at the battery. At the battery, you're just looking at DCV.

[andrewaharvey]

O

[goosefartfan]

why did you jump to needing a starter and more? You've only described your stator as being bad...

[andrewaharvey]

Sorry goose fart I was reading and got carried away didnt mean to hurt feeling