FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

One of the sharp eyed workers at my mate's work shop , Tony, he of the welding skills fame, spotted that the magneto cover was not only scratched but cracked from the PO fall prior to its arrival by me....................

That undercoat was rubbed down to a perfect finish and i then sprayed it with "Rover Gunmetal" car paint which it turned out to be a darker silver than the Yamaha version of Silver on the bike. I must admit that if I had not JUST changed the oil I would have been tempted to do the Peanut cover and the Clutch cover to match and had a rather tasty two tone silver bike. But alas I was not about to do that so I went out and bought the "Peugeot Aluminium" car paint which is as close as Dammit to the Yamaha Version

Hold the fork upright and with it fully compressed and no collar or spring installed fill it with fork oil to 3.98 inches from the top of the fork through the cap bolt opening. Be sure to fully extend and compress the fork a few times do distribute the oil. There are many different types of oil people have used. Automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, and different weights of fork oil have been used. Yamaha recommends 10 weight fork oil. It will take about 15 ounces per fork. Yamaha sells fork oil in 16 ounce cans. You will need two cans which costs about $12.

Fzrmike33 wrote:Hmmm no emulators in ????????? i left mine in, the thread on how to do this doesnt really exsplain if your suppose to leave the emulators in ??????

Now comes the tricky bit which is to put the inner tube down as far as it goes and set the oil height. Now i normally pour until I can see oil at about 1.5" below the top of the inner tube and use a vet's syringe with a piece of clear hose instead of a needle (mate's use a turkey baster (thanksgiving turkeys get a new baster I hope)) the length of the hose is cut to the required air gap {in this case 120mm} Push the plunger right down and insert into the oil and draw up the oil until you see continuous bubbles:-}

With the oil level set, drop in the PD valves with the screw heads upwards. They tend to sink somewhat slowly. You then insert your new spring slowly and place the original self centering washer on top of the spring. Pull up the inner tube gently.