FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

I am finding tuning the fizzer a pain in the ass. I really can't afford the dyno runs (charge a arm and a leg here in Australia).
The gap between each time I change jet is so long that I forget it the bike was better before or not. And the carbi rubbers are getting worse each time I remove the carbies. So I have decided to install a wideband O2 sensor and guage. This will allow me to get some real numbers and not go by feel alone. Maybe down the track I could expand on it and look at a fuel injection system.

So I was wondering if anyone has done this?
Any advice?
Best place to install the sensor?
I was thinking at the back of the exup inclosure, so does anyone know if it is made of case iron or case steel?

This is a great Idea. I'm planning on doing this to my FZR if I install a fuel injection system on it.

I have not done this to a motorcycle, but I did add a narrowband sensor to my car and I was able to base an entire fueling map off of it, despite it being about 3 feet from the head. This was the closest place where all the header tubes merged.

Anyway you shouldn't have any problems where ever you put it, just remember that exhaust leaks can throw the reading off.

Ok bit of an update. I ended up fitting the O2 sensor into short extension pipe I made up from some 2" stock I had. So I just pop off the can put this extension on and stick the can back on. I decided to play with a narrow band sensor to start with because a friend had a new one not being uses. Got a cheap LED bar graph gauge from Jcar electronics for $20aust that I put together. I am not getting consistent readings for the sensor and I think the voltage in the gauge is a bit wild, maybe picking up some interference or something. I will spend some more time on it this weekend.

I have a wideband sensor coming (eBay) and thinking it would be cool to fit a digital readout in the OEM taco. On the face of the taco there is the room.
My problem is that the taco is a sealed unit and I would have the cut the back off to get inside to see if there is the space on the inside to fit the display.
Does anyone have a dead taco they could open up and have a look? Maybe some pictures?

So looking for a dead tacho that I can pull apart

Are you sure you have the right sensor and gauge combo? WB-EGO sensors usually need a driver, but offer (as the name implies) a wide range of accurate reading that can be displayed on a bar gauge; NB-EGO sensors are only accurate at stoich, so the info presented by the bar gauge isn't particularly true or useful...

DonTZ125 wrote:Are you sure you have the right sensor and gauge combo? WB-EGO sensors usually need a driver, but offer (as the name implies) a wide range of accurate reading that can be displayed on a bar gauge; NB-EGO sensors are only accurate at stoich, so the info presented by the bar gauge isn't particularly true or useful...

The Jaycar kit has quite a bit of lee way hence it has a bar graph the hassle is that with just ONE sensor reading all four cylinders it is just best guess to some extent. I was told by another Ozzy that the Jaycar used in conjunction with an infrared temp guage for outside reading of individual pipes helps pin point what cylinder is doing what.

He balanced the carbs by our (home made tune up set up) then took the bike out for a run to get her warmed up thoroughly then used the readings off the EGO.

Jaycar do a exhaust temp reader too.

What i have been looking to do is to hook up a sensor in each pipe to one Jaycar black box but have an electronic switcher that :-
a} will strobe the cylinders say every 5 sec for Temperature
b} identify which cylinder it is looking at (ie 7 seg led read out)
c} read the Oxy sensor for that same pipe
d} Have a manual (as opposed to auto above) way of looking at individual cylinders for tuning

At least while it is strobing you would be able to see what the mixture is like under load.

Of course you could also add a throttle position sensor and log A - C at the same time to say a pen drive. :-}

Let us know how you get on as you are not alone in your thinking albeit somewhat jet lagged at present

Narrowband sensors give a fairly good indication of rich or lean, but only a limited how rich or lean. There are two types of narrow bands sensors (Zirconia more common and the less common Titania) so you have to be careful. All you need is a multimeter to read them. The Zirconia sensor puts out up to 1VDC, depending on how rich or lean the mixture is. The titania will also put out some small voltage but it is the resistance change that measures the mixture. This confused the S@#* out of me with one of the sensors i was given as the readings went all over the place.

Narrowbands come with up to 4 wires
1 wire: sender only
2 wire: sender and neutral
3 wire: sender and 2 heater wires
4 wire: sender, neutral and 2 heater wires

The 4 wire is the best narrowband as you can have the sensor warmed up and will work straight away.

Wideband sensors have either 5 or 6 wires They need a 5V applied to them to get a reading, which alternates between 1-5v depending on the mixture.

I've now got an innovate wideband O2 sensor setup and these work really well. If you ever come to Canberra I can have a look at your mixture with this.

These were some of the sites i looked at when playing around with the sensors:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor
http://www.picoauto.com/applications/lambda-sensor.html
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/o2meter/
http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive ... 00127.html
http://alflash.com.ua/o2calif.htm
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/o ... country=US
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf

Dru,
Just picked this up, when i get a better more stable comms set up I will add those links to a WIKI section on O2 sensors .
Thanks for that
Y_G