FZRSupport: the FZROnline Archive

Hi Guys,
Just joined the site and hoping that someone out there can help me get life back into my bike.
I have an FZR 400 that will not spark whatsoever. I went out on the bike three weeks ago and everything was fine. Went to start it last weekend and it was dead.Started stripping it down to investigate and have come to a stop. The wires leading into the coils are showing 12volts, the ohms test across the HT leads are showing 13000ohms. The voltage from the stator on the 3 large white wires give a reading of 4v when cranking the engine. I've bridged the side stand circuit and the clutch switch anddon't know where to go next...can you help??
Cheers
Fieldy

is it all the plugs that wont spark

Hi, yeah , not a spark from all four, which I don't understand as the coil check indicates correct readings

i think you have a primary and secondary winding in the coil but im not sure i could almost swear theres more to checking them but im not sure i havent had a problem with mine so i havent gotten into them it would seem weird for them to both go bad at the same time are all the connectors clean

what about the coil pick up are the connectors clean on that to

everything looks clean, can't work it out. Probably need to start buying components to start the elimination process, but don't know where to start first.

Ive been chasing a no spark problem for a while now and have learned a few things the hard way. Check the primary AND secondary coils for your ignition. My primaries tested good, but the secondaries were shot. Also check your main relay, after I replaced everything else, I still wasnt getting a spark and it turns out it was a single diode in the relay keeping it from starting. The relay needed to be replaced. That diode only keeps the system from sparking, but still allows the fuel pump to come on and to do all the other things the main relay does, it just wont spark.

once I get the spark back I'll be looking at a front end conversion...what have you used YZF??

what checks can I do for the relay?

i used the yzf600r

Dont know if it is the same for the 400 as the 600, but this is the process to test on the 600. You just check continuity between 2 posts.

http://tjldesign.net/FZR%20Manual/FZR600Chap8pt1.pdf

See page 8-19 at the bottom f the page.

I used a 03 R1 front end on my FZR.

Fieldy wrote:Hi Guys,
Just joined the site and hoping that someone out there can help me get life back into my bike.
I have an FZR 400 that will not spark whatsoever. I went out on the bike three weeks ago and everything was fine. Went to start it last weekend and it was dead.Started stripping it down to investigate and have come to a stop. The wires leading into the coils are showing 12volts, the ohms test across the HT leads are showing 13000ohms. The voltage from the stator on the 3 large white wires give a reading of 4v when cranking the engine. I've bridged the side stand circuit and the clutch switch anddon't know where to go next...can you help??
Cheers
Fieldy

a) stator has NOTHING to do with ignition. Stop chasing that wild goose.

b) The most likely 'gone yesterday, here today' fault in ignition is the 'KILL' switch.

Go to this:
http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... opic=36296

Chapter 8 section 1. Start on page 8-16 and work thru it. You'll find you problem if you don't ASSUME anything is good...just go thru the procedure-assume everything is at fault until proven good.

(and I know that is for a 600 but the switchgear and ign. wiring is the same stuff)

Reelrazor the link to the web page didn't work do you have any other links?

Checked through the link that haro504 sent and heres the results; primary coil check 2.4, secondary coil check 12.7, main switch is good, ignition switch is good, neutral switch is good, stand switch is good. Again voltage into coils at 12+ v and reading from stator 4v per wire? Tried the relay test but a little unsure, checked sky blue to blue and yellow using 1 ohm rating and got nothing, switched it to 20k ohm rating and got a reading. Do you you think this is where I should start with replacing components?

Cheers

Fieldy wrote:Reelrazor the link to the web page didn't work do you have any other links?

Checked through the link that haro504 sent and heres the results; primary coil check 2.4, secondary coil check 12.7, main switch is good, ignition switch is good, neutral switch is good, stand switch is good. Again voltage into coils at 12+ v and reading from stator 4v per wire? Tried the relay test but a little unsure, checked sky blue to blue and yellow using 1 ohm rating and got nothing, switched it to 20k ohm rating and got a reading. Do you you think this is where I should start with replacing components?

Try the link again. It works from this end.

That relay test should get you 'OL' (which would be bad relay) or a nice continuity reading(which would be good relay).

Did you check the pickup coil? That is the red/white and black/white TWO WIRE connector from the stator lead(it should read 80-120ohms and vary when you slowly turn the flywheel timing bump past the pickup). The three white AC wires from the stator are all about battery charging.....have NOTHING to do with ignition.

Reelrazor you might just have helped solve the problem...I was getting a bit pissed off with all the testing so I went to do the ohms check on the two wires you mentioned from the coil pick. I jammed the probes in a bit more aggressively than I should have and got a good reading, so just out of curiousity I turned the engine over to look for variance, and all four HT leads started sparking. So it was probably a bad connection???? or just a miracle??? Anyway, going to start putting bits back on and will keep you posted when she fires up

Reelrazor / haro504
as you may be aware I'm in the UK and most of the bikes are restricted. on the air intake side of the carbs there are plastic sliders that seem to open the more the bike is revved. do you think these are restrictors?