So the bike was bogging before because I had it very Lean, which when switched to rich completely cleared that up but while lean and still with rich, if you ride the bike for like 2min and pull in the clutch or even ride in like first gear (moving) it will idle or sit around 4K and never drop. The bike will idle fine from cold with choke but as soon as it moves a bit it gets stuck at 4K, and with it being basically straight piped because of the exhaust its extremely annoying. Also if i adjust the idle screw itll just drop right down and die.
Another quick question, after richening it up, the bike takes much longer to start. Usually, i'd hit the starter and it'd run for about 1.5sec before firing right up, but now it takes a lot longer and has a very gradual start shown in video here ( https://youtu.be/pqWASKzm12A ). Could this be only because the richness?
Last question, is having a 'whine" noise normal when speed increases? (not RPM)
High/Non Dropping Idle
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High/Non Dropping Idle
Thanks,
ASnyder
ASnyder
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Re: High/Non Dropping Idle
The whine could be a new chain and sprockets, if that's what you put on then it will settle down when all the edges round of a bit ... a few hundred miles.
Take it to a dyno.
Take it to a dyno.
Don't read everything you believe
FZR400RR 3TJ Bimota SB6
FZR400RR 3TJ Bimota SB6
Re: High/Non Dropping Idle
What air filter(s) are you running? That could be the answer to both questions.
My initial reaction to a high idle would be fuel starvation but it's really impossible to tell without doing some more checks.
Pulling a plug isn't always an easy option on these bikes but if you can it could give you some clues.
Have you had the carbs out at all?
How about the fuel pump?
Good luck with it man, this kind of issue can be a real pain in the backside!
My initial reaction to a high idle would be fuel starvation but it's really impossible to tell without doing some more checks.
Pulling a plug isn't always an easy option on these bikes but if you can it could give you some clues.
Have you had the carbs out at all?
How about the fuel pump?
Good luck with it man, this kind of issue can be a real pain in the backside!
Re: High/Non Dropping Idle
Pods, but I found out a fuel air mixture screw wasnt screwed in as the spring had 0 tension. So I swapped them and did a bit of adjustment and then turned down my idle and now it idles just about 1k and when hot around 2.1-2.4k.venari wrote:What air filter(s) are you running? That could be the answer to both questions.
My initial reaction to a high idle would be fuel starvation but it's really impossible to tell without doing some more checks.
Pulling a plug isn't always an easy option on these bikes but if you can it could give you some clues.
Have you had the carbs out at all?
How about the fuel pump?
Good luck with it man, this kind of issue can be a real pain in the backside!
I have yet to check plugs and carbs have been out many many many times. Fuel pump is good.
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Thanks,
ASnyder
ASnyder
Re: High/Non Dropping Idle
A new issue I seem to be having is right below 6k up to close to 8k I seem to have a slight deadzone where it feels like I have little power there unless I crank the throttle more.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Thanks,
ASnyder
ASnyder
Re: High/Non Dropping Idle
That's either needles or slides, or both. Lift the slides with a finger (engine off), checking to make sure they move freely, top to bottom. Ovalled nozzles will cause a rich condition; issing or degraded o-rings at the vacuum ports under the slide caps will affect the slide lifting.
1989 3LN1 FZR250R, currently stock.
TTR Ignition Systems
TCI Repair and Ignition Transistor Upgrade
VRR Adaptor Harness
YZF600 TCI Adaptor
Running Light Fuse Carrier
TTR Ignition Systems
TCI Repair and Ignition Transistor Upgrade
VRR Adaptor Harness
YZF600 TCI Adaptor
Running Light Fuse Carrier
Re: High/Non Dropping Idle
Check the screws on the top of the carbs are properly tightened.
I had a similar issue, turned out I had been too cautious tightening the brass screws (because I didn't have the correct driver) and they were slightly loose which caused the vacuum to fail.
Whip the airbox off, start up the bike and pull the accelerator. Then you can watch the slides and see if they all lift at the same time.
I had a similar issue, turned out I had been too cautious tightening the brass screws (because I didn't have the correct driver) and they were slightly loose which caused the vacuum to fail.
Whip the airbox off, start up the bike and pull the accelerator. Then you can watch the slides and see if they all lift at the same time.