do a complete service whats the best to buy 3en2

[fzrowner1]

hello maybe a really silly question but getting service spark plugs oil change carbs cleaned and was wondering like whats the best oil best plugs ect. also what else would be good to check? as having a good friend good mcanic (hyabusa turbo owner) and what else would be good to get done to make her run sweet hes taking her for 3 days im just asking formyself more then anything as want to learn it all myself cheers people

[fzrowner1]

and does anyone know what plug size they take aswell cheers

[GreyImport]

I posted links to the manual for the 400 in your thread here

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10157


......I suggest u download them and read all of it.......it should answer most of your service questions and what to look for.

[fzrowner1]

everything seems to be different for the 3en2 theres no manual for that one exact if you get me? cheers

[willandrip]

Plugs=NGK CR8E-gap 30thou. CR9E if raced /thrashed !!!!!
Dont be tempted to waste good money on Brisk or other top of the range plugs-no significant advantage !!!
Tried it.!!!
Use combination of 1WG Genesis and 3TJ manuals.
Aftermarket air filters on bay perfectly adequate = <£10.
Do not be tempted to use cheap oil filter though-use gen.
No English manual available although I have a copy of Factory supplement but in Japanese but it has all tolerances/ settings I require
£16 delivered to UK =WEBIKE JAPAN=took 10 days .Sweet.
Some clown on bay=Helmetspro wants £40 for a tatty used one=F*** him !!!! cheeky bast***.
I posted up a parts manual on 400 greybike forum=front page under manuals-some pages missing but only 1 of 2 in existance online !!!!
Any good quality 10/40 mineral or semi will do -careful on additives in semi.!!!!!
Definately NO fully syn or semi with the "recycling logo" (3 arrows in circle) unless that is you wish major clutch slippage which I doubt.
IF and ONLY if you have access to Oxy/acet torch and are COMPETANT;remove exup valve in headers and service graphite bushes with copperslip/nuclear grease.
N.B THE AMOUNT WHO HAVE TRIED THIS AND MADE A HASH OF IT WITHOUT THE TWO ABOVE ARE LEGENDARY>
Adjust and (ordinary) grease exup cables.You can advance by 4mm for more torque if you wish but on std road bike effect is negligable.
Different on race spec though !!!
Check g/box sprocket and remove/ refit nut (32mm) when your man is at it as the run of the mill owner struggles with this when replacement c/s is due.
If bike running sweet leave carbs alone except for balance.
Pull forks and refill (these are 41mm) with 525cc or 90mm airgap (no springs & fully compressed) 10w or 15w if you want a slower valving response (most use this as a workround for weak front springs !!!!!)
Wash out legs 2x before re-oiling and watch the ally /brass particles come out !!!!!!
Fit new seals at same time if at all suspect.
Service all calipers PROPERLY>Im not talking just pushing pistons back here!!!!!
Split/pull seals and thoroughly clean behind in seal grooves. before refit.
If you have oxy heat /undo header studs and copperslip. If not=DONT you'll snap one !!!
Thats about it=takes me 5hrs/5 coffees /10 tabs.(but I do this on bikes most days!!!)
3 days is total nut/bolt refurb time !!!!!

[willandrip]

Replace fuel filter=pattern @£5 adequate.
lubricate gear change & brake lever pivots
(got sidetracked there)
ENSURE R/R is PROPERLY EARTHED VIA EXTRA EARTH TO FIXING If NOT ALREADY DONE.Its infront of battery box,and probably has been upgraded by now!!!.If not be prepared,its a weak point.
Start looking for a rear tyre TODAY= they cost more than 25% of price of the bike if you have to buy at full price from a tyre dealer.I often buy a wheel with a very good tyre on (£40) and scrap wheel to pay for carriage 140/70/18 or 150/60/18 fit and are £110 new + carriage. BT 90 Battlax are good but try to match front.
Drop forks 5-10mm through yokes for faster steering,fit blue spots & T-Ace master,do R6 shock conversion with 138 mm bones,do 520x ring 15 or 16/47 conversion, WURTH progressive springs upgrade-tell me when to stop !!!
Your bike only made one year 89.=88 3en1 slightly different.
Or steetfighter it like some joker has just done to an 87 SP2 TK (one of 300 left in existance)!!!!!!!

[CA3en2]

Hello willandrip, Thanks for expertise but I got a quick question. Is the supplementary manual worth it to purchase for 3en2? I been eyeing it at webike in japan.

[HybridSport600]

always use an NGk plug in a jappanes bike from 91 or older...nothing else, and stay away from those newer platinum and "e" plugs. NGK irradium is great for the newer bikes. I have included this "Oil Analysis" for your reference read it all and make the best decision based on your climate and average climate temp. I use the rotella t in the white jug. Im in the midwest also, but is a good round about starting point for all.

Engine oil
Executive summary: The commercial grade oils are clearly superior to the mass market oils. For the best protection in your bike or car, use Shell Rotella Synthetic, available at Wal-Mart in blue containers for $13 / gallon. For the best petroleum oil you can buy, get Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300, or Chevron Delo 400, about $7 / gallon at any auto parts store. On the back of most oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. All XXw-20 and XXw-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle. 10w-40 oils should not be used in a motorcycle that runs the engine oil through the transmission. Don't buy any oil additives like STP or Slick-50. They have modifiers that will cause "wet" clutch slippage..
I use Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 in my FZR600 and DL650.
The Recommended Synthetic Oils

Shell Rotella
Synthetic
5w-40 Delvac 1
Synthetic
5w-40 Mobil-1 SUV/Truck
Synthetic
5w-40 AMSOil AMF
Synthetic
10w-40 Golden Spectro
Synthetic
10w-50 Motul 5100
Synthetic
10w-40 Mobil-1
Synthetic
15w-50 Mobil-1 MX4T
Synthetic
10w-40
The best synthetics are: (in no particular order)
• Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 (blue container, not white), $13 / gallon at Wal-Mart.
• Mobil Delvac-1 5w-40 (grey container, not black), $27 / gallon at Petro stations, $20 / gallon at Farm and Fleet.
• Mobil-1 SUV 5w-40, about $5 / qt anywhere.
• AMSOil AMF 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil, about $6 / qt.
• Golden Spectro Supreme, (no price).
• Motul 5100 Ester, (no price).
Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows.
For temperatures below -40, I strongly recommend either Mobil-1 0w-30 or the Canadian Shell 0w-40 Rotella. At these temperatures, your car is your life. Using cheap or incorrect oil is risking your life.
For temperatures below -55c, -65f, stay home. Really.
The Recommended Petroleum Oils

Chevron Delo 400
15w-40 Delvac 1300
15w-40 Shell Rotella
15w-40
The best petroleum oils are: (in no particular order)
• Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 (blue container) $7 / gallon at any auto parts store, $34 / 6 gallons at Costco.
• Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40 (black container) $6 / gallon at any auto parts store, $21/ 4 gallons at Sam's Club.
• Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 (white container) $7 / gallon at Wall-Mart or any auto parts store, $34 / 6 gallons at Sam's Club.
If you live in another country, you'll have to do a bit of research to decide on an oil. Generally, any oil certified for use in a late model Volkswagon or Mercedes turbo diesel is a good choice. Another good idea is to go to a truck stop and ask the truckers about brands. Rotella is marketed all over the world, but in other countries it's called Rotella or Rimola or Helix Ultra, and the formulation may be a bit different, depending on local climate and preferences. It will likely also be a lot more expensive than it is here.

[willandrip]

Hello willandrip, Thanks for expertise but I got a quick question. Is the supplementary manual worth it to purchase for 3en2? I been eyeing it at webike in japan.

Not unless your really into the more technical aspects,
I would only use it for torque figures and wiring routing aspects and other info for getting a wreck into concourse condition.
I am used to technical manuals and am able to use via the diagrams and figures.
unless you can decipher Japanese I would not recommend it to you.
It is a supplement to readily available English Yamaha 1Wg manual.
You would be better asking as you have done on here =many have the info you require in their heads .
Hope this clarifies; Bill.

[fzrowner1]

sorry im really not 2 good at this on ebay now looking for a NGK CR8E plug and there coming up saying there for 125's and ninga 250's and that is that the same or am i looking at totally the wrong thing cheers

[fzrowner1]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZR-40 ... 41647b4183

is that oil anygood? sorry this is gna be my first proper service want to get every bit spot on cheers well im only paying and watching this time! as bike passed mot with about 6 holes in exhaust were checint whole thing to make sure road worthy! cheers

[SouthendChris]

NGK CR8E plugs are correct. Sellers will list them for loads of different bikes because...they fit loads of bikes

You could even fit the twin electrode CR8EK plug if you want, for a more reliable spark.

In **my** personal opinion Motul oil is not good stuff. A main dealer put some in my 2010 GSX650F at it's 8000mile/2yr service. I was doing a Euro trip to spain so wanted it done. Never felt right afterwards and gave the bike a really notchy gear change and the clutch bite point changed I'm sure. I changed it the minute I got back for Silkolene. Feels nearer to before but not all the way. I wont have Motul near any of my bikes now. P*ssed me off as I was thinking about that when I should have been enjoying the views not working around a now notchy gearbox....

Try these people http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270817027616

Oil is such a moot question. Bikes are so different and we use them for different things in different weathers. One man's meat.......as they say.

Cheapest CR8E plugs I have found is http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/cr8e-spark-plug.html

Chris

[fzrbrandon]

Regarding the plugs - Autolite 4303s are an acceptable (and less expensive) alternative to the NGKs.

[fzrowner1]

Does anyone know what size oil filter?? I'm going to buy one from k&n cheers

[SouthendChris]

KN-303 for cannister filters and KN-144 for element type oil filters I believe.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200842967186

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200835824343

Chris